Jump to content

Recommended Posts


Disclaimer: it's just a speculation, I wonder how many users like me are out there...
I've been using X-T3 for 2+ years, enjoying its unbeatable ergonomics and customization options, and thinking what I would like to have (or not) in it.
So, I wish Fujifilm came up with some version of X-T3 II with more simple, streamlined design, that would be my ideal camera:
- no video functions at all. I don't care about video.
It would considerably simplify chipset/CPU design, make mainboard more compact (and overall camera size), maybe also lower energy consumption (longer battery life)
- a bit enlarged front grip part (at least +5 mm depth)
- no Exposure compensation wheel, it's just redundant in digital mirrorless cameras (ETTR, sensor saturation/SNR)
- no Exposure metering modes wheel (same as above), 'multi' works just fine
- no Shutter wheel (I use "T" mode only, with more granular speed control)
- flip-out screen like in X-T4
- a bit more extended dioptric correction range :(
- less cluttered menu:
    No JPEG functions and related 'effects' settings, RAW format only. I'd ditch ~80% of settings in "I.Q." menu.
    Keeping film simulations, they are neat.
- just 2 focusing modes, M and AF-C, can't think of any AF-S use case for myself, almost never used it.

- higher quality paint, more scratch-resistant :( (I have silver version)

Any fellow-thinkers?
   

Link to post
Share on other sites

You do realize you are wishing at cross purposes to your own wishes?

If you get rid of all of the jpeg stuff, that wipes out the film simulation as well — those are only applied to the embedded preview in the raw image (which is a jpg image) and the saved jpeg images. The raw image carries a note about which simulation was chosen, but that is so the raw convertors can apply it or ignore it as they choose, it is not applied wholesale to the raw image.

AF-S is the mainstay of landscape photographers that use auto-focus. Very few use AF-C to get those still images, actually AF-C is pretty close to movie/video mode which you are wanting to toss out.

T mode still needs a dial, are you really wanting a PSAM version of the X-T3?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote

If you get rid of all of the jpeg stuff, that wipes out the film simulation as well

I meant something different - I don't care how camera renders/embeds previews internally, I just don't want jpeg-related settings in menus, exposed as user options.

Quote

AF-S is the mainstay of landscape photographers that use auto-focus.

I use autofocus in M mode only, with AF+MF option (?), for landscapes as well. No issues.

Quote

actually AF-C is pretty close to movie/video mode which you are wanting to toss out.

I use AF-C occasionally for action (sports).

Quote

T mode still needs a dial

I use back dial.

Quote

are you really wanting a PSAM version of the X-T3?

No (and I don't see how it's related, to be honest).

Edited by syborg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Having switched to the X-S10/X-H2S combination the one thing I miss from the X-T3 is the tiltable rear screen - the only time I find any need to move the screen is for taking shots with the camera held down low or up high and that flippy screen just doesn't work well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2022 at 1:11 AM, jerryy said:

Ah, I think I understand. You are not proposing feature changes to make things better for photographers as a whole, you are just wanting something that deals with the stuff you find annoying.

That's funny.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...