Jump to content

How much difference does "in camera image stabilization" make?

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I am newer to digital photography, so I would appreciate your patience with me and my questions. My hands shake a little bit when holding objects.  I am wondering if, considering my situation, I should rule out the x-T30, even if I use it with Fuji Lenses with Image Stabilization built into them.  Is that enough for me or do you feel I really must have a camera with it also built into the camera itself? For me and my slight shake, is in in-camera image stabilization, nice to have or a must have?   I can currently afford the X-T30 and would like to get it, but if you advise me that, because of my minor shaking, I really should wait until I can afford the likes of the X-T4, that would be good to know.  Thank you, in advance for sharing your time and expertise.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello cup4sharks

I think your problem with IBIS will be mainly that it is quite expensive and I'm not sure you can compensate that with cheaper lenses (more on that below). If the X-T4 will include IBIS, it will be a more expensive camera than the XT-3 is. And of course a much more expensive camera than the X-T30 you look at. So if you "wait" for the X-T4, it's possible you'll wait for the "wrong" price range. I'm also pretty sure the X-T40, X-T50... won't have "physical" IBIS because of that for a long time.

But first you have to understand that camera IBIS is not the same like in-lens IS. IBIS does minimize the "flat" shaking on x, y axis and rolling. In-lens IS does minimize pitch and yaw. That's the reason why a XH-1 can combine both systems together. However, In-lens IS helps more for photos with long range lenses, while IBIS is generally helpful in movie situations. Facing that, I can imagine that in-lens image stabilization will help you more than IBIS. But I can't presume to be the judge of that, as I don't have that sort of problem. So the first advice I give you is: try to find out if you really need IBIS or if you have to buy IS lenses anyway. I can imagine you don't need both systems together, but as I said: how can I know that?!

Beside of that I'm pretty sure you need a more hefty camera. A X-T3 is a bigger camera which is less difficult to hold in the hands. If you buy a cheaper X-T30, I would recommend you to include a nice hand grip in your calculation.

If you have the time to wait, I would also set a watcher to the price of the X-H1. Rumors say it's not that of a success for Fuji and it is possible that they'll drop the price in a very foreseen future (it already dropped remarkable). If there really will be a X-T4 with IBIS released, I'm pretty sure X-H1 gets a rather hefty price drop if not even a sell-out. Saying that, the X-H1 wold get a true bargain in that situation.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

cup4sharks - Have you worked any on shooting technique to minimize the hand shake? I learned a very long time ago that deep breath-exhale-hold-SHOOT is a technique that worked well for me at photography, shooting firearms, shooting bow and arrow, bowling, and even hammering nails.

I just turned 66, and I can you with certainty I am not as steady as I once was, but I can still shoot 1/30 without OIS using this technique. My wife has the same issue as you - she has never been able to shoot a clear photo, and this is working for her now.   

I don't have a Fuji body with IBIS, but I have three lenses with OIS, and the extra latitude for still shots is significant. I don't shoot video, so I can't comment on that.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Having Fuji, Olympus and Sony, I would advise you to try an Olympus body: its IBIS technology is fantastic and would allow you to put that "extra-shake" behind your concerns. Or, if you really want to go Fuji, I guess you would be very happy with a 2nd-hand X-H1 (I had one and replaced it with an X-T3): it is heavier and the IBIS is also great. 

But I'd check the Olympus before anything...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

IBIS and lens OIS are absolutely wonderful to have but as Boessu mentioned, proper technique will take care of the need for IBIS.  Holding the camera correctly and when there is a heavy lens, holding the lens with one hand while shooting, arms in close to the body will stabilize any camera.  Then for shooting, keep your shutter speed fast enough to cover any shake you are introducing.  The 1/focal length rule is a solid starting point to compensate for any shake that you introduce.  IBIS and OIS allow you to more easily shoot at speeds slower than that BUT isn't absolutely needed to do so.  Cameras for decades have not had any stabilization in them and millions upon millions of pictures have been taken that are tack sharp without it.

