Jump to content

X-T1 FW 4.0 BETA: I have it and share my findings soon ;)

Patrick FR

By Patrick FR
in Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 366
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FX Admin
FX Admin

No problem, I'm sure you wanted the best for the community - thanks for that!   Sorry if I'm a little bit paranoid, but I'd like to avoid a shitstorm „Fuji X Forum spreads virus“   Andreas

flysurfer
flysurfer

F4 had to be announced before the X-T10 to avoid a shitstorm of epic proportions. Fuji knows very well that many of their customers are quite unreasonable and complain about everything, not only the w

Tor M
Tor M

Hi, I've been playing with the beta firmware on my X-T1 together with my XF50-140mm at my daughter's soccer tournament this weekend. I also stumbled into a local MTB race when I was picking up my seco

Posted Images

kim Enthusiast

kim

Posted
Posted

Low light AF is also better, locking quickly on at F2.8 ISO 6400 1/20 with the XF16-55 F2.8WR

 

Still don't think it's any faster to lock on then before FW4 but it is much better in lower light. Perhaps someone who has two X-T1's can test this to satisfy those who need to know. 

Tracking is very fast and mostly accurate[ish] - might have been me not use to it yet - but I am comparing it to a 5D3 so probably a bit unfair. I'll test it out on some lycra louts tomorrow morning. I've found no bugs yet. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
rollypolly Apprentice

rollypolly

Posted
Posted
Just finished doing some quick tests with various lenses (10-24, 14, 23, 27, 35, Zeiss 50, 55-200 and 56) and I'm  :) . However, I did come across a lighting situation where the camera struggled to focus with the 56mm. Below is an image of a djembe drum (situated 4' from where I snapped the shot) that gave the 56mm fits. But on the next image of the paint cans (about 14' away) the AF snapped into focus almost instantaneously. Seems like surface brightness is effecting phase detection.
 

Drum

Paint

 

Cheers!

Rolly

Link to post
Share on other sites
Biuti Chile Rookie

Biuti Chile

Posted
Posted

Here are the ranges for the various shutter modes in the T setting:

 

ES - 1" to 1/32000

MS - 30" to 1/4000

ES+MS - 30" to 1/32000

 

AE bracketing still +/- 1 EV  :angry: . Someone at Fuji must hate HDR...

 

Cheers!

Rolly

 

Thanks Rolly!!!!!!, really great news for me. I like to shoot manual, and the top dial is not as handy as use the front/thumb command dial to change settings without taking the eyes off the viewfinder, even more critical when using the battery grip.

 

and yeah, unbelievable the bracketing castration on Fuji... similar to not using face detection AF when using the back button focus on first firmwares.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Macro Explorer

Macro

Posted
Posted

AE bracketing still +/- 1 EV  :angry: . Someone at Fuji must hate HDR...

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Surely they fixed this and just forgot to list it with the other updates.

Link to post
Share on other sites
windandoak Newbie

windandoak

Posted
Posted

Thanks to all who shared with me. Fw installed! Tested 14mm in very dim lighting and focus was lightening fast! Used the 3x3 zone focus. Can't wait to try the 23, 56 and 18-135 tomorrow morning! This doesn't seem like a beta to me. Even the framing lines are thinner as stated. Looks legit. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
windandoak Newbie

windandoak

Posted
Posted

Just one more thing, I used to use single point AF exclusively, but I must say this new zone focusing is much faster and very accurate. Better than some of the dslrs that I've used. Most of the time I avoid it because it usually locks on random things that I don't want. This seems a lot smarter. I think this is a huge win for Fuji. I wonder if it's faster than the new sony a7rii. I would certainly want to see that test comparison. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Pedro Marquez
      Angled tether cable for GFX 50S

      By Pedro Marquez · Posted

      I can recommend this one from Mathorn brand: https://mathorn.com/en/tethering-cables/tethering-5m-2/mtc-531/ It works nice with my GFX50s - see the video  
    • Greybeard
      100S Long Write Times

      By Greybeard · Posted

      Probably this: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx100s/menu_shooting/image_quality_setting/#clarity
    • BIGOAK
      100S Long Write Times

      By BIGOAK · Posted

      so if i'm shooting uncompressed 16-bit RAW files it takes a significant amount of time to write to card. Got the high end UHS II cards, and this does not happen with burst shooting, only single frame shots. what setting am i missing that causes this to happen?
    • Chas
      X-T4 accept external timecode?

      By Chas · Posted

      The Tentacle Sync Timecode tool is the one I tried. I couldn't get it to work. But that is probably my fault, not the software. I seemed to get a file, but I couldn't turn it into anything meaningful. 
    • jerryy
      GFX 100s not connecting to Mac via USB-C

      By jerryy · Posted

      I am glad to read you are able to get this up and running. Pretty much as long as you connect the camera and turn it on and wait a few moments for the computer to register the connection, you can then use Image Capture (which actually is a very decent program with a lot of options for transferring images from cameras to the computer) or Lightroom or other programs to move the images to your library. There are some drawbacks; connecting to the computer while it is in sleep mode will waste your time, the connection will not get recognized— you will have to unplug the camera, wake the computer and start over. Trying to connect while the screen saver is running may work, it may not, often not. If the computer goes into screen saver mode while the camera is connected and sitting idle, it usually stays connected when coming back out of screen saver, but if the computer mputer goes into sleep mode, the connection gets dropped and you have to unplug it and start over. I suggested having the camera turned off while connecting, this is to lower the possibility of static electricity discharges frying either the camera or the computer or both. A lot of times you can connect while the camera is turned on, but not always, sometimes you have to unplug, turn it off, reconnect and turn it back on. A lot of this comes from Apple’s approaches towards keeping USB devices from hijacking your computer, some is just hubris and some is from the vagaries of chance. p.s. Your laptop should be able to connect to the camera.
×
×
  • Create New...