Jump to content

Recommended Posts

It's not really a sensor cleaning that is performed. What the camera does when this option is switched on, every time you switch on/off your camera there's an ultra sonic vibration that 'shakes' dust particles off the sensor. It's an ultrasonic sound pulse so to speak. The dust particles are not removed from or collected inside the camera, so essentially they can return. This option is not an alternative for incidental sensor cleaning using a swab and some cleaning gel (to be performed by an experienced service employee). Best is to avoid dust inside the camera: don't leave the mount exposed for more time than necessary to switch lenses. Don't touch the sensor and don't use a blower to remove dust from inside the camera (you just blow in more dust). 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I also switch off the camera before swapping lenses. Been doing this for years. Can’t remember where I learned to do this.

I just Googled it and the general consensus is that the sensor is ‘charged’ when camera is on and thus can attract dust - as in static electricity etc.

The other opinion was that as you twist the lens to remove you may risk electrical contacts shorting. I doubt this theory.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

LOL. It's not like a dust pan.  You won't see the dust collecting anywhere.  I've been shooting Fuji since 2012 and I've yet to have my sensor cleaned in any camera.  The auto sensor cleaner is a nice gimmick but in reality it's avoidance of dust, sand and other particles that will help keep the sensor clean.  I don't change lenses in sandy areas. In dusty areas I keep my camera opening pointed downward at all times and before I attach the lens to the camera I make sure the rear ring where the contacts are located on the lens itself are clean by rubbing my finger around it.  Then I make sure the rear element is not dusty.

That's about all the precautions I take.  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I have had to clean my x-t3 sensor a few times. A hand operated bulb blower is often all you need. Never use canned air. If any propellant gets onto the sensor you will not be able to remove it. Also they are too powerful. Sometimes there is a spot that needs wet cleaning. Anyone can do wet cleaning. Buy a kit from a reputable company and follow the instructions. The camera should be switched off unless it is a model with IBIS. In that case, switch the camera on. Switch IBIS off, switch to ES shutter and make sure rhat the power saving function is off and that your battery is not about to die. Only use very light pressure when moving the swab across the sensor.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

If your sensor still has dust spots after automatic cleaning, 
I highly recommend using the Sensor Swab kit by Photographic Solutions. 
It’s one of the most trusted tools for safely 
and effectively removing stubborn dust and smudges from your sensor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It seems you are dragging up old stuff that has been known for some time. It is stated in the specs the video is recorded in 10 bits: X-H2S @ 4:2:2 10-bit internal recording X-T4 @ 4:2:0 10-bit internal recording The 4:2:2 gives better color space results. The big video advantage for the X-H2S has been faster readout, being able to use external hdmi capture devices and 6K video capture. There is a fairly good video that has been around for a while discussing F-Log2 vs F-log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kDlhiEOAus p.s. Welcome to the forum.  
    • Is the X-H2S “dynamic range improvement” a myth? Since the release of the Fujifilm X-H2S, Fuji has heavily promoted: the sensor’s internal 14-bit readout, the new F-Log2 profile, and a supposedly tangible improvement in video dynamic range compared to previous generations (X-T4, X-S20, etc.). But when you look at actual laboratory measurements, the narrative starts to fall apart. What the numbers actually show (measured data, not marketing) Based on IMATEST / SNR-style measurements: X-H2S ≈ 12.2 stops at SNR=2 ≈ 13.6 stops at SNR=1 Measured in ProRes HQ, high native ISO (1250) X-T4 ≈ 11.8 stops at SNR=2 ≈ 13.4 stops at SNR=1 Measured in H.264 / H.265, lower native ISO (800) The real-world difference is about 0.2 to 0.4 stop, depending on the threshold used. This is nowhere near a generational leap. The core question: where did the 14-bit promise go? If the X-H2S sensor is truly read internally at 14-bit, a simple question arises: Why does this extra bit depth not translate into a measurable increase in usable dynamic range? Because: the final recorded signal is still 10-bit, read noise appears to cap the signal before those extra bits can matter, SNR curves remain very close to those of the X-T4. In short: 14-bit upstream, same ceiling downstream. And what about F-Log2? F-Log2 is supposed to: extend highlight latitude, better exploit the sensor signal. Yet in practice: measured dynamic range barely increases, what we mostly see is curve redistribution, not actual expansion, shadow noise rises earlier. This raises a legitimate concern: Are we just looking at a remapping of the same dynamic range, rather than a true physical gain? Provisional conclusion (but an uncomfortable one) Based on the available data: the X-H2S “dynamic range improvement” appears largely overstated, the 14-bit readout looks more like a theoretical talking point than a measurable benefit, F-Log2 seems primarily like a grading convenience, not a sensor-level breakthrough. Open but serious question Is the internal 14-bit sensor readout and F-Log2, in practice, a damp squib with no truly palpable impact on real-world video dynamic range? If anyone has: independent measurements showing otherwise, or a demonstrable gain beyond ~0.3 stop, I’m genuinely interested. But for now, the numbers simply do not support the narrative.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • nothing special, I thought the sky looked cool, handheld, unedited, 16-80 around F11.  Bay inland of Indian River, DE right after sunset.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Hello everyone, Recently, I've come across the very detailed videos from Edvard (@edvard2942 on YouTube) about Fujifilm autofocus performance. His tests highlight what he sees as a regression in AF fluidity and reliability starting from certain firmware updates, and that the best results aren't always with the latest versions. I'd love to start a discussion here to compile, based on your experiences and Edvard's tests, a kind of “best firmware list”for each body in terms of autofocus smoothness and reliability (especially in photo and video AF-C with older lenses). Here's a summary of what's already well-established from Edvard's analyses (feel free to correct or add details): • X-T3 Firmwares 3.00 / 3.30 are considered the best – smoothest AF, most natural transitions, fastest and most frequent lens motor adjustments. From firmware 4.00 onward (the one that aligned it with the X-T4), there's a clear loss of fluidity in micro-adjustments and quick distance changes. • X-T4 The AF from the initial firmware (~1.00) already uses the algorithm introduced on the X-T3 with 4.00. It's less smooth than the X-T3 on 3.xx, but generally stable. Later updates did not restore the older X-T3 smoothness. • X-H2S Very early firmware (around 1.03) is significantly better than later ones (3.xx, 5.xx, 6.xx, 7.xx), which degraded fluidity. However, even this best version remains below the X-T3 on 3.xx in terms of pure AF smoothness. I'd really like us to expand this list with other bodies (X-H2, X-T5, X-H1, X-Pro3, etc.). Which firmware gives the best AF according to you, or according to the Edvard videos you've seen? One specific question that's bugging me: Can we expect early X-T4 bodies (with factory/original firmware) to be as smooth as the X-T3 on firmware 3.xx? Or is the difference already there from launch? Thanks in advance for your feedback, any downgrade experiences, and tests with different firmwares and lenses. This could help a lot of people optimize their setup.
×
×
  • Create New...