Jump to content

Defocusing in manual mode, when camera goes to sleep


Recommended Posts

There is one thing very annoying on the X-Pro2. When I set the camera to manual focus and I have to wait a while, the camera goes to sleep mode. After waking up from sleep mode (by pressing the shutter button), the camera has changed the focus. So if you had your focus set correct before, the image will be out of focus after waking up. Why can't Fuji correct this with a firmware upgrade? I just killed a whole photo session for this reason, as I was not aware of the changed focus.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, this drives macro guys nuts. Probably not going to change. Pretty sure the only way to avoid this is to keep the camera awake or use manual focus lenses. (Perhaps the Fuji 14 and 23 are exceptions? In manual mode, of course.) I'm pretty comfortable using manual focus lenses on a Fuji - focussing is easier and more accurate than any DSLR I've ever used. The Samyang/Rokinons - the latest ones designed for APS-C are quite amazing and reasonably priced. Lot's of solid macro lenses in the 90-180 range out there. And there are millions of Leica and Leica copies to play wth.

Edited by Max_Elmar
Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a problem for me too, shooting landscapes i tend to focus the scene with autofocus, compose and lock down the tripod - then pull the focus ring on the lens back and flip the camera to manual to shoot.

 

When it resets focus it's a real bummer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am really surprised by this; is it an X-Pro2 specific problem?

 

Judging from the number of people -- er, um -- discussing it in other threads, I think it's across the board. My X-E1 & X-E2 both do this. I have heard X-T1 people complain about it. I would imagine Fuji could add a "focus memory" function, but I understand why they wouldn't want to change the basic behavior. The lens should return to a "safe" position when the camera sleeps or shuts down. Could be a power management thing with image review. Might have something to do with the linear motors in some of the lenses. They would to have to be powered up even to hold focus position. A stabilized lens would need to remain powered up to hold the framing. 

Edited by Max_Elmar
Link to post
Share on other sites

Judging from the number of people -- er, um -- discussing it in other threads, I think it's across the board. My X-E1 & X-E2 both do this. I have heard X-T1 people complain about it.

That is interesting, because my X-Pro1 does not do such a thing with the 18mm or the 35mm F/1.4 lenses. They make a whirring sound when switched off, but stay in the same focus position.

 

And frankly, it would be unacceptable to me. Manual focus means manual focus. So I don't care where the helicoid or motor is when I switch it off; it should better be in the same position when I switch it on again.

 

Especially with the OVF, it would be an extremely annoying bug if the focus moved on its own. At least on a high quality prime; I could accept focus shift when zooming on a zoom lens.

 

Edit: I actually don't know what happens when the camera goes in sleep mode. I usually turn it off between shots.

(checked it ... the original Fuji primes do not defocus when the X-Pro1 goes in sleep mode)

Edited by johant
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I was just doing some experiments with my X-T1 and using the 60 macro in manual mode.

 

When the camera switches off the lens retracts BUT when you switch it back on it goes to the exact same place where it was before.

 

Looks like the original Fujinon primes implemented it this way, while the later primes and zooms do not return to the MF position. There's probably a good reason for that, but I don't like it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • FYI Update - I just learned that the Zoom F6 & F3 recorder/mixers also synch to the UltraSynch Blue over bluetooth. I am planning to record 32bit float on the F6 and it will have frame accurate matching time-code with my two-XH2S' and one XH2.
    • Hopefully these will help some. For quite a while now Apple has put stuff into their operating system so that you cannot yourself open the connected camera’s card and see the images, you have to use their or third party software to do that.
    • Thanks for the instructions:  I was doing up to 3 successfully but can't wait to get home and try  4 and 5 and report back. Cheers, John
    • Okay, just for completeness sake: 1.     The camera’s menu connection setting is USB CARD READER. 2.    The computer is turned on, booted and nicely operational. 3..    With the camera turned off, connect the camera to the computer using a known-to-be-good USB C data plus power cable (a data only cable should work as well, a power only cable will not work). 3.   The camera’s charging light may turn on. Turn the camera on. The back screen probably will show the USB symbol as well as the USB letters. 4.    Start up the Image Capture app and see if the camera’s name appears in the devices list. 5.    In the Apple menu, select ‘About This Mac’, click on the ‘More Info…’ button, and on the right hand side of the window that opens, at its bottom is a button called ‘System Report…’, click on it. A new window should open, the left hand side has collapsible dropdown listings, the first is called “Hardware’, within it is the USB listing, select that. The right side pane should give you listings of all the USB devices connected at that moment, one of them should say something like USB PTP Camera. Does either 4. or 5. work?
    • Thanks, Yes I knew about the USB issue in newer Macs and macOS but that is why I tested it with High Sierra as well. Also the fact that every other camera easily connects via USB direct with the camera - definitely points out the fact that it is a FUJI specific problem.  Furthermore - I remember being able to direct connect early last year. I rarely take the Cards OUT of the camera  these days. The weird thing is I can connect my iPhone 15 via USB-C to 100s and pull files directly - puzzling. Problem is FUJI rarely listens to anyone.    
×
×
  • Create New...