ErikN

There are several settings that can affect this. 
 
If you accidentally put the drive dial into double exposure or ADV, if you used film any bracketing mode except for auto exposure bracketing and some other settings I can't remember now.
The RAW indicator will either disappear or be crossed over if any of these settings are chosen.

I have both the 18-55 and 18-135, but not the 16-55. The reason I got the 18-135 is that I wanted a weather sealed lens (it was the only one at the time), and something a bit longer.
 
I have very mixed feeling about this lens. It has good image quality in some situations, but often produces images that are slightly soft (especially at 135. Forget using apertures larger than f/8. 5.6 is very soft at the borders and edges at 135). It's decent to good up to about 100 mm, but it lacks the microcontrast and clarity that is present in other Fujifilm lenses.
 
It's good for a superzoom I guess, but it's not up to the Fujifilm XF standard in my opinion. I would very much prefer something like a 16-70 or 16-80 WR lens and a separate telephoto zoom.
 
It hasn't seen much use since I got my X-T2. I feel that it can't really handle the extra resolution over the X-T1. I want to like it, and I sometimes do, it just comes a bit short of my expectations most of the time.

So, I did a time lapse yesterday, and it would have been great to be able to create a custom setting that set all parameters at once, instead I had to go through and set most of them one by one, and then remember to set them all back, since reverting to my C1 setting only changes a few of them back.
 
In this case I needed RAW only and electronic shutter which aren't saved.
 
Not a big deal, but being able to quickly swap into a complete set would be very useful. Although I understand that settings that have a physical dial or switch would be in conflict and should not be saved, I still think things like RAW/JPEG, shutter mode, AF mode and all other settings that doesn't have a physical dial or switch should be saved. I don't really see a reason for settings that have physical controls to be in the quick menu in the first place.

That would be great!

Here's my list:
More aspect ratios like 5:4 and 4:3
 
Better bracketing like in the GFX
 
Internal f-log recording
 
RGB histogram at least in playback
 
Highlight warning at least in playback
 
A menu option to enlarge the sensor to a medium format one
 
OK, maybe the last one isn't very realistic but how cool would it be?

I thought I would give a quick update.
My camera came back today. They put in a new main logic board and the problem is now fixed.

Check your dynamic range setting. DR200% would give you 400. It's probably set to auto

Hi!
 
I'm really on the fence about upgrading from my X-T1 to the X-T2. It has a lot of improvements I like, usable video being one of them, but at the end of the day it comes down to image quality.
 
I have heard a lot of conflicting opinions about the image quality of the X-T2 compared to the X-T1. Some say it's way better, others say it's missing the Fuji magic from the earlier generations. I love the image quality of my X-T1.
 
So, upgrading to the X-T2 is a significant expense and if the magic isn't there then it may be a mistake upgrading.
 
How do those of you that have upgraded feel about it? Any regrets? Was it worth it?
 
If you have both then which do you prefer image quality wise?
 
I'm talking OOC JPEG here mostly as RAW can be processed to taste either way, but any opinions from owners is appreciated. Don't want to spend the money and then be disappointed by the image quality.
 
Thanks,
Erik

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+1 here too. It's just a software thing that should be easy to fix. This is really the only thing I'm missing now with firmware 4.0 
Oh, and it would be nice with an image number/total in playback. Like 56/70 to show that you are looking at image no 56 out of 70 total.