x-tc

Agreed. However I'm guessing you first has to be in playback mode before the trash button works. The dedicated trash button is kind of a waste imho. It would be better if it was muxed with something else that is not used in playback mode.

Gordon, You shot in manual but you don't find yourself mentioning the metering modes dial as a priority? Interesting. ISO dial remains useful if you know you are going to want to work with Raw and forcing ISO if you have DR mode set by default for jpegs.

Depend if lens are part of the consideration. Fuji has everyone beat for AF 1.5 cropped sensor lens. A6000 is at end of life cycle. So its price has come down a lot. It was at $650 for body /$800 kit upon release early 2014. The Nikon 5500 was announced 3 mo ago, at $899 body/$999 kit. It has come down, but is not cheaper yet than rumored x-t10 release price. If video was priority,, I wouldn't bother with Fuji compared to either Sony or Nikon. . AF remains to be seen as to how good it will be for action. All price elasticity being equal, I expect X-T10 to eventually be discounted by $200-300 a year or 1.5 yr from now when it's at the same point in its life cycle as A6000. In order for that to happen Fuji needs to blow out the remaining x-e2 stock first. Recall X-E2 was released at $999 body and is now discounted by $300.

its lens dependent. http://fujixsystem.blogspot.com/p/fuji-infrared-lens-tests.html

I didn't know that. very interesting. Danke.

Please be assured. Your position is well understood. It's ok not to get or like certain kinds of photography. Trying to talk people out of a lens because of this is a fools errand. Let it go.

I expected the release U.S. Price to be about what the X-e2 is now and then trend downward overtime. Making it cheaper than the x-e2 ever was. I expect sale price target to eventually reach $600 for the body, one year from now m The Canada price seems too low considering currents exchange rate. About $80 discount if you buy in Canada using US dollars.

just today our fellow forum member "dv." posted some photos with their Samyang 12/2. Lots of great examples of someone who knows how to use ultrawides for cool effects and not simply to "get it all in". I love what they did with the corners in many of the shots. Check out their thread. Very cool. Talk about leading your audience through the scene. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/169-samyang-12mm-f20-ncs-cs-x-mount/

ah.. got it. I agree. it is definitely a niche. One of my primary reasons for buying the lens. I love to get close and fill the corners at the wide end. but you are right. Its not for everyone. I am going to ref to Ken Rockwell here below. ;-) lol. For as much noise as he generates, he does have some signal once in a while. He gets UltraWide. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-to-use-ultra-wide-lenses.htm "Ultrawide lenses are the most difficult lenses to use well. Ultrawides are not for "getting it all in." Ultrawides are for getting yourself, and therefore the viewer, right smack into the middle of something. Ultrawides are for putting next to the muzzle of Dirty Harry's revolver to put it in your face. If you can't or won't get close, leave the ultrawide at home. Ultrawides rub the viewer's nose in your subject. Properly used, ultrawides grab your viewer and yank him into the middle of your situation. "

Yes, another name may be less confusing. Perhaps that is intentional. Don't know. I personally do not care. I like how they are running this site, much better than the other one. I can definitely tell the difference. For example, the admins and moderators here appear to be responsive, professional, and most importantly for me do not mix their own personal opinions with their moderation duties. Things get weird otherwise and personal bias tends to affect moderation. I hope this continues and moderators treat the forums as pure observers that keep the peace and respond to the needs of the forum members. Anyhow, it appears that this forum site is not just about Fuji related rumors. So I don't think your suggested name would have worked. The scope is much broader than that.

