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  1. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/deals/
  2. What do you use Mac or PC? one way depending on your computer operating system is Apples QuickTime 7 Pro (not supported on current Mac OS). It’s very easy and there are many websites with descriptions and videos. just search “Create QuickTime Image Sequence” or search “Create timelapse Image Sequence“ for other software.
  3. Fuji’s website shows Mac OS 10.15 Catalina compatible for their free X Acquire & Capture one Pro. Here’s Fuji’s link on tether compatibility: http://digitalcamera-english.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/19878/
  4. (From an older inquiry I responded to here) I bought the pair listed below. Both are made by Godox but are rebranded house brands from Adorama. B&H also has Godox rebranded house brands though I don’t know their name for it. The reason I went with Godox is they are inexpensive and rated very high on multiple websites. I first bought the pair as Godox branded but the warranty was a joke. The flash and off camera support both had a card insert explaining the warranty. (Nothing on the Godox box’s or Godox website say anything about a warranty.) The warranty card stipulated that the seller must include signed documentation with the claim and all that is covered is the electrical board, so I returned both. B&H and Adorama have warranties that stand behind the house brand (Godox) flashes and support with language that is “normal” and both in my experience (and reviews) are honest upstanding sellers. Got the pair for $124.95 delivered from Adorama and am very happy with them. The off camera support R2 Pro (XPro-F) was well with the $30 so the flash can be moved away from the lens. I prefer using power (AA batteries) over rechargeable that’s easily available/replaceable but to each their own. happy shooting! ps. I forgot to say the one downside to Godox is their antiquated firmware update. Their new flashes now support Apples OS (check their website for models) but last I looked all the older flashes can only be firmware updated with a PC and the process is very 1990’s. My flashes came updated from Adorama with the newer firmware so for the moment, it’s not a problem. Flashpoint Zoom TTL R2 Flash With Integrated R2 Radio Transceiver - Fuji (TT685F) Flashpoint R2 Pro 2.4GHz Transmitter for Fuji (XPro-F)
  5. Excellent, glad it worked out Ty!
  6. Advice comes with the danger of scratching or otherwise harming your equipment. that said, sounds like the cap is cross threaded. how to remove? With computers (so not to damage computers) folks use a Spudger. It’s basically a mini crowbar but made of a softer material like plastic. The auto industry also uses smaller crowbars made of a softer material (plastic) for removing headliners or fabric/plastic, (search auto headliner removal tool) for examples. if it were me and I didn’t have these tools. pushing the lens release button should have no effect as I’ve never seen a camera body lens cover/cap on a camera system that locks (maybe there is a very high end medium or large format camera that does, that’s out of my realm) I’d cover the camera with a camera cleaning cloth. I’d then push the fabric to that small gap you mentioned by using a credit card or something plastic, thin but firm to get under the cap and carefully pry. If it didn’t come off I’d try again but move the card around the cap as I pried. What are your thoughts?
  7. Hello everyone, I’m a past user of four manufacturers. I’ve loved both photography and film/video since school days. Fuji’s x-t3 brought me back to a multiple lens system and got me excited again. So much so my wife (a Minolta shooter since college) bought a x-t3 too!
  8. Just tested both a Lexar and a Transcend and both read fine on a MacBook pro 2011. I feel Catalina is a very different OS then past ones and some apps aren’t compatible so I didn’t do an update but a 100% clean install of Catalina, then reinstalled software using the disc images or downloaded again from the supplier (not copied apps off the backup) then moved folders and such over. I did a 4K Final Cut Pro x project and Catalina preformed better then it ever has (I’ve used FC since version two). I think it just needs to start out on a clean fresh drive but I can only relate my experience. While not a totally fresh install (old apps could still gum up things) It is possible to reinstall the os from Catalina recovery mode: first backup then... (Instructions borrowed) The correct way to reinstall macOS Catalina is to use your Mac’s Recovery Mode: Restart your Mac and then hold down ⌘ + R to activate Recovery Mode In the first window, select Reinstall macOS ➙ Continue Agree to the Terms & Conditions Select the hard drive you’d like to reinstall mac OS Catalina to and click Install The reinstallation process will start shortly and roughly take 30 minutes. When complete, your Mac will start up as usual. No files should be lost.
