Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I wouldn’t put any money (or wait) on a X-E3 with the same toys as the top models. I’d buy a secondhand X-T1.

 

“ better an egg today than a hen tomorrow” because the hen might never be there.

 

 

 

 

My “wondering" was rhetorical, of course it is zone focussing.

 

this has worked for every photographer in the past and although digital photography is more unforgiving when it comes to motion blur, we have the benefit od setting the ISO levels much higher than anyone ever could in the past.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My “wondering" was rhetorical, of course it is zone focussing.

 

this has worked for every photographer in the past and although digital photography is more unforgiving when it comes to motion blur, we have the benefit od setting the ISO levels much higher than anyone ever could in the past.

 

So was my suggestion for zone focusing.  

 

An "old" hand like you.... ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, young whipper snapper. We manual focused while walking barefoot to school, five miles and uphill each way in the snow.

 

That brought back memories. Walking in tropical torrential rain, ankle high mud water along the colonial settlements. Let's not talk about weather sealing.....or the lack of.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, it has been decided!!!! I just ordered the X-T2 + 18-55mm  :blink: husband maybe kinda hate me now but he will get over it  B) Extra lens is off the table for now but thats ok i am happy. (unless i buy one when in Japan like sneaky sneaky for a amazing price)

Edited by Ron1978
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, it has been decided!!!! I just ordered the X-T2 + 18-55mm  :blink: husband maybe kinda hate me now but he will get over it  B) Extra lens is off the table for now but thats ok i am happy. (unless i buy one when in Japan like sneaky sneaky for a amazing price)

 

Congrats! You'll love it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The x-t1 is an EXCELLENT camera, especially if you're a "Newbie."  Try to find one used, and take tons of photos over the next year. Then, if you feel you must, upgrade to XT2.  I'm a pro... have 2 xt-1s and a bunch of lenses.  I'm going to upgrade to the newer body because the larger files will in fact be welcome, especially when it comes to printing double-page magazine spreads, or cropping a vertical out of a horizontal (blame art directors for this, not me!).

 

You can put the money you save toward one of Fuji's super-sharp better lenses.

 

 

my two cents! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I thought about second hand. But somehow I am weird with electronics and prefer them new. And tbh the price off the X-t1 new is 2 high. Besides I already ordered the X-T2 and I couldn't do a cancel now and buy a X-t1 my mind can't deal with that anymore now. Lol

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

To be honest I'm thinking the same! I belive xt2 is made for coverting sport photography as well as videography. Although 24 mp sensor is better that 16 but not much different on result if you know how to set your camera! High quality on doboul A2 or even lorger print is possible with xt1. On the other hand since fuji on xt1 presenting features of photography and videography together with some new ones like touchscreen after x70, vs xt1 after years corrections and developing system, personally i cannot trust xt2 atleast for 6 to 12 months, to upgrade all possible bugs and confusions.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
    • I bought a manual lens over xmas and it took me a while to find the "shutter w/o lens" function in the menu settings.  So far I haven't found a way to either put that on the Q menu or marry that setting to one of the 4 custom modes.   Am I missing something? Is there a problem if I just leave that setting enabled even when the OEM auto lens is in place? tia
    • It appears that Apple now (at last!) fully supports FujiFilm Lossless and Compressed RAF files. In the latest updates of MacOS Tahoe 26.2, iOS 26 and iPadOS 26 compressed files are supported in Finder/Files and the Photos app. Good news for those of us with Macs and iPads.
×
×
  • Create New...