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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/26/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Somewhere in Flanders All shot with the X-pro2 and a 7Artisans 12mm
  2. 3 points
    Max78

    Fuji Birds

    Keel-billed toucan
  3. 3 points
    jerryy

    Trains (open thread)

    Underside of an active trestle bridge.
  4. 3 points
    Justa1972

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Fuji X-T3 and 10-24 Godrevy Lighthouse - SW Cornwall
  5. 3 points
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    jerryy

    landscapes with fuji x

    Roadside Barn
  8. 2 points
    Herco

    RAF underexposed in Affinty Photo

    Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature. The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice. The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post. As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders. By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.
  9. 2 points
    quincy

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    According to Fujifilm, the XF 18-55 at 55 mm has a maximum magnification of 1:6.67, while the XF 90 has a maximum magnification of 1:5. This means, when both lenses are at their close focus distance, the XF 90 should see a slightly tighter crop. The image area in the plane of focus of the XF 18-55 at 55 mm should be around 16.7 cm x 11.1 cm, while the image area of the XF 90 should be ~ 12.5 cm x 8.4 cm. I've added those frame lines to your image: But please also consider that your depth of field gets smaller as your magnification increases. So even if you buy a lens with better magnification and brighter aperture, you might still end up closing the aperture down to get the whole head in focus. I've added some pictures I took with the XF 80 f/2.8 wide open at f/2.8: (the last bird might even be a pigeon, but you'll know better than me) You can see that at f/2.8, the feathers at the back of the heads as well as the beaks are already very unsharp and out of focus in the portrait images while the eye is sharp. Even with less magnification as seen in the last picture, you can run into those problems.
  10. 2 points
    DuncanLPP

    Fall pictures

    Hello to all, My small contribution... Fujifilm X-Pro3 & XF 80mm
  11. 2 points
    jerryy

    landscapes with fuji x

    Tracks and Trees:
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    bbestone

    Fuji Flowers

    Fuji xt2 and XF 18-55
  14. 1 point
    Max78

    Fuji Birds

    Collared aracari (Panama canal zone, pacific side)
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    andrei89

    What went wrong here?

    what was the shutter speed? it was probably faster than the trigger could sync
  17. 1 point
    Herco

    JPEG post options

    CaptureOne (C1) has the Fujifilm film simulations build-in into the software. So when developing the RAW and exporting to JPEG you can use these film simulations incl. all the other editing that C1 allows you to do. This gives you a much better result than using the out-of-camera JPEGs and edit them for exposure in C1, PS or other software. A JPEG is best to use as an end result. The quality of the C1 Fujifilm film simulations is at least as good as the in-camera film simulations as it was developed in close cooperation with Fujifilm. In my experience they're even a bit better as they offer more flexibility in terms of grain structure and shadow detailing. The workflow for PS (with the .psd file) is a workaround workflow. PS doesn't recognize raw files and it uses Lightroom or Camera Raw for that. However, to maintain the layers and editing done in LR, you shouldn't exchange JPEG or TIFF files between LR and PS, but .psd files. It's a sort of exchange format for images between different software components of your workflow. We only use it for editing stuff that cannot be (easily) done in C1 and requires PS as an editor. In our experience this is less and less as C1 improves clone stamps and eraser capabilities. What remains in PS is the image manipulation like creating fuller lips, wider eyes or accentuating bodylines of models. Something that is also less and less done (fortunately). That requires PS or Affinity Photo as you have to dive into pixel level to cleanly remove all pixels and replace them with the ones you want. In those situations we use the 'edit with' and 'open with' menu option in C1 to open the file with PS. In the background that creates a temporary .psd file. Converting a JPEG into a .psd and than again create a JPEG is a very cumbersome path with loss of quality. Esp. if you already have the raw-file. Best to avoid that where possible.
  18. 1 point
    After watching the video, I can confirm that my speaker sounds exactly like yours. Nothing to worry.
  19. 1 point
    The tricky part is whether or not there is crackling when the other sounds are played because they all use the same speaker. One thing to try (to pin down if the speaker is bad) is to turn off the mechanical shutter, turn on the electronic shutter and use each of the sound effects for the shutter sound. [This is on page 191 of the manual]. If they are also messed up, the speaker is most likely fried.
  20. 1 point
    Jürgen Heger

