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quincy

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Everything posted by quincy

  1. quincy
    Yeah right, sorry! I forgot about that because I configured it to "on when pressing" a long time ago and left it there.
  2. quincy
    The AF-L button on my X-T1 always works, no matter if the focus mode switch on the front of the camera is set to S C or M. But you have to keep it pressed if the switch is set to S or C to prevent the half-pressed shutter button from refocusing. So to the OP: You can choose single point AF (relocateable over the whole frame and resizable) You can set the AF-L button mode to AF-C in the menu When you set the focus mode switch on the front of your camera to "M", the focus function is removed from half-pressing the shutter, so only the AF-L button engages focusing.
  3. quincy
    Don't know about that. My Canon AE-1 Program and Canon T70 are nearly the same size as the X-T1, and the T70 almost weights the same, whereas all those DSLRs are very bulky and heavy in comparison. And the Df is the same size and weight as those DSLRs, but with the look of an SLR and mixed controls. However, as I said, have fun with it! If it's the right thing for you, that's great.
  4. quincy
    You could post the gear you want to sell in the "Classifieds" section. Would make it easier for prospective buyers, and you could probably sell them faster. Have fun with the Df! Great sensor, but I found the exterior and especially the controls to be a bit inconsistent and clumsy (and too bulky). Good camera nonetheless.
  5. quincy
    Really cool, thank you! At least with those image sizes, high ISO with low light seems to be absolutely no problem for the new sensor, and honestly, I can't even guess which of those are Nikon or Fuji. But this thread is not about gear and I don't want to derail it, therefore I'll leave it with that. So my compliments, I really like those images, composition, contrast, the right moment.
  6. quincy
    Fuji says it best: http://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_guide/point03.html tldr: it works exactly as supposed.
  7. quincy
    Is that Eric Fish in the second and third image? Anyway, very good shots! I love how you did just not clip his fingers in #2, but I like the contrast in #1 & #3 better. Can you tell us about ISO? Are those Acros(?) out of the camera, or did you process them yourself?
  8. quincy
    IS, autofocus, and aperture control. There are dumb adapters with a built in aperture, but that new aperture is in the wrong place, of course, and will cause vignetting. Also, it's not automatic, so you'll have to open it manually to focus, close it to take the image... uargh.
  9. quincy
    Thank You Patrick! I've added it to the list. They have some very nice images (12, 15, 16) and to me it looks better than the previous version, but it's still not really sharp wide open. I know that this is usual for those ultrafast lenses, but I hope the rumored Fuji 33/1 will be better (like the 56/1.2).
  10. quincy
    I just played around a bit, and I can get a black screen between the shots in two ways: - setting the camera to CL - if the camera can't acquire focus fast enough between two shots (and is set to focus priority). That's sad, but it's the way it is. And as you mentioned, it will get better with upcoming cameras. A workaround for #2 is to release the shutter and half-press it again. I think this is one of the compromises we have to make right now, to either have a responsive pure optical path but with a mirror, more bulk, weight and no exposure preview, or the mirrorless way with lag, but higher framerates. Let's hope future mirrorless cameras will overcome this issue.
  11. quincy
    What firmware do you use? My X-T1 does what you describe for the a6300: it shows the images taken, like a 8 fps slideshow.
  12. quincy
    I still like the lens, and I still like the background it produces: (it's ISO 2500 btw.)
  13. quincy
    Uhm... wow. Thank You, I'm humbled! I hope you found what you were searching for. about 2. : I really like Capture One for developing (Fuji) RAW files. But I don't use all those functions that Photoshop offers over Capture One (like layering multiple images, HDR, Panorama, etc.) And if I want to do that stuff, GIMP and Microsoft's Image Composite Editor are enough for me. So if you want to use Photoshop, you should probably take advantage of the Photoshop+Lightroom bundle. If you only want to develop RAW files, you could try the free trials of Capture One and Lightroom and compare them for yourself. I don't think there is still a relevant difference in output, so you should judge which workflow works better for you. about 3. : This is pretty personal, but if I were you (or if I were me and my X-T1 was gone), I'd get another X-T1 now, since we don't know when the X-T2 will be here. And without camera, you(/me) won't be able to take pictures.
  14. quincy
    How about producing great new stuff with the new camera before thinking about throwing it away? That's what I would do.
  15. quincy
    Medium is everything between 35 mm (36 mm x 24 mm) and large format (102 mm x 127 mm or 4" x 5"). The most used medium format film was 6x6 (60 mm x 60 mm). And 6x6 is what I would expect from a digital medium format camera.
  16. quincy
    Is it the same cap that's on the T1? Because there are replacement cap sets for all the T1 caps.
  17. quincy
    Now I'm happy that I didn't wait for 100-400+1.4xTC bundles to pop up around here (still none available).
  18. quincy
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1pTqc2Cd9o&t=217 this guy here (the same who told us about the correct aperture range of the 100-400 last year) is allowed to play around with it, and at about 3:53 he says "It's no mock-up, it really works"
  19. quincy
    posted them in Mike K's 100-400 thread I've seen news from the CP+: A working 2x TC. Does anyone know which lenses it will be compatible with? The same as the 1.4x TC?
  20. quincy

    Leica

    quincy replied to Alf's topic in General Discussion

    Well, the SL's Viewfinder is impressive!
  21. quincy
    The X-T1's viewfinder optics (like any (D)SLR's) create a virtual image of the EVF/focusing screen that appears to be at infinite distance when the diopter correction is set to zero. On most cameras, it is set to -1 by factory default, so the image appears to be 1 m away. Those without diopter adjustment are usually fixed at -1, too. (The X-T1's factory default is also -1) So by choosing correction for far vision, you still could use the X-T1's viewfinder by setting it to zero. You just have to find zero, because it's not marked. Choosing correction for near vision might also work, because the viewfinder's diopter correction has a pretty generous range of -4 to +2, but I'm not sure if it's enough. -4 means the virtual image appears to be 0.25 m away from your eye. You should talk to your ophthalmologist about it, he will know what lenses he will use.
  22. quincy
    I liked it from the first day, but now... It's beautiful from the inside! Thank You EddieX
  23. quincy
    I've heard many don't do TTL, but I think you won't need that for copying slides. Triggering the flash should work with any of those. Cactus say they can do TTL with Fuji, if you need it: http://www.cactus-image.com/v6.html But I guess that Safe-Sync is the more reasonable thing to buy anyway.
  24. quincy
    How about a wireless flash transceiver system? It would decouple your flash from your camera.
  25. quincy
    Fuji and Europe... If you go to the consumer electronics retail chains, they often have no fuji at all or just one X-M with the XC16-50 attached. One time I asked if I could have a look at other lenses. They told me "there are no other lenses" and tried to sell a non-Fuji bridge camera to me. Then, luckily I thought, someone told me about a camera store with no web presence that should have Fuji stuff, just 60 km from where I live. I drove there, and they really had Fuji cameras and lenses in stock. If you want to pay €200 more for EVERY lens, no bargaining possible, that's your way to go. I think purchasing online is the only reasonable alternative in Europe. Just order it, and if you don't like what you bought make use of the two-week return policy. But even there you'll usually pay Fuji's official retail price, while all other makes are on sale due to price war.
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