Jump to content

Recommended Posts

And this doesn't even include all of it!

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just showing off, but I figured it would be appreciated here! The X-T1s I use for work, two for stills and two for my stop-motion wedding films. All of the lenses are used for work, excluding the 18-55mm. The two Instax 210s are for our wedding photo booth, the SP-1 is to print out shots after the wedding to give to the couple on the same day. The mini 90 is for dance floor pics.

 

The only cameras that I use for my personal work are the X100T, the Instax 500AF (great camera) and the newly arrived X-Pro1 that I got for a steal to have a play with. I'm playing with the 18-55mm on it at the moment.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You will be pleased with the 18-55, it's really a nice kit lens, much better than what I am used to on the Nikon side.

 

As for the SP-1 printer, I have been mulling around the idea of getting one for either work or pleasure but still not certain about it. Can you tell me how greedy it is toward the batteries ? 

I tend to travel light, packing my 18-135 along the 27 and 35 lenses, that covers up pretty much all my needs, thus having an extra piece of equipement that would need to use batteries and thus extras isn't that appealing but on the other hand being able to just hand out a picture that was taken a couple of mins ago does sound great.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The SP-1 is a battery hog, I think I got about 60 images from my first set. Given the batteries are expensive, I purchased a cable that powers the SP-1 from my phone backup battery. Works perfectly. Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-in-5V-External-Power-Cable-Cord-Lead-For-Fuji-Fujifilm-Instax-SHARE-SP-1-SP1-/361034606418

Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, it's not that bad, I tried them and didn't liked them mostly because you have to wear a freaking belt, which I hate to do, thus not my style.

 

But for those "lighter" cameras, it's not too bad stress wise. Provided you don't start running around, but for casual walking, it's sufficient enough and won't be risking damaging anything.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, it's not that bad, I tried them and didn't liked them mostly because you have to wear a freaking belt, which I hate to do, thus not my style.

 

But for those "lighter" cameras, it's not too bad stress wise. Provided you don't start running around, but for casual walking, it's sufficient enough and won't be risking damaging anything.

 

I regularly consider the idea (on paid assignments I typically wear not just a belt but Steroid one))… and quickly discard it for aforementioned reasons. If only someone made an Arca-compatible belt clamp…  :rolleyes:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Zack Arias suggests [...]

 

Funny you would mention his name, Zack Arias is among my most favorite ProTogs right next of Benjamin Von Wong.

 

Zack's advice helped me greatly to pick my gear along the lenses, I still refer to his blog posts when wondering what I should be getting next.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny you would mention his name, Zack Arias is among my most favorite ProTogs right next of Benjamin Von Wong.

 

Zack's advice helped me greatly to pick my gear along the lenses, I still refer to his blog posts when wondering what I should be getting next.

 

I really like his work also!  Also influenced me somewhat into making the switch to Fuji.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Zack was the photographer I followed getting both the Spiperpro and the S-P1 cable. I also got his ONA bag and I've been very happy with every purchase. Re. stresses on the tripod mount, I don't think so. This system (albeit in the bigger size) even works with full size pro DSLRs. I won't be losing any sleep.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 Have you checked out PeakDesign's solution? https://peakdesign.com/store/?c=clips

 

Looks very interesting, thanks! However, it seems that their system is only compatible with their own Arca-compatible plates. You can mount their plate on your Arca head, but you cannot use your own, for example, RRS L-bracket.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I regularly consider the idea (on paid assignments I typically wear not just a belt but Steroid one))… and quickly discard it for aforementioned reasons. If only someone made an Arca-compatible belt clamp…  :rolleyes:

I also have an arca compatible clamp for my cameras with arca-Swiss plates. It's a small clamp I found on eBay, the post gets screwed into it, and I attach the clamp to the L side of the bracket. Works a treat and would resolve your concerns.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 Have you checked out PeakDesign's solution? https://peakdesign.com/store/?c=clips

 

Oh I love the stuff they have at Peak Design, I am heavily considering getting their new Kickstarter for that new bag, it looks really well done.

 

Plus, it's less noticeable by thieves than my Billingham, which is a much welcomed thing if I have to travel with more gears.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • All three of my bodies (X-E2, X-T4, GFX100S II) have shoot without lenses enabled and they have all had it set since I bought them.  No harm in it at all. Just remember to set the focal length when you fit a manual lens with no electronics otherwise the IBIS (if you have it) goes nuts. I regularly use vintage film lenses from Minolta, Zeiss, Mamiya, Rollei and others on my X mounts along with more modern manual focus stuff from TTArtisans. I also use Nikon AF-S lenses with a Fringer so the world is your oyster! Vintage lenses can be an absolute bargain too - For example the Zeiss 135 f/35 in M42 is as cheap as chips and very sharp as is the excellent Minolta 35-70 Macro (which is also rebadged Leica). 
    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
×
×
  • Create New...