darknj

Scheduled to go hunt for a Super Takumar Macro 50mm F4 lens along that Takumar 105 F2.8

Got a 25 sec on a bridge with the XF 10-24 F4 lens, which is noticeably lighter. I was still slightly holding the legs to avoid the camera to fall down and maybe cause a major traffic accident.

That's easy! It's not supported.... >.>

Yep, that's the one, but somehow my diaphragm ring is fully open when the red dot in on 16 and close all the way down when it goes to 2. A bit weird but I can get used to that. The Auto ISO is indeed a bit unbalanced, I am getting some either very dark or too light shots even if the balance on the EVF was the correct one. Uploading my tests shots as I write these lines, had a few on my cats along a couple of bokeh one and took it out for a bit of fun and took it for that small assignment. I got an agreement to display one picture as long as we can not recognize the place. Anyway, the album is here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskpj4iRm A couple of highlights: Really like the bokeh on that lens, it's quite pleasing. Subject isolation works very well too. Rather impressive sharpness, focus was on the left eye.

Yep got it yesterday and have been having fun with it mostly indoor. I was able to use on a small assignment for a company that wanted some pictures for their intranet. Please allow me to thank you again for this lens, so far I am having a great time with it! The f-stop markings are reversed for some reason but coupled with the X-T1 it is simply great to shoot. On a more technical aspect, I have the feeling the lens is actually more than a F2 lens, my pictures are a lot brighter than they should be and the ISO isn't as high as expected. Could be just me that is seeing things that not supposed to be. Also haven't got the chance yet to run the raw files into Lightroom yet. Planing to do it later this evening. I will post a small gallery of the pictures on Flickr.

Just read the whole thread, there have been plenty of bags presented along their pros and cons ;]

I will kindly point toward that Neck/Shoulder strap thread, here.

I would rather say the 18-135, the 50-140 is really big and heavy. It can be really annoying to lug such a large piece of glass all around. The F2.8 is not that often needed in good light. In low light, provided you don't have to shoot moving targets, the 5 stops OIS would serve you better.

Sadly, with the current line up there are no best lenses, only a better choice in a given situation. The F1.4 will be better at low light, due to the extra stop, meaning instead of shooting at 3200 ISO at 1/30, you can now shoot at 3200 ISO at 1/60, which makes things a lot easier. The draw back of that lens is its age, it's slower to focus than the F2, is NOT weather resistant compared to the F2, is rather noisy when you use it and the front element moves when focusing. Despite all that, I personally prefers the F1.4 due to the way it contrast, but that is really a personal preferences and at one point I will have to buy the F2 version since I travel to humid countries on semi regular basis and I could use a smaller WR lens than my current 18-135.

First of all, how dark are we speaking ? Full city dark or full natural darkness ? Or just getting lower light than inside a house after the sunset ? The really low light art requires a few more pieces and it is completely different than handheld shots. On a more general term, I would take the deal. The 23 is F1.4 and will replace that 35 F1.4 you planned originally, just a bit wider. Plus you get get the new 35 F2 which is a lot easier to work with when compared to the old one which is slower to focus and could have some issues against low contrast scene. If you really plan on doing a lot of low light, please do consider a tripod, something of quality, you will need something sturdy and will not fall down at the slightest bump. Once you have your gear, take it to a camera shop and ask to test those tripods. Put your camera on the tripod and nudge it, see if it easily falls off. If the store guy know his stuff, he will quickly get rid of the flimsy tripod and motion you toward the better ones, sadly, also the more expensive one. You can use monopods if you feel stable enough with your hands but do consider the option. The X-T1 is a really good camera but don't expect it to be able to get you ISO 200 in the dark handheld even with an F1.4 lens. If you don't have the budget for a decent tripod, maybe a Grillapod, it has articulate legs and can wrap itself around a lot of things. Don't be crazy tho, it's no spider legs there, but will get you the job done provided you can find some place to put it. Low light photography is most often set on a tripod and you control the shoot either from a ranged trigger or another way wireless, the Fuji app is decent for that purpose. But on the mean time, you have your expensive gear set on top of some three legged thingy, if the wind blows hard enough, it can and certainly will tip over and you will find your precious gear on the ground. Cries and/or frustrations can follow that kind of event. Considering you are relatively new in the craft, take some time to look at how it is usually done, there are plenty of youtube video that explains the process and what points to take into consideration.

So far we got the confirmation of the rumor, plus full announcement is in 3 days. I think we can all live a bit more in the surprise or die in the anticipation ;]

Let's try to stay positive, the OP clearly is having conflicting thoughts about investing a large sum of money into something. If I were back at my beginning I would be fretting just as much if not more, I can get behind his stress and need to be reassured. Last point ethawizeguy, there will be no good choice. Just a choice. Whatever you decide to do at the end of day, there will always be a better camera tomorrow. Or another thing that would make you think you will be a sudden formidable photographer. The only way to get better is to take a camera, any camera, and start shooting. Your first 10k shots will be crap, some might be better than the rest but it won't be that good. After taking lots of pictures you will get better at everything and will come to a better understanding of this craft. Take your time and take it easy.

1500 shots is close of nothing for a camera, there are no hard numbers but it seems X-T1 can take up to 150k shutters before you need to consider anything about it. And even if the mechanical shutters starts misbehaving the electronic shutter will keep going until the inside electronics dies. The number of ppl who can actually break the shutter on a camera from brand new to almost dead is only a couple of hundred or so. Most of time something else will push for the change of a camera body. If the price is good and the seller looks good too, then go for it.

