Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I am a user of the Xpro2 with 35m 2.0 and the 18-55m and in a lot of cases faces of people are not really sharp. I am using face detect or single focus on the eyes. Does some one has a alternative of similar experience? What kind of settings are you using?

All other kind of images (buildings) are very sharp.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you sure you are shooting at a short enough shutter speed? Also using OIS is not always recommended if the shutter speed is quick enough or you are using a tripos might even be detrimental to the result.

 

Do consider the fact that high ISO settings are not compromising the quality of your shot as much your movements or the ones of your subject would do.

 

In other words, when in doubt put your ISO at 800 or 1600 and shoot that way, you will have a better result than having a go with a 1/30 sec. at 200 ISO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be a focus or depth of field or a shutter speed issue.  Post a picture an example of a not sharp portrait.   

 

Like milando said, it's better to use high iso/high shutter speed and get a sharp image than low iso/low shutter speed and a possible a blurry image.  You can correct noise but you can't correct a blurred image.

 
Link to post
Share on other sites

takes all sorts.

 

Never heard of a lens or a camera which was too sharp for me

 

You can easily use softer “ classic” lenses or lens adapters which allow you to tilt the focal plane.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I am a user of the Xpro2 with 35m 2.0 and the 18-55m and in a lot of cases faces of people are not really sharp. I am using face detect or single focus on the eyes. Does some one has a alternative of similar experience? What kind of settings are you using?

All other kind of images (buildings) are very sharp.

 

Post one of your photos, with the settings on which you took it?

What are you doing in processing, as well? If you're using lightroom (especially an older version) it may be giving your trouble with your fine detail.

 

I attached a screenshot at 200% in Photo Ninja

ISO 400

35mm f/2 @ f/2

1/150 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by RadBadTad
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's another 100% crop with the 35 (color), and one from the 18-55 @55mm (Black and white)

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
    • I bought a manual lens over xmas and it took me a while to find the "shutter w/o lens" function in the menu settings.  So far I haven't found a way to either put that on the Q menu or marry that setting to one of the 4 custom modes.   Am I missing something? Is there a problem if I just leave that setting enabled even when the OEM auto lens is in place? tia
×
×
  • Create New...