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davidmold

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Everything posted by davidmold

  1. Well, I'd love to buy an XE3, but since I, like most other Fuji fans, don't have any reason to buy an XE2s, then I guess there will never be an XE3. If this information is true.
  2. I have found my pocket to provide an excellent and convenient location for additional batteries.
  3. You could certainly do it with the Camera Remote app. But I take your point, it seems like it should be trivially easy to implement in camera. But perhaps it's not as easy as everyone thinks. It really depends on how bad the underlying software is, and without meeting the original developer of Fuji's OS and assessing his or her mental stability, we can only guess at that.
  4. Hardly baffling. Even in the very earliest days of photography, many photographers went to great lengths to attach time and place information to their plates and negatives. For those who think of photographs as documentary in any way, it's extremely useful - no?
  5. The only firmware update that would genuinely improve the X-T10 would be one that turns the drive dial into an ISO dial, along with a sticker you could download or purchase to place over it, with the ISO properly marked. That one simple change would turn it from the "little brother of the X-T1" into the best camera ever made.
  6. On this one: In fact, if you switch the aperture to A, you can use the rear command dial (or front if you prefer) to adjust the aperture, so you can control it all from the camera body if you want, and use it one handed, as long as you have A selected on the shutter dial.
  7. For point 3, the book is wrong, then. You can also get rid of the magnification by pressing the rear command dial button while keeping the shutter button half pressed to turn off the magnification in AF+MF mode after manually focusing.
  8. I guess you just mean you can't see the exposure indicator in the viewfinder. But the point is, you can still see the scene in the viewfinder, and know in your mind what the trade-offs are for the different ISO levels - and that is really how to gauge your exposure in manual. The meter reading is just what your camera thinks might work, but your eye and brain should be the real judge anyway - unless you're actually looking at a gray card. But if you want your ISO to just be set to the exposure that your camera thinks is right, rather than what your own brain tells you, then you don't need to use manual, and should leave it on Auto ISO. Another point to bear in mind is that you can see on your exposure meter how many stops you are away from the camera's idea of correct exposure before you launch the ISO menu. So if you check that first then you already know how many stops you need to move the ISO, and don't have to guess and check back.
  9. With Fuji you are in continual danger of taking a rather nice picture, whereas with other systems you spend so much time fiddling with your nice camera that the danger is averted.
  10. I didn't want to carry 2 cameras, and greatly prefer the image quality of the XF23, so that's what I bought, and I've been very pleased with it on my X-T10. But since everyone is very pleased with their own choices, that ain't worth much to you!
  11. You haven't mentioned white balance, that may be the key to this issue.
  12. I finally found a good use for this feature on the XT10, and it's been working well for me so I thought I'd share it here in case it helps anyone. What I did was to assign C1 to my standard auto ISO setting, C2 to ISO 200 and C3 to ISO 3200, and then assign the custom settings to a button. Because C1 gets selected first every time, it means pressing the button always drops you back into Auto ISO on a single press, which is very useful - you don't even need to look at the screen or menu. Then if you want manual ISO you can go low or high with a click or two, avoiding the fiddly ISO menu. I found the ISO menu is so long that it can take a while to get around it, and without this hack you can't drop back into Auto ISO quickly and easily. I also put a monochrome setting on C7, because I often use that and C7 is another slot you can get to fast when the custom settings are assigned to a button. So now I like this feature again, and it's really improved my control over the camera.
  13. My experience has been that manual focus is your friend in this situation - and that would let you keep using the zoom that you have.
  14. Well, you can autofocus with the focus ring pulled back if the camera is in autofocus mode. And this is also the solution to justintime99's puzzle, really, because in that mode you can manually focus (when AF+MF is ON), too. But only while the shutter button is half-pressed.
  15. 1. AF can be memorized with back button (AF-L) with the ability to press shutter without re-autofocusing Switch the camera to manual focus mode. You can now focus with the back button. If the lens has a clutch it must be in the forward position, and pull back for manual-only focus. 2. AF on shutter button Switch the camera to auto focus mode. 3. - Manual focus with ring. That clutch mecanism drives me nuts.. You can auto focus with manual adjust by leaving the camera in auto focus mode, but having the clutch ring pulled back. Half press the shutter, and the camera will focus. Keep the shutter half-pressed and you can manual focus.(you need to have AF+MF turned on in Autofocus settings, as you observed). I hope that helps.
  16. Admiring Light has a wonderful comparison of the 35mm f2 and 35mm f1.4 which shows image samples at different apertures, and importantly also different distances, and allows the reader to make up their own mind about the suitability of the two lenses for their particular needs. http://admiringlight.com/blog/fuji-35mm-f1-4-vs-fuji-35mm-f2/
  17. I think all this is explained in the, er, manual.
  18. Indeed. Nosegunner, I would heartily recommend that you stick an XF23 1.4 on your camera for a few weeks and then get back to us.
  19. I disagree with the premise that the XF23 is slow and produces only average results. Although the lens is large in comparison to some other Fuji lenses (though not when compared with most lenses of similar quality), I have found the autofocus to be nice and fast, and in my view the image quality from it is among the best of what the Fuji range can achieve. This view is also supported by the more technically oriented reviews. For example: http://admiringlight.com/blog/review-fujifilm-fujinon-xf-23mm-f1-4-r/3/ If you take a look at the Flickr pages for this lens, they contain some of the most beautiful images you'll see taken on any Fuji system, and while the X100T has advantages in terms of size and convenience, in my view the quality of its lens doesn't come close to the sheer beauty the XF23 has to offer. While the 27mm pancake lens is, well, a pancake, its performance is not poor *for a pancake lens*. The lens on the X100T is also a pancake lens, and so its performance is really very comparable with the 27mm, as has been demonstrated quite clearly by those who get excited about the numbers.
  20. Well then you should do it, it's a great lens.
  21. I use the 23mm 1.4 and the 35mm f/2 on my X-T10, and love them both. If you care about having a lighter, more conveniently sized lens then adding the 35mm f/2 makes sense, and if you hate the size and weight of the 23mm and prefer a longer focal length then selling it and buying the 35 f2 makes sense. But you're not going to be exactly sticking the camera in your pocket with either lens very easily, so it's possible to overstate the difference. As an X-T10 user, putting the 23 on the camera right after the 35 certainly does add some significant weight and changes the balance of the camera. However if, like me, you tend to hold the camera with two hands when you take your shot, it is really not a big deal, and is still rather more comfortable, much smaller, and considerably more appealing than my old DSLR.
  22. Jeremy's right. At first I thought these custom settings would be very useful, but as I mostly shoot raw, they are not helpful at all. Also, it gets very confusing since when you switch to one, you can't then switch back to how you had it set up before, you can only switch between custom settings, which I found especially problematic with the values I had set for Auto ISO.
  23. That's a really useful comparison, thank you. That f2 certainly is nice and sharp.
  24. Nice shot. If you like to take pictures like that, maybe you should get the 23mm 1.4, or perhaps the 18mm.
  25. I got one for my XT10, and it really looks good and feels well balanced on that little camera. It is a beautifully constructed lens. Even the hood is an extremely convenient and tiny addition that you can easily leave attached all the time.
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