  9. Thanks jerryy! I just discovered Affinity and see it’s on sale for 1/2 price, so I bought it @ $25. US! on your other Mac Catalina topic. I see your concern on HDR so it’s been changed, thank you for pointing that out
  10. I’m looking for a quality software program that’s Mac compatible. I understand Adobe can do HDR And I do have PS elementals 2020 but I understand I need their cloud rental software to do HDR. I’ve been using Skylum’s Aurora HDR and its been ok but I’ve had loading issues that they were no help with and I’ve realized Skylum isn’t so much a quality photo software solution as it is a marketing company. After buying Aurora HDR twice, Luminar twice and their miscellaneous “Deals”, I’m done and want to move away from their yearly game. any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  11. I’ve shot years of wedding solo and your friends ask is a tough one as shooting is only a quarter of the challenge. That aside. I just did my first video with the x-t3 and focus was a challenge and the stupid stopped recording in 4K. At least it counts down on the screen to give you a heads up on when it will quit recording (so you can try to get critical vows and such...or an external recorder talked below) ok, the overheating issue. An external recorder is the way to go. It should give you 4:2:2 10 bit 4K and no limit on recording time (completely test this as I have xt3 not xt30 experience) the external recorder needs to have a monitor as part of its package. (My past experience w/ a Canon 5D mark III) it was the back LCD that caused the heating issue so switch to the eye viewer and test to confirm it won’t overheat anymore. on other stuff. Work on video focusing a ton and review footage on a large monitor. HD isn’t forgiving and 4K is even less forgiving. Use one lens and get as familiar as possible using it with video. Dreaming of what’s possible (different lenses, etc) vs the reality of only have one chance at getting it right will put a lot of stress on you. Switching gear in the middle of all this will add stress. (Where do you store the other gear, What pocket is it in, how/when to switch back, where’s that lens cap, did switching introduce dust, a hair, finger print or a little fuzzy thing that will be on all your footage now) Sound: shotgun mic like Rodes with fake fur (deadcat) windscreen on camera as it will isolate most unwanted camera and all your breathing noise (you’ll be huffing/puffing at sometime). Small recorder with small lavalier mic for groom. Recorder goes in jacket breast pocket. Turn on at least 10min. before ceremony and put tape over on/off switch (if groom goes to bathroom ya don’t want him messing with recorder because he’s under stress too and may/will forget to turn it back on) hope I didn’t overstep your ask too much. just want to help you and your family. good luck!
  12. I think it’s a tough ask. I take each with a grain or sometimes a block of salt. I’ve produced videos and know it’s a ton of work and when it comes to someone doing it for their income... it changes everything. Plus in todays internet, I think business knows how to protect their products with hidden sponsorships, articles and with comments, down votes and customer reviews from employees acting/pretending to be normal users. My thoughts in no order: Gordon Laing - for a long time I’ve felt he was honest in evaluations and I like his consistency in testing. Dislike his newer dummied down rating system. Theoria Apothasis - has vast experience and equipment, not sponsored publicly or hidden. But I’ve stopped watching because I’ve also grown extremely tiered of his consistently praising himself, then repeating it again and again and again in every video. The tidbits of “on topic” info. happen between long episodes of self praise. It’s exhausting and just not worth sitting through because it happens in every video. Kai W - entertainment. For me, he’s funny and original. Maarten Heilbron and a few “others” I’ve gotten useful info from. Maarten’s a bit old school but I find him more educated then the others. Pal2tech - Comes to mind but I think there are a great deal of regurgitated reviewers like him that offer repacked info they pull from others work and give bad and clueless advice to people who need real help. I realized what he was doing after viewing others content and then his, plus his thoughtless bad advice on multiple topics told me he was actually a danger to people. Those poor folks didn’t know that what he was advising them to do was actually bad advice and showed his inexperience. I have no interest for players.
  13. “Keep the originals around Justin Case.” Yes well said, it’s great advice. Drives are so inexpensive now I do a double backup of everything off the card w/Carbon Copy Cloner instead of Mac’s copy n paste. Copy paste hasn’t been an issue but...
  14. Your first read was correct, I was looking for film/movie metadata info. Every program covers stills but movies are neglected for information like fStop. SS, ISO, etc.. when Final Cut X converts it to ProRes it doesn’t bring that metadata info along. At least Fuji is addressing the issue with the X-T4.
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