Only two of my lens have OIS on them and I have never had IBIS in any body and I shoot weddings in low light all the time without any problems.  I also shoot wildlife with long lens' and also have no problem.  If I can do it, anyone can do it.  :)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By fchastel
      Hi all,
      I have an issue with triggering off camera flash since I updated the FW of my X-T3 to version 3.20. The flash is only being triggered about 8 out of 10 times, which is very distracting and annoying. I tried with two different flash brands (GODOX trigger + flash, Elinchrom trigger + flash) and see the same problem. I have used the same set-up for about 30 shootings (at ~1000 shots per shooting) last year and never had this issue. I could now observe it during the two shootings I had after I upgraded to 3.20.
      The issue doesn't immediately occur. During the first shooting, it happened after about 3 hours. During the second shooting, it happened after about 1 hour. I use the X-T3 with the vertical grip and 3 original NP-W126S batteries. I was suspecting a battery issue during the first shooting and therefore ensured that they were fully charged for the second shooting but it did not solve the issue.
      Does anyone have experienced a similar issue? 
      Thanks and cheers
    • By jufoso
      Hi guys, new Fuji-freak here!
      I bought yesterday X-T3 with the 18-55 lens and XF 50-140mm f2.8, both used.
      At first I was really impressed with both of them but soon I figured out that there's something strange with the 50-140 and autofocus. The problem occurs at the maximum 140mm focal lenght. The autofocus can't focus near. It will only work for longer distances (over 4-5 meters) even though the minimum focus distance should be 1 meter. Even a slight zoom out e.g. 138mm will make the autofocus work normally.
      All the settings are in "auto", I'm shooting in single shot mode and autofocus on single point. The problem occurs in every possible setup. Here's a video about the problem (I didn't find my stand so I had to use chair) [ignore the cat meowing] https://youtu.be/g8snv-60DBM
      Has anyone else had the same problem or should I return the lens?
    • By Prometheus8ight
      Hello! Getting on the long exposure(about 30 sec) this red pixels on my photos. On the more fast exposure it seems that there is less red dots. Is that normal or this is a warranty case? 
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content.
    • By Rivi1969
      I had a blast those days is rural China, amazing sceneries and amazing people. This shot was taken with my trusty XT3 and the 18-55mm zoom.
    • By 。。。DTB 。。。
      I created this slideshow of images that I took of a maiko walking around Miyagawacho, in Kyoto, this September. I edited all of the images in Capture One using Fujifilm's new film simulation, classic negative. When Fujifilm provides the X-T3 with classic negative via a future firmware update, I am sure it will be even better. However, I am liking the new film simulation already for street photos. What do you think of classic negative for your own photos?
      Fujifilm X-T3 , Canon EF 300mm f4L IS, Fringer EF-FX Pro ii 
  • Posts

    • Did you changed the setting of connection mode to “USB tether shooting auto“ as the latest user manual?  It is supposed to be working with DJI/ZY new gimbal with USB connection.  I also planned to buy crane m2 as light weight gimbal solution for x-t3 but not tested in the cam shop yet,  Would you help to try it out? 
    • First post, lets see if I can do this...   Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content.
    • I recently bought a second hand Fuji xc 15-45 power zoom lens from a reputable company to go with my Fuji x-m1. The lens made a constant humming/whirring. Do you think this is a fault with the lens, camera or is it normal? The noise wasn't the auto focus. It's now been returned. Not sure whether to replace like for like or any suggestions for a budget replacement.  The original xc 16-50 that came with the camera has broken, hence need for replacement.Thanks
    • Firmware 1.04. and yes I did try a long press
    • Hi  All, A month ago I put an order for XF10 (awaiting delivery and joining Fuji-user family). Today I found out from the shop that they can't get that anymore from Fuji as it has been discontinued.   I was offered X-A5 which I'm yet to check but the reason why I ordered XF10 was the size (and am happy with 18mm F2.8 lens). So I wonder if anybody can recommend pancake lens (MF is fine) which has around 18mm focal length, so the camera can still fit relatively easily in pockets, even if
  • Create New...