erwiurewurwehu

Highlight blinking warning would be nice.

More than 30 seconds exposure without bulb and remote would be nice. In manual mode I would love to see several minutes. I hate having to pull out the remote when I need more than 30 seconds.

I want it the evening before so I know if I should get out of bed the next day or not.

This plus better bracketing and I will be a happy camper. I think both can be achieved with the current hardware and the software changes wouldn't be too deep either. HSS and wireless TTL would be nice but I don't know if the current hardware can support it.

Much better :-)

Wouldn't you have to crank for a few hours to charge a camera battery?

I have tried a few solar chargers and it took a very long time to recharge a camera battery. In good light it took me around a day per battery. In cloudy weather it would probably take several days. This was with solar panels that could be used for hiking. Bigger panels would probably work better but are not easy to carry around. If you have a car try to charge from there.

I would be interested too. Fuji doesn't really tell much about how the whole setup works.

The 55-200 is a necessity for wildlife in the rain forest. This would be my first choice (or get a prototype of the 150-450 from Fuji. This would be be even better :-). Next choice would be 23 or wider, maybe the 10-24.

Great diagram! It looks like this will work only with a lens that has "unused" sections of the front element like a full frame on APS-C.

Thanks for clarifying. There is a lot of information on the web but none as concise as your response :-)

I recently started reading about focal reducers and it sounds like an interesting concept. But I can't find any information about when it can be used and when not and what the drawbacks are. In particular I wonder about: - Does the lens have to be a full frame or can you use an APS-C lense? - Could you make the Fuji 10-24 into a super super wide angle 2.8 lens? Does anybody have a link to an article that explains the basics or can explain here? The adapters I have found a re a little too expensive to just try out.

Nice! Did you use flash or how did you get the background that dark?

You are making good points but I personally am happy that they are trying to improve. I bet a lot of the options will be removed in the future. Eg. if the sensor had phase detection points on the whole surface then the choice wide/zone would go away.

Yes, it always makes that noise.

Finally got around to testing out the X-T1 video features. One thing that's pretty annoying is the position of the video record button. I have pretty small fingers and still have trouble pressing it. Especially when I want to finish the video I have to move my hand and often still don't press the button correctly at the first try. Do you have the same problem and is there a way to fix this? It doesn't seem to be possible to assign the video to another FN button.

I have both and I think the 10-24 has less distortion and is a better lens for normal light. The Rokinon is great at astrophotography and low light. But it's very close. I don't think the 10-24 is worth $600 more. The Roinon is also very light and small. I should add that I am not an expert at lens testing.

I have never tried doing macros. Do you just pick a flower and wait for an insect to come by?

I don't think there is much reason to worry about whether you can upgrade or not. This is not like a Windows upgrade where files are being applied selectively. I bet you can copy Firmware V1.0 onto a SD card and the camera will downgrade to it. Haven't tried it though :-)

As ar as I can tell it won't use the tracking features of FW4.

Since I am leaving for a trip where the new features of FW4 might be useful on the 27th and the release is on 29th I decided to give the leaked version a try. First observation: It's not a Nikon D4 but it's a major improvement which I hope is only the beginning of more improvements. One improvement I would like to see is better integration with back button focus (AF-L). Right now when in zone mode and you press the AF-L button, the camera picks a few focus points and that selection is static. the way I would like it to work is that if you keep the button pressed, the camera would keep tracking like it does with the shutter half pressed with AF-C. That way you could press the shutter to take pictures while the camera keeps tracking. AF-C is good at tracking but you get only one press of the shutter button. then you have to refocus. In short; I would like a mode where the camera tracks an object and I can press the shutter button several times to take pictures while the camera keeps tracking. Does this make sense or is there a way to achieve this already?

And while we are it, allow exposure times of 60 seconds or more?

It would be nice though if it would keep metering for a few seconds after releasing the shutter button.