Jump to content

M42 adapter - loose

arhetyp

By arhetyp
in Adapting lenses to Fuji X

 Share

Recommended Posts

arhetyp Newbie

arhetyp

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I am new to the vintage lenses topic and just purchased first M42 adapter from well known K&F Concept - Pro version.
The issue is it seems to be a bit loose while mounted to the X-T10.

Is that normal or it should perfectly fit?
Three very tiny screws are on the adapter - what are they designed for?

I will appreciate any you opinions on that.

Kind Regards,
Arek

Link to post
Share on other sites
Menno Dévee Newbie

Menno Dévee

Posted
Posted

Hi , I have the same with some K&F adapters, they wiggle a bit. But then I also have a Fujifilm lens that wiggles the same amount so I tought (hope) it's a normal margin. It does feel better when they sit tight. The one adapter I have from the brand Urth does fit tight.

Regarding the screws, that is not to adjust in case you were wondering.

 

Menno

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Astigmatism Enthusiast

Astigmatism

Posted
Posted

Are the screws there so you can rotate whatever you're mounting to put the right things (such as aperture or focus scale) on top? The M42 thread itself doesn't have a means to do that -- you screw the lens in and when it's tight, it's tight, no matter where it stops. Maybe you can fudge it a bit, but not a whole rotation's worth. Loosen the screws, orient your mounted lens the way it should be, tighten the screws.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Don Barar
      F-Log in DaVinci Resolve with MacBook Pro M1 Max

      By Don Barar · Posted

      HI Rufo, I have changed procedures.  I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node.  The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don
    • jerryy
      Trains (open thread)

      By jerryy · Posted

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, indiana - Kentucky, USA
    • Astigmatism
      Image Stabilisation

      By Astigmatism · Posted

      Interesting, and a bit subtle. I also think it'd be better to activate on a half press. But there seems to be good reasoning behind a number of other choices, so I wonder if there's a good reason behind this one and we're just not seeing it. To some degree IS goes on and off like AF does, but this is an exception, isn't it?
    • Heccie Thump
      Image Stabilisation

      By Heccie Thump · Posted

      I couldn't find my manual so downloaded a PDF copy and did some searching.  From p146 of the manual, regarding Shooting Only stabilisation: "Image stabilization enabled only when the shutter button is pressed halfway (focus mode C) or the shutter is released." So it appears that the camera is 'working as intended' and that in AF-S the stabilisation mechanism kicks in only as you release the shutter. I think I would prefer it to activate on a half press, like it does in AF-C.
    • jerryy
      Fuji Apps hijack exposure reading

      By jerryy · Posted

      Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …
×
×
  • Create New...