Or use protection ;]

I know what Internal Focusing mean, and I still warn you that your sensor is not protected because of that. If you pour water on it, it will seep in from the mount. Same thing for dust and other humid/wet weather conditions.

Maybe not, when I put both side by side, the Fuji ticks a lot more boxes than the GR does for me. Beside just look around, we got word of the X-Pro2 going for 1800-2000$ and I am sure that there will be plenty of users that will get that newer camera even if their X-T1 is barely a year old. I can not say I blame them. If I wasn't that happy with my X-T1, I could be swayed too by the X-Pro2.

You should really consider the 18-135, it's not as expensive nowadays, keep the 35 with you and just get the 16 for wide angle and you are good to go face whatever the weather would be throwing at you. I know ppl will find be annoying by trouncing that 18-135 up whenever there is a doubt about what to take with you, but really that lens is plenty good for whatever you need for your photography need. Now for paid work... maybe not as much... but for private things and hobby, really can't go wrong.

Hehe, lucky you. I only had the chance to shoot one afternoon with it with a single roll and I still remember it even several years afterward.

Unless the X-T2 is a major game changer, I will stick with my X-T1. My GAS is already being poked at with that silly Nikon D500 along the SB5000 flash...

I would love to have a resurrection of the Fuji Xpan camera, I had a nice time shooting with it last time was I in Hong-Kong.

Like what they said above me. There is only 2 seasons in Thailand, hot and hotter. If you are not used to that kind of weather, I would advise you to pack only clothing to go there and to come back, buy the rest of your clothes in local shops. They will be a lot more breathable and dry a lot faster with the sweat. Drop the Nissin and tripod, unless you really plan on using them for the architectural shots.

#1 cheaper #2 better If they do that, I think we would all be happy about it

Technically, your X-T10 is not weather resistant, having a WR lens on top of it doesn't change that part at all. So I would be rather careful with your gear if it starts raining or if you plan to go to a desert or tropical environment, please do not take your X-T10 without some form of external protections.

I will guess that you mean sensOR size and not Lens size. For sensOR size, that is limited to your budget, the FF (Full Frame) on the Sony A7 Mk2 is bigger and also heavier and the lenses will cost you more. Personally, I will not take the kit lens with the Sony body, that lens is really bad for the price. The "standard" zoom range is 24-70, you are missing 4mm on the widest end, why didn't Sony just made it 24mm at the widest, I have no clue. Plus when learning photography you want to avoid using a zoom. Zooms makes you lazy, you will not walk around your subject to make the shot, you will just zoom in or out and skip the learning part of photo composition. Now if you mean the Lens, that's whole different story. It basically mean which field of view (How narrow or wide) you would prefer. For that, there is nothing better than real experience. You will need to test the cameras and lenses and see what you like and what you don't. Technically, you could do everything with a 50mm equivalent (or 35mm on Fuji), it has been agreed to be "standard" field of view of the human eye. If you want to take low light shots, take the Fuji XF 35 F1.4 but if you will face harsher weather conditions, the XF 35 F2.0 will serves you better, plus it's a more recent lens and focus a bit faster than the old F1.4.

That and the camera bodies are all over 2000$ without any lenses. There is nothing wrong to want the "best" toy in the scenery but really do your research about the eco system. Search all the manufacturers, they have all pros and cons, I can give a small overview as how I see them: Canikon (Canon/Nikon): Old dinosaurs bulkier DSLR but super wide lenses variety, challenged by close of nobody in their eco system. Whatever your needs in lenses, they have it. Plus, very good selection of camera bodies for both FF and cropped sensor. Sony: Super impressive bodies, specially the last Mk2 generation, but lenses are very expensive for the IQ, in general, and the Zweiss lenses are even more expensive but at least there is a reason for that with magnificent IQ. And while you can adapt other lenses on them, you will lose on AF speed and precision, there have been several reports that not all the Canon lenses work as good as they want you to believe. Fuji: Rather low specs bodies but makes it up for excellent optics, so far it ranges from good to down right excellent, even the "cheap" XC lenses are decent for their prices. Panasonic/Olympus: Micro 4/3 sensor, even smaller than Fuji's BUT they have a very wide selection of prime lenses and a lot of them are really good, the bodies are smaller than Fuji's but the extra reach and lower prices for lenses makes it really interesting when starting up photography. The models that came up the last 2 years are all very good and plenty enough for whatever your needs. Pentax: A bit of an oddball as some of their decisions on camera doesn't make any sense (see Pentax K-S1), the K-S2 is still a very very good camera, you can literally wash the camera by pouring water on it. The weather sealing of Pentax is challenged by almost none. Great optics too, a bit lacky in my taste but I have been very spoiled by Nikon and Fuji. Very reasonable price, a K-S2 with 18-135 lens, the equivalent of 27-200ish on FF, cost like 650$ tops. They also make medium format camera at insane IQ. Last point, I am just repeating what the other said before me, but between a super good camera body with a crappy lens and a crappy body with an excellent lens, I will always take the second option. And to illustrate that: https://www.flickr.com/photos/27725331@N05/23503300869/in/dateposted/ It's not my picture, but one of a friend, she shoots with a Nikon D90 but used a Nikkor 70-200 for that event.