When focus stacking an object one does not always know how many frames are required.
I thought the best solution was to tether the camera with my laptop and Capture One, take a certain number of frames, say 20, review the last frame on my laptop and if required add another 20 frames until the desired depth of field is reached. Unfortunately as i found out, after the first set of frames the camera resets the focus point to the first frame. That means the following additional sets all have the same focus starting point.
Is there a way around it? It is quite annoying if you take 100 frames or more and notice afterwards that you need some additional ones and have to start all over again. it is a waste of time.
Has nobody a suggestion?
I recently picked up the x-t30 after finding the Sony X100 Mark 7 point and shoot was a bit soft. I don’t know much about photography, but I love taking pics of flowers, family, pets, and travel. I realized that my x-t30 refused to take macros, so I got the mcex-16 to aid in that. I tried auto, manual, everything under the sun (I think), to try and take pics of my new African violet blooms. But my camera simply won’t budge when I press down on the shutter button. What am I doing wrong? Or is the Mcex-16 broken (it did come in a banged up box)? Also, I’m pairing it with a 18-55mm Fujinon lens, which several people were doing in the reviews for the extension.
Thank you for checking, I have just observed the same behavior with the 35mm f/2 - X-S10 with v2.10 chooses 1/100s. I guess I will use the specific minimum shutter speed or simply force myself to use the M mode more.
This is my first post. Hope this hasn't been covered before. I have something I'm trying to figure out on my x100v.
I typically have my camera in natural live view with "Preview Exposure" off because I don't like seeing my exposure settings reflected in the image in the EVF. However, it seems that, in this setup, the live histogram no longer adjusts based on my exposure settings...
Is there any way to get the histogram to show results based on what the resulting image will be without having the EVF brighten/darken based on exposure settings? With "preview exposure" on, I find it hard to compose-- especially in certain situations when trying to protect the HL's.
Thanks very much!
Hi all,Second post here would appreciate the input. I just purchased an X-T3 and X-H1.The EVFs on paper are meant to be the same with same refresh rates when in boost mode.The sizes are also meant to be almost exactly the same at 0.50 inches X-T3 and 0.48 inches X-H1 with the same resolution.However the X-H1 EVF feels smaller (bigger black border around the edges) and not as clear. It also gives me eye strain after just a few minutes. (I have adjusted diopter). It feels like its further away if that makes sense?Has anyone else noticed a difference between the EVFs when using them side by side because on paper they are meant to be the same. Perhaps its just this particular X-H1.Thanks,