steviewonder

I'm looking at my Fuji 100-400mm lens right now and can assure you it has a 77mm filter thread. Who on earth claimed it was 82mm?

It would be helpful if you indicated what aperture you are using and where in the frame you are focusing.

While many folks talk about the magic of the f/1.4 lenses, they both (23 and 35) need an update. They are heavier, slower to focus and more expensive than the f/2.0 lenses. If you stop them down a bit, there is no discernible difference in IQ between the f/1.4 and f/2.0 lenses. I prefer lighter and faster focusing. For landscapes, it depends on your POV; I shoot both wide (10-24 mm) and long to compress hills and mountains (100-400 mm). I have the 18-55 but love the 16-55 f/2.8 despite the lack of OIS. The 56 mm is very nice for portraits but slow focusing and not as effective for street photography.

I would recommend one of the f2 lenses (23 or 35) as they focus quite fast. The 23 and 35 mm 1.4 lenses have beautiful bokeh but are heavier, more expensive and slow focusing. The 56 mm lens is great for portraits but is not a good street lens as it is also slow. You need lots of light to shoot at nighttime and the traditional point of view for street photography is 35 mm (which is 23 mm on a cropped sensor).

If you focus somewhat into the scene at f/16 your DOF will provide sharpness closer to you (1/3) and away from you (2/3). I think 2 or 3 shots for landscape is adequate. Its macro stuff that benefits most from this feature, where 20 or more shots are needed..

If non-Fuji, then Tamron and Sigma both make 150-600 mm lenses.

The Fuji 50-140 is perfect for sports and weddings while the Fuji 100-400 is for wildlife.

Are you using MS or ES? Banding is known to occur with the electronic shutter, particularly in certain lighting situations. I have not heard of it occurring with the mechanical shutter.

I don't think so. Great for portraits but I'd use the 50-140 or 100-400 for sports.

I used aperture priority on my Nikon D800 and on my XT-2 most of the time. The exception is when shooting wildlife or sports. If you want creative control, as others above have posted, get off program mode!

This is not unique to Fuji. All cameras with APS-C sensors have a "multiplication" factor as the sensor is smaller than those on full-frame cameras, whose sensors are the same as the 35 mm standard. With Nikon, it is 1.5 times the lens (e.g. a 50 mm lens on a D7100 is equivalent to 75 mm full frame); with Canon its a 1.6 factor for their APS-C lenses (50 mm is equivalent to 80 mm full frame). You can't have a 85 mm lens be 85 mm equivalent unless you have a full frame camera. Make sense?

Which iPhone do you have? It won't work with older ones. like the iPhone 4.

It is more solid than my Nikon 50 mm f/1.8 lens. The 35 mm f/2 is a lovely lens.

I use back button focusing with the af-l button and the shutter button is only for taking the photo. I am almost always in "C" mode so I can recompose easily with BB focusing without the shutter messing things up. I would never go back to shutter focusing and using the shutter button to focus defeats the purpose of BB focusing.

There are often diffraction problems when the lens is closed down too much. It is often best to shut down at least one step from the maximum. There is another important consideration in depth of field, and that is where you focus. In general, twice as much is in focus in the area beyond your focal point as in the area closer to you. What that means, is that you focus one third into your frame. That is not one third into the real distance in miles or kilometres, but one third into the photo you are framing in Live View (which BTW gives more accurate focusing). There are hyperfocal calculators galore available as apps, but if you frame your photo well (always the number one consideration), use a tripod and remote release, use a higher aperture (f/11, 13, 16 or 18) and focus one third into your frame, you're on the right track. I tried to upload some samples but for some reason LR won't let me export a 1000 kb image. I have some Palouse landscape photos on my flickr account, generally taken at f/11. https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenlustig/

I just bought a Pluto Trigger and the app for that does everything you can imagine (HDR, IR Trigger, sound or noise trigger, bulb ramping, lightening trigger, simple shutter, etc.). Haven't had a chance to go through most options, but happy so far. The only limitation is fast shutter for HDR, but the company tells me it is a Fuji limitation and not theirs. http://www.plutotrigger.com/?afmc=9j

I just bought a Pluto Trigger which allows you to control this on an XT-2 from a smart phone (android or iOS) or an iPad.

Bought the grip and best investment yet. The camera now feels right in my hand and I can put in my tripod ball head. I always leave it on the camera.

From members of my camera club who specialize in shooting dance and ballet, they tell me that the Sony 6300 or 6500 is terrific in low light and high ISO. One member switched from Nikon to the Sony and another switched from Canon to the Sony. The Sony 6500 gets glowing reviews for an aps-c sensor.

When I moved from the Nikon D7000 to the D800 that was exactly my experience; minimum shutter speed had to be increased and only the best glass would do b/c the D800 shows all flaws. On the other hand, boy can you crop those files. quote name="Adam Woodhouse" post="37636" timestamp="1478894309"]Very odd. I have shot 4 weddings with my XT2 and some high school football. Images are razer sharp when I nail focus and don't have camera shake. I have found in going from XT1 to XT2 (as I found the same when I went from 12mp Nikon to 24mp Nikon) that it is much easier to have a slightly soft image due to camera shake because the greater pixel density of the same size sensor will be less forgiving with camera shake at same focal lengths. This was a common problem people that jumped on the Nikon D800 band-wagon when it first came out. Many didn't do their homework and learned (for some a costly lesson) that they can't hand hold that camera at the lower shutter speeds like they use to on their previous lower MP cameras. Nikon's public response was "the new D800 forces you to be a better photographer". LOL There was a ton of buzz about it because so many people noticed it. The new Canon 50mp have addressed this in their hardware/software. The greater the pix density, the more noticeable camera shake (even when it is very little) appears. I'm not saying that is the cause (particularly if manual focus works perfect every time and AF does not) ... I'm saying I've seen something similar at another time and that was the cause back then.

Tethered shooting firmware for the XT-2 coming tomorrow.

I was there over 30 years ago. The animals there have few predators and were easy to get close to. The land iguanas literally walked over my feet while the marine iguanas are busy sunning themselves on the rocks. Blue footed boobies were also not a problem to get close to. I think you'll be fine with the shorter but faster lens and bringing a TC. The 100-400 starts off at 150 mm equivalence and that may be too tight; I like to minimize changing lenses when travelling so I'd go with the 40-150.

I'm ordering expert shield as well (crystal clear rather than anti-glare).

I'm waiting for the Metz mecablitz m400 (should be available soon).

The Fuji cam remote app does not work with my XT-2 and my iPad (iOS 10). I've been to my dealer to see if I was doing something wrong and I've written Fuji. They need an app firmware update.