x-tc

you sure about that? maybe if a new camera comes out with drastically better AF-C performance and slide show free realtime EVF.

only reason I can think of touching the existing industrial design of the X-E2 without adding new HW features is to do a cost reduction.

"Don't take pictures; make them!"

Photos, iPhoto and Aperture all use the same underlying RAW engine API from Apple. They all "work". In fact, Iridient Developer uses the same API engine also. This is why Iridient is only supported on the Mac. However, the final results can vary greatly between Apple's own apps and Iridient . "OS X Yosemite provides system-level support for digital camera RAW formats from the following cameras." https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203088

Iridient is based on the Apple OS X/iOS RAW Engine API. Just get Apple to port it to Windows and you are golden.

now where did we get that impression??? hilarious!! great post.

"plans in progress, but can not confirm content" ===translation===>> " FUJIFILM CONFIRMS: New Firmware for Fuji X-E2 (at the end of this year)!" hilarious

Darknj, Weight added to N1 kit: N1 CX 70-300: 560g total FX 70-300 + FT1: 745g + 150g = 895g total Length added to N1 kit: N1 CX 70-300: 108mm total FX 70-300 + FT1: 144mm + 42.5mm = 186.5mm total Also not sure about your 70-300 FX copy but mine get dramatically softer above 200mm and focus accuracy is hit and miss on the long end when shooting sports. In terms of IQ, I feel my Fuji X-T1 w/ XF 55-200 smokes my D600 w/ FX 70-300 at all equiv focal lengths. Especially on the long end. Although my N1 V2 makes my X-T1 w/ 4.0 FW look like a joke when it comes to shooting action sports outside. Imagine what Fuji could do with good fast zooms on a 1" stacked sensor. Agreed about the N1 32mm prime. However, I'm not all that interested in fast primes as much as faster zooms on 1" from Nikon. Which are no where to be seen. Same goes with Nikon DX and Canon EF crop. Half hearted attempts imho.

I think Fuji can succeed in the same way as they have done in APC-S. While both Canon and Nikon were doing half hearted support in APS-C glass compared to FF, Fuji went all in. The same is happening in 1". Nikon has always treated this market with half hearted support. If Fuji went all with quality interchangeable 1" fast glass with fast AF using the new Sony stacked sensors, I believe they would get a lot of new customers. I don't think there is much point competing on price basis with the likes of Sony and Panasonic on fixed lens 1" cameras.

There are both pros and cons. How did you conclude to "slightly better with ANY" FX long range lens. Which better points are you talking about? Which worse points are you dismissing for ANY Long range FX range?Price, weight, iq, AF speed and accuracy, low light performance, depth of field, lens rendering, bokeh, weather resistance, VR performance, corner performance wide open, etc?

Reads like a legal contract.

There are no perfect cameras. Only ones which are best for YOUR specific tasks. I have 3 different systems which I use regularly; each one for different specific tasks. You will find opinion varies greatly based in what others are using their cameras for. I think YOU are on track to pick one that works best for YOU. Based on your use cases, I think the flaws of the older bodies is not all that important. Figure out if you can actually live with the fixed 23mm FL. That is key to your decision, IMHO. You can do that now. Put on a standard zoom and tape it to the equiv focal length and go out and take the photos you like to take for a week straight. If you are happy with the results without moving the zoom, then get the fixed X100. If not then x-pro1 or x-e1. For your outdoor use case, the EVF mode will be best with wider FLs that are outside the "normal" range. As cheap as X-pro1 is the X-E1 is even cheaper.

I have many FD lens. Both FD and nFD. IMHO, The nFD 35/2 is the sharpest one that I have. I see no diff between my nFD and FD SSC 50/1.4. If I had to pick one it would be the nFD for its light weight. For X mount adapters, I am pleased with the Fontasy adapters due to fit. Just the right amount of tightness at the mount on both ends. The metabones seems a bit too tight. Haven't noticed any infinity focus issues.

darknj, My XF 27 sticks out about 5mm beyond the MHG-XT (normal size). Might be a different story with the MHG-XT large. The N1 primarily gets used for outdoor sports. Best tool I have for that. Different horses for different courses. There is no perfect camera for everything. ;-)

