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Olaf W.

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Everything posted by Olaf W.

  1. Maybe in your case it makes sense to wait for the X-Pro3 which will get a better optical viewfinder than its predecessor.
  2. Just a spontaneous guess: face detection is activated. Or you're just too close to the subject.
  3. Yeah, I meant the X70, which has a 18.5mm lens. Sorry for the confusion. And, I did not know there is a converter for the X70, too. Even though discontinued you might get one new. No information yet about a successor.
  4. Welcome to our forum. I'm moving this thread to the X-E series section for better attention.
  5. The DR setting depends on the ISO setting (DR200 requires ISO400 and above, DR400 requires ISO800 and above).
  6. This thread was moved to "adapting lenses". Perhaps it gets more atttention here.
  7. Do you use "files on demand" with OneDrive? And yes, using an external disk with sufficient space will prevent juggling your files on the system drive. You have to reconfigure OneDrive though.
  8. It seems to be discontinued. And, the 18.5mm lens of the X100 will give you 27.75mm wide ange which is quite the same.
  9. Perhaps you switched on the face detection? I've moved this thread to the X-E3 section, perhaps more people will see your question.
  10. Did you try to hit the DISPLAY button while looking through the viewfinder?
  11. Try to press the (rear) dial, you should be able to change the exposure time then.
  12. A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads. Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time. We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum. As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F. AFL Button not working If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again. Shutter not working with adapted lens Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens. Flash not working Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). Can’t select ISO100 Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100. Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter. Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light. Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter. Autofocus not working anymore If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure. Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu. To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear. If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu. Deactivating the annoying Q-Button On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button). Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING. The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder). So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time). The camera appears to be dead If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card. Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉 Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping. Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING. If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
  13. We will look into this and update the survey or start a new one.
  14. If you like the X-E2 you should take a look at the X-E3, too.
  15. I'm still not sure what you are expecting. This is what my X100F with open aperture (23mm, F2.0) looks like when where is bright sunlight in the background:
  16. The depth of field is quite small with an open aperture at 2.0. But not small enough to give you a nice buket when there is not enough distance between the major object and the backgroud (or foreground). Try some other motives like flowers to get a feeling for good distances and positions of objects and backgrounds. IMHO the lens is working fine.
  17. That‘s how it‘s supposed to be with an open aperture and this focal length. What did you expect?
  18. Try to remove the battery and wait for about a minute until you put it back in. Attach a lens and verify that it clicks during this procedure. If you still get the lens error I‘m afraid that the electronic connection from body to lenses is broken. Did your camera get wet?
  19. You‘re welcome, great to hear it‘s working fine now. Enjoy your X-T20.
  20. This looks really strange. Since the first photo looks ok, it seems to be a wrong setting. Wich film simulation do you use and did you switch off the adding of grain?
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