Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Doesn't the PRO 2 camera power OFF automatically after a certain amount of idle time like 2 minutes or 5 minutes ?

 

In the Power Management menu, you can define Auto Power Off as 2 minutes or 5 minutes, like you said. There is also a third option to set Auto Power Off to "OFF". This means it will not turn off automatically.

Link to post
Share on other sites

In the Power Management menu, you can define Auto Power Off as 2 minutes or 5 minutes, like you said. There is also a third option to set Auto Power Off to "OFF". This means it will not turn off automatically.

 

Ahhh ... thank you for that little bit of info. Seems a waste of power for me since I ALWAY forget to turn my camera off. It's set to 2 minutes.

 

In answer to the heating up of the PRO 2. I haven't noticed any extraordinary heat, but then I don't do any long photo sessions like the pros do. .

Link to post
Share on other sites

I posted this last week in the thread regarding the "turn off turn on message". Since then contacted Fuji USA and was told to send the camera to them. The person said they are aware of the problem but they don't have a fix. When I asked what the remedy was the response they gave was they will send me a camera that does not have the issue. While I found that interesting I chose not to engage in a discussion. Taking the comments presented in this thread as well as the "turn off" thread, it appears there is a design issue. I've used several different brands during the past two years including a Canon 5D3, Sony A7ii, Sony A7Rii, and Nikon D750. These were with speedlights either on camera or with radio trigger. Had no heat issues and those cameras never shut down. At this point the X Pro 2 is neither pro nor non-pro but something less that will only perform in low demand situations that involve few actuations over a long period of time. Under these conditions it does produce great images. Love the look just cannot accept the performance.

 

Here is the other post:

 

experienced this error today with version 1.0. Tonight I did the update.

 

Background: had a studio shoot today with two models that totaled approximately 45 minutes. Lens was 35mm f2. Fast cards. Saved RAW and jpeg to same card (changed that tonight to save to separate cards). The total image count was 1080, so that should have been 540 shutter activations. It was set for single shots. Pre focus off. Face detection on

 

The error message first appeared after about 30 minutes, then happened twice more before the end of the session. Used a Paul C. Buff trigger for an Alienbee (worked great). Noticed that when the first error message appeared the camera was definitely warm on the bottom plate. Camera remained warm for the remainder of the time.

 

The was no problem restarting the camera, but the shooting flow was certainly interrupted.

 

Camera s/n 61A05706. It was delivered the day of release in the USA.

 

This shoot was an unexpected opportunity. I'm in the process of moving and my Nikon gear is in storage. Had it been a pre-planned session, I would have used the D750. The Fuji was intended for the trip and in that setting it performed as expected.

 

As others have stated, and assuming Fuji monitors this forum, there is an issue when the X Pro 2 is used in a situation involving stretches of constant shooting. Whatever the reason, it is up to them to recognize and correct it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used my XPRO-2 for a wedding. It went on for one hour before it shows white screen and then black screen and could not be turrned off. Basically my XPRO-2 is dead. The camera was unusually warm before it's dead, I thought it's because of the warming. 

Tried to pull out the battery, it turned off, but when I turned it on again ... it showed black screen and no button working.

 

Already tried to change several batteries and changed lenses and still not working.

I returned it to Fujifilm last week and still got no response.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have contacted botch retailer and Fujifilm helpdesk (in Netherlands/Germany). They both mentioned that is normal and is caused by the better performance of the X-Pro2. Found that to be a bit of a typical answer so I requested some more info and got the reply that due to the new processor's upgraded performance the camera can heat up more noticeably than the X-Pro1 because of the materials used in the camera (more metal (aluminium/magnesium?) instead of plastics) and that it in no way can cause damage to the camera.

I WAS tempted by the X-Pro2, but will wait it out to see if Fuji can address this and other noted problems. It seems Fuji thinks this tendency is "normal" because it occurs regularly. Hmmm ... In contrast, one could view it as "a problem that occurs regularly" (as a result of this higher performance camera not having sufficient heat dissipation). Don't get me wrong: it seems like a cool camera, and--of course--I hope it serves everyone well. (I, though, will be waiting to see how Fuji addresses this and other "normal problems.") Edited by ramosa
Link to post
Share on other sites

It was 87°F here 2 days ago and I did some photography with the X-Pro2. I noticed that the camera became fairly warm and a bit warmer than I would like. By that I mean I am thinking about a 95-100 degree day in the sun and would it become a problem? Summer is coming so something over the next 3 months I should have that question answered.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Deva:

Summer is around the bend. It's low 90's in the desert and so far the X-Pro2 doesn't get too warm. When it hits 110, we'll see how the camera holds up. Cameras that have passed the test in the past are 3-4 Nikon DLRS, Fuji X-T1 and Fuji X100-T.

Edited by quietlight
Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent review. Thanks for the thorough testing and conclusions. I am confident that Fuji will come up with a satisfactory solution, hopefully via firmware. Thanks, EyesUnclouded !

 

Thank you! It would be great if more users would contribute with their own real life use reports, both in these threads and in the comment section on the blog. I'm sure Fuji is watching such reactions and it would possibly help solve problems faster.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...