According to most reviews the only Fuji prime lens which is significantly better than the XF10-24 zoom in its focal range is the 23. The current market price of the 10-24 is the same as the 14. I think the fujivsfuji review does a good job at summarizing the pros for and con against other prime lens in the Fuji line up. http://www.fujivsfuji.com/10-24mm-f4-vs-primes/ to quote: "vs 23 prime: 23mmIf I was finding myself at 24mm more often than not, I would make a point of using the 23mm ƒ/1.4 more instead as this is probably the weakest portion of a zoom’s range. Then I’d probably end up shooting at ƒ/1.4 a lot more. The zoom is not an ideal option for a 35mm equivalent, but in a pinch, it works great and only pixel-peepers might be able to tell the difference. vs 18 prime: The 18mm ƒ/2 is optically inferior, but blissfully small and lightweight. Street and portrait shooters will want to opt for it, everyone else should stick with the zoom. vs 14 prime: I can’t even call this one. Size and weight might be the only deciding factor. The lenses are optically quite similar. wider than 14: Easy. Get the 10-24. It’s really not that much larger than the Zeiss (12mm prime), it’s sharper, has less distortion, and it’s wider. Plus it costs about the same. In my opinion, save for that 2-for-1 deal they had a little while ago, there is no reason to by the X-Mount Zeiss 12mm anymore. The bottom line is no matter what focal length you’re looking to cover, you’re sure to be pleased with what this zoom can do." Here is another one with pros and cons: "http://admiringlight.com/blog/review-fujifilm-fujinon-xf-10-24mm-f4-r-ois/3/ " Pros Well-built and solid lens with well damped zoom and focus rings Relatively light weight for its size Quite sharp, especially at the wide end of the zoom range, providing good resolution into the corners stopped down and excellent central sharpness at all apertures Excellent color and contrast throughout the zoom and aperture range Great control of chromatic aberrations for a wide-angle zoom High resistance to flare, especially at the wide end of the zoom range Good optical stabilizer allows for longer handholding Good control of distortion Quick and quiet autofocus Low vignetting Cons Large for a mirrorless lens Aperture ring is unmarked and has no hard stops, despite being a constant aperture zoom Autofocus can sometimes fail to lock on in dim light Busy bokeh (when you can create some blur) Expensive Fuji has created yet another very solid lens for the X-System. The 10-24mm provides a very useful focal range, covering everything from the extremely wide 10mm to a much more moderate wide-angle view at the 24mm end. Image quality is very high throughout, but especially at the wider end of the zoom, where the lens is simply outstanding. While it’s not going to best the truly excellent Fuji 14mm in this range, it really doesn’t end up too far off of that lofty standard of performance. Ultimately, this lens is about quality imaging and convenience. Rather than carrying two or three lenses to cover the wide-angle range, one can simply grab this one lens and get excellent images over a wide range of focal lengths. The image stabilizer and quick focus add even more of a reason to pick up this lens. At $999, the lens isn’t cheap, though it’s not a particularly out of line price compared to the competition. High quality ultra-wide f/4 zooms typically come in around the $700-850 mark, but few feature optical stabilization. If you are in the market for a versatile, high quality lens with some extreme width, this is it." Interesting the both reviews failed to mention anything about "tragically comic distortion" at the very wide end. Do you have any reference that sides with your opinion?

I have no idea why people are so focused on the 10-24 weight. Lets keep it in perspective here, its only 5 grams more than the XF56 prime. If you can carry around a XF56 on the front of your camera and not blink, surely you can carry something that is 5 grams more. No?

Macro would have not been on the top of my list, but I guess I can see this if you are not overly concerned about focus point.

learning curve of TTL vs Manual in conjunction with external incidental light meter? is this what you mean?

hope history won't repeat itself here with a heavy Fuji kit by bring along something all the time for the rare unplanned shots on the long end which often are never long enough. In my experience. Darn Murphy's law. lol. but, here we are again.. you are not me. so it maybe perfect for your needs and be both wide and long enough and you will be saved from the wrath of Murphy's law. If it will work for you, I got to tell you, I will be very jealous. Good luck.

LOL, don't be so hard on yourself. You have to have reasonable limits. Will 18 be wide enough, will 135mm be long enough? I can tell you from my own personal experience. NO and NO. ...but you know what.. that is ok. Can't plan for the unplanned and still expect to carry around a reasonable sized kit.

awesome job on filling the corners on these!!! they are great. Love the one where the person is pointing into the corner of the frame. so cool what f/stop did you have to shot the one with the star flare off the building? ahh.. never mind.. found it.. I was going to guess f/22 actually. nice.

Patrick, btw, I picked up the 10-24 last week from CameraLand per your tip. ;-) thanks for that. Saved another $50USD over MAP. So I kind of owe you.

Why is that exactly? Are you trying to capture something moving?

this might help you: http://www.fujivsfuji.com/10-24mm-f4-vs-primes/

Thanks Rico. I like simple explainations.

Wow.. You had a lot to say. I just have one remaining question. So about the +0.2 exposure for dark skin. I'm still not sure how you came up with this. That all I really was wanting to know.

Hmmm. I'm guessing the Fuji is on the right due to longer dof and correct wb? It's a gray stuffed animal not pinkish. Right? If you want to compare bokeh, set the canon to the same dof. Which would be f1.8. I don't think the canon back focusing as much as the dof is much shallower. Compare the flowers on the stool in front and behind the plane of focus. More apparent on left side; look at the two green flowers and the in between. I assume it's on the stuffed animal's eyes.

14 bit vs 12 bit raw files.

Yes, in a protective case.