    The future of olds fujinon 10-24

    I do not expect the 10-24 I to stay in production. So you may get a clearance sales now but likely not in the future. However, I do not have any information first hand 😊.
  21. 1 point
    jerryy

    landscapes with fuji x

  22. 1 point
    tractorboyx

    The future of olds fujinon 10-24

    Be patient, the market is about to be flooded with 2nd hand mark 1s. Bargains to be had i think.
  23. 1 point
    Hey guys, I had luck and got a 16-80mm just right before my holiday in Iceland. Now I'm back and would like to share some photos I took with it: Svartifoss / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Green / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Fjaðrárgljúfur / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Brunnhorn / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Skaftafell / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Dettifoss / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Ice / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Mountain light / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Stuðlafoss / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Vestrahorn / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr and one with the 14mm prime lens: Búðir / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke, auf Flickr Best regards, Sebastian
  24. 1 point
    #1923#

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Since there is no topic for landscapes in b&w, I thought let's create one... Cloudy day by #1923#, auf Flickr
  25. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Hello!!!

    Welcome to our forum!
  26. 1 point
    Herco

    23mm f2 and 27mm f2.8

    The 27 makes sense if you want to carry the camera in a pocket of your jacket or so. The body itself is too big for any other pockets anyway. If you carry the camera on a strap or in a small bag there's little point for a pancake lens anyway (over the 23 you already have). Note that the 27 doesn't have an aperture ring. If that's important to you (as it was for me), discard that lens. Also noteworthy: there are persistent 'rumors' about a MkII version of the 27. You may want to wait for that because it could boost IQ or it will lower second hand prices for the MkI version. Personally, I prefer the 35/f2. Though its not as small as the 27, the difference is not huge and the IQ of that 35 is stellar considering the price. It also combines nicely with the 23/f2.
  27. 1 point
    lifewithlouis

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    The Line Movement/Queens Park & Bloor/10.17.2020 Fujifilm X-H1 XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR more life... instagram @lifewithlouis https://www.instagram.com/lifewithlouis
  28. 1 point
    Herco

    RAF underexposed in Affinty Photo

    Though I don't use Affinity Photo and I therefore can't check it, it is most likely caused by the Dynamic Range setting. By setting DR to 400% you're essentially underexposing by 2 stops. I know that Capture One reads the RAF-file and adjusts accordingly. It's very likely that Affinity doesn't do that. Whether it's for all Fujifilm cameras or only for this one (GFX50R?), I can't tell. RAF-files from the GFX cameras are different from the X-Trans cameras. Even between the different models there are variations, hence that software specifies not the sensor type/generation but specifically the camera model.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    GreenGuy33

    Fuji Flowers

    X-T2 & Velvet 56
  31. 1 point
    Moze_snapsports

    Introduce Yourself

    Hi, I'm Carlos and all around new to the whole deal! Meaning, new to photography and my recent acquisition is an XT-3. My favorite side of photography is action sports, such as motocross, surf, skating and trying to focus on these. Looking forward to learn the video experience that xt3 can offer and learn\contribute with this amazing community. Thank You for the opportunity to joint in. Cheers
  32. 1 point
    mdm

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  33. 1 point
    mdm

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  34. 1 point
    Bside123

    landscapes with fuji x

    New Era Road Barn - Carbondale, IL Fujifilm X-T3 Circa 1977 SMC Pentax-M f/1.4 Manual Lens
  35. 1 point
    Enzio

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-H1 + XF55-200 ... sky on fire by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Enzio

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-H1 + XF55-200 ... Linde by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    milaber22

    Concert Photography (open thread)

    _DSF4302 Nasty Toys by Miltos Kostoulas, on Flickr
  40. 1 point
    Enzio

    landscapes with fuji x

    Blau ... Blau ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr X-H1 + XF 55-200
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Amazon River Tribes Just kidding - some members of a rowing club on the Danube river.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    My first wedding with only Fujifilm cameras. All shots taken with X100f. Olga @Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr Mihkel and Olga @Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr Mihkel & Olga @Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr Hungry @Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Enzio

    Fuji Birds

    the red side of life ... XE211167 by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr
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