If you are coming from a DSLR like myself, then likely yes. Fuji makes a MHG for almost every X-Series interchangeable lens model they sell and they manage get an extra $100 out of me every time I buy a Fuji Body. @#$!$#!%!#$. I think they do it on purpose just to squeeze more money out of us after the initial sale. They make their bodies really small to compete with other "mirrorless" cameras and make it look much smaller than DSLRs. However, there are at least three issues with this: 1. The grip is too shallow if using larger lens. 2. The tripod screw on the body is not aligned with the lens axis. <--- this is why I think they do it on purpose. There is no reason to misaligned the tripod screw on the body. 3. The camera will not sit flat on the table with larger lens which have large front elements. All these things are solved by their optional metal hand grips. There is a 4th potential gotcha for X-T1 that the hand grip fixes. Although not intentional. The rubber grippy material is known to separate from the camera. The hand grip helps to keep it down and avoid this issue. There are three different Fuji hand grip models for the X-T1: MHG-XT SMALL - This isn't really a hand grip, its just the Arca-Swiss compatible bottom plate. It resolves problems, 2 and 3. MHG-XT - This is the regular sized hand grip with integrated Arca-Swiss compatible bottom plate. It resolves all 4 problems. MHG-XT LARGE - This is an oversized grip with integrated Arca-Swiss compatible bottom plate. It resolves all 4 issues. It would be best to try out both sizes at a local store with your lens and/or attach any other heavy lens you are considering purchasing in the future. The regular sized one was fine for me. I'm not happy about dishing out extra money after they sale (especially when I think Fuji intentionally set up this kind of problems) , but it made a world of difference for me and other people. Darn you Fuji!! The optional extra long eye cup is another one. I mean, really Fuji. You couldn't just make it the stock eye cup. Its no Hoodman, but its definitely better than what comes on the XT-1. Shutup and take my money.. Errr... At least they provide you with hoods for most of their lens unlike some other manufacturers. Check out the photo in following post, which shows the X-T1 with the optional normal MHG-XT hand grip compared to some of my other cameras including a FF DSLR. It should give you a sense of how much it added over stock. You can also see how much the stock thumb grip sticks out the back on the X-T1, compared to the DSLR and the optional eyecup vs a Hoodman on the DSLR. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/394-big-hands/?p=4252 good photo compared stock thumb grip to lens mate thumbgrip.. also good view of what the stock hand grip looks like for comparison to my photo above. http://www.lensmateonline.com/store/media/extraImages/XT1/xt1_thumbrest_03.jpg

I assume you already have the optional metal hand grip? If not start there first. It helped with my 55-200

Although I have a Lensmate thumbgrip on my X-E1, I felt the thumbgrip already built into the X-T1 was good enough. YMMV. If you do decide you really need one, stick with Lensmate or Match Technical. On the other hand, if you are looking for an inexpensive hot shoe removal tool, the cheap Chinese versions on eBay and Amazon are your best bet for quick and simple extraction. /s Review this thread on this forum to show you what I am talking about: http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/205-be-careful-with-thumb-grips/?hl=thumbgrip

Clinton, If I understand the OP, they are basically saying that new feature settings are getting buried away into menus without direct controls to switch back quickly and many of these things when enabled prevent other features from working right. In short, we have to keep messing with settings in the menus, back and forth depending on what we are shooting. Portraits, vs sports. Etc. Seems like a fair observation to me. I think Fuji needs to spend more time on making things more intelligent and less complex. Like they did to eliminate the need to have a macro button. It is relatively simple to introduce new complex features, compared to the complexity involved to make these new features simple for the end user to live with. I suspect it's on someone's todo list, but was not a high enough priority to delay the released core features I'd like to see the option to have different AF setting based on drive mode. I.e. FD and MS+ES when in S drive, FD off and ES off when in CH drive.

Everything you describe is normal. Except the thumb grip; which are not all alike. Which one do you have?

As the name implies its about synchronization. i.e. When the flash goes off relative to when the respective shutter areas are open. When the exposure time is shorter then the X-sync speed, areas are expose in a partial slit like manner; i.e. not exposed all at once. This slit is created by tracking the rear shutter behind the front shutter. The separation distance between the two determining exposure period for each area. The flash must deliver same amount of light when each area of the sensor is being exposed by the shutter gap that tracks across the frame at the rate of X-sync. The X-sync speed of the X-T1 is 1/180. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_synchronization#X Here is what happens when lighting is not the same and shutter speed is faster than the X-Sync. So its not just about duration. Its also about constant intensity over each area when the shutter speed exceeds X-Sync. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal-plane_shutter#/media/File:Lightning_rolling_shutter.jpg

Excuses excuses. Its been happening for years now for both the rumors NEX-7 and X-PRO1 replacements. Did Nikon delay it's recent D7200 because of rumored sensor ? Is Sony delaying the release of the m43 cameras which have had the same 16MP sensor for years now? If the rumored A7000 and X-Pro2 products were a priority to Sony and Fuji, respectively, then they would have planned and released product based on current sensor availability. Instead, in my opinion, the only thing the rumored A7000 and X-Pro2 have in common is they are rumored replacements for cameras which were released almost 3.5 years ago which are no longer a priority due to more successful product lines. In short, don't hold your breath for either any time soon and expect more rumors, followed by more excuses. Like the Nikon D300 replacement which was last released 6 years ago. Yet, there are still people waiting for it and claim that it is in the works. http://www.dailycameranews.com/2014/04/nikon-d300s-replacement/

Very comfortable. Would not go back. Expensive but worth every penny for me.

acarey and caterham, Thanks for your the posts. I didn't know that about the eye sensor.

IMHO, on vacation time is scarce so less lens changes and light weight is best. Lack of light won't be an issue outside, and inside you will need fairly good DoF inside. When shooting portraits, you will more likely want to incorporate in the background than do isolation. So OIS > fast lens. Never needed a tripod with the 10-24. Also took 18-55 on second X body. I did not take the 55-200; its too big. Instead I took my Nikon V2 w/ CX 30-110 (81-300 equiv. attached). It got used about 10% of the time.

my cameras vs grip sizes. from left to right (i.e. largest to smallest sensor). Nikon D600 (Full Frame), Fuji X-T1 (1.5 crop) w/ normal optional grip, Nikon 1 V2 (2.7 crop). iPhone 5s (7.21 crop) for reference.