Jump to content

Newbie - need help with x-t1 accessories


Recommended Posts

I am a newbie and recently started using x-t1 a few months ago. Its the first camera i have owned thats not a cheap (<200) point and shoot. Need your suggestions in keeping costs down when it comes to filters -

 

 

I have a fuji F/2 35mm WR prime lens that accepts 43mm filters. I bought a polarizing filter so that i can capture blue skies (rather than a white out) while shooting outside in bright summer days.The problem is, 43 mm filters are hard to find. And probably won't they wont fit other fuji lenses that i will eventually buy. Next one i am looking for is the 27mm f/2. I don't want to have to buy a new filter for every lens i buy !

 

Someone mentioned that i should get a converter/ adapter which will allow me to buy 50mm filters (readily available) and use that on all my lenses. But a quick search on amazon didn't help me with that.

 

Could you advise about the existence and cost/ quality benefit of such converters ? 

What are they called converter/ adapter ?

What size filters would you recommend buying which can be used across most Fuji lenses ?

 

 

thanks for the help,

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

They are called step-up or step-down rings. This is what they look like: http://www.mini-max.sk/redukcie-a-redukcne-kruzky/redukcie-step-up. e. g. 43 to 49mm.

Thanks, that's very helpful.

Do you recommend using these step up, step down rings? Wondering if there is any drawback to using these instead of dedicated filters. Also, is there a way to find out the filter size required for different Fuji lenses ?

Thanks again

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are welcome. Look at the specs of the lenses (e.g. on the Fujifilm site) that you have and that you might like to buy in the future (or lenses from your previous cameras if you think you would use them adapted, for example if you have a macro lens that you like - you would not be able to use AF with adapted lenses but esp with a macro lens that would not matter anyway). Write down the diameters and you will see if you can save some cash with the step-up rings. Downsides ? Maybe some degree of inconvenience. A ring is cheap, so why not try it. Of course, you can use a bigger filter with a smaller lens but not vice versa obviously. Brgds

Link to post
Share on other sites

I usually buy a filter for the largest lens I own, or intend to own, then buy Step Up Rings to allow it to fit all my other lenses.  Most of mine are either 58 or 62.

 

I don't use lens hoods, except on my 55-200 when I'm shooting events outdoors.

Link to post
Share on other sites

... I have a fuji F/2 35mm WR prime lens that accepts 43mm filters. I bought a polarizing filter ... The problem is, 43 mm filters  ... probably won't ... fit other fuji lenses that i will eventually buy ... I don't want to have to buy a new filter for every lens i buy ! ...

My suggestion may not help, but here it is.  I suggest that considering the price of your new lenses, buying an additional filters for each lens is a relatively minor expense.  This is particularly true if you use "lens protector" filters to protect the front element.

 

Of course if you are a confirmed user of polarizing filters, the situation changes since these are among the most expensive filters to employ.  In that case buying the largest filter you will need and using step-down adapters may be viable.  However most if not all of the effects available with polarizers are also available in post-processing if you shoot "raw-plus-jpeg" routinely.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...