Jump to content

Recommended Posts

When I use my X-T2 in program mode (with aperture and shutter speed both on A) the camera seems to prioritise faster shutter speed over smaller apertures by default. I'm sure that works for some people but I'd prefer it to be the other way round. Does anyone else think a setting that lets us choose between those two options would be a useful addition to the camera? 

 

The current behaviour wouldn't be so bad if the program shift could be configured in one third, two thirds or full stop increments. It currently takes three movements of the command dial to shift the camera-selected program combination a full stop one way of another. Letting us specify the shift for each single movement of the dial would speed up the process.

Edited by Jellicle
Link to post
Share on other sites

using any professional camera in program mode is like driving a formula 1 with an automatic gearbox.

 

The whole point of using a camera like the X-T2 is to be in control. I don’t shoot manual because it is simply too slow for what I do but if I want the camera to prioritize aperture then I put it into Aperture priority automatism, read the shutter speed and adjust accordingly the aperture ( if the outcome isn’t favorable) or (and increasingly so these days since the incredible performance with high ISO) the ISO.

 

Whichever program you use you will always have to modify because the camera will always make choices that you wouldn’t appreciate, so, if you like aperture to be more significant, choose Aperture priority.

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't get it... if you have a specific requirement of the aperture... why not just use aperture priority? I'm not familiar with all the CaNikon settings - is this something they offer?

 

Not sure I understand the need to change the program shift so rapidly in full stops either. What situations could have you needing to so rapidly change the shift?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't get it... if you have a specific requirement of the aperture... why not just use aperture priority? I'm not familiar with all the CaNikon settings - is this something they offer?

Not sure I understand the need to change the program shift so rapidly in full stops either. What situations could have you needing to so rapidly change the shift?

I don't believe this was a setting in any of my Canon cameras. I switched away from them about 2 years ago completely so I cannot check, but I don't recall this being available. Maybe it is a setting in some point and shoots or M4/3 cameras. I find aperture priority to be extremely fast to change, so I am with you.
Link to post
Share on other sites

For 40 years I've used aperture priority as the basis for my exposures. Now, as I do more street photography I'm finding it convenient to let the camera decide both settings - it's faster and I can concentrate more on the subject and less on the camera settings. That works for maybe 70% of the photographs I take, but when I do want to change a setting, it's almost always the aperture I want to change and I usually want it to be smaller.

On my Pentax K5 I notice that given the same scene the program settings deliver smaller apertures (and slower shutter speeds) by default. A friend who uses Canons tells me the same thing, compared to his X-T2.

Program shift may not make sense to you, but for my purposes it does make sense for me.

 
 
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
    • I bought a manual lens over xmas and it took me a while to find the "shutter w/o lens" function in the menu settings.  So far I haven't found a way to either put that on the Q menu or marry that setting to one of the 4 custom modes.   Am I missing something? Is there a problem if I just leave that setting enabled even when the OEM auto lens is in place? tia
×
×
  • Create New...