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XH2 with XF 33 wr

Springtime is coming to the Norwegian fjords. X-E4 with XC 15-45

X-E2 and FX18-55mm

What is most ironic about this is that there must be many of us here that would be interested in significant ads about the products we're discussing. I would be. I normally hate ads, but relevant ones here would actually be somewhat welcome. What are the recent new Fuji product announcements? Is anybody offering a sale? How about 3rd party products? I mean, I actually want to spend money, more or less.

But Sirius-ly Dog Star... Of all the neat and interesting or just regular things to see in the night sky, Sirius, The Dog Star in constellation Canis Major, is considered the easiest to find, because it is the brightest star in the night sky. Being close to the Orion Constellation also helps make it easy to find. Sirius is going to continue getting brighter because it is moving toward us, in about 60,000 (60.000) years it will be a very close neighbor. (This is the equivalent of 28 minutes, 20 seconds worth of exposure). If you can find Sirius up high enough in the sky, then just below it you should be able to find Messier Object M41, The Mini Beehive Cluster (related in name to Messier M44 the Beehive Cluster). Sirius and M41 are companions, tracking together across the night sky. There are some other interesting objects, clusters and nebulae in that region, probably the most famous is Sh2-308, Dolphin Head Nebula. Canis Major (Big Dog): https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/canis-major-constellation/ Sh2-308: https://astrocat.info/sharpless-308-the-dolphin-nebula/ Sh2-304: http://galaxymap.org/cat/view/sharpless/304 Cr-121 (Collinder Open Cluster): https://in-the-sky.org/data/object.php?id=20726 Messier M41: https://www.go-astronomy.com/messier.php?Messier=M41 Sirius: https://www.space.com/21702-sirius-brightest-star.html Sirius: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirius

I can’t say for sure if will remove it but I’d try a dedicated sensor cleaning kit, or if you have a local shop that does repairs they might offer cleaning services too.

Fuji shooter. X-Pro 1, X-T30, X-T4, XF10, but currently on the X-T5. Based in Los Angeles. IG: @TOPSHELFJUNIOR

"Will you walk into my parlour?" said the Spider to the Fly” * Back on page one of this thread, there is a post showing a quick exposure isolating IC 405, The Flaming Star Nebula. That section of the sky has so many things to see it is almost a tourist-oriented nature-viewing area. Some of the highlights include tadpoles, starfish, spiders, flies, pinwheels and more. This is the equivalent of just about 56 minutes of exposure. * The Spider And The Fly by Mary Botham Howitt Messier Object M36 (The Pinwheel Cluster): https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-36-pinwheel-cluster/ Messier Object M38 (The Starfish Cluster): https://www.go-astronomy.com/messier.php?Messier=M38 IC 417 (The Spider Nebula): https://www.nasa.gov/image-article/spider-nebula/ NGC 1931 (The Fly Nebula): https://waid-observatory.com/ic417-2020-01-19-HOO.html IC 410 (The Tadpoles Nebula): https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ic410-the-tadpoles-nebula-a-star-nursery/ And, of course, IC 405 (The Flaming Star Nebula): https://theskylive.com/sky/deepsky/ic405-flaming-star-nebula-object Will the spider once again coax the fly into its parlour? Will the fly escape the machinations? Their exchange is in the sky for us to ponder...

Hi everyone I find why it did that, it was because I shot with the flash at the second curtain.

Also rocking the 27mm 2.8 lens for the VERY first time. The combo shocked me !

Because the sensor assembly is moved electrmagnetically. When there is no power it is essentially free moving.

Ahoy ye hearties! Hoist ye yon Jolly Roger and Cascade away. NGC 1502 The Jolly Roger Cluster: This is the equivalent of 43 minutes, 40 seconds of exposure. NGC 1502 is a neat little cluster located in the Camelopardalis Constellation. This region of space was thought to be fairly empty by early astronomers, but as you can see, there is a lot there. Kemble's Cascade (a.k.a. Kemble 1) is named for Father Lucian Kemble, a Canadian Franciscan friar who wrote about it to Walter Scott Houston, an author for the Sky And Telescope magazine. Houston named the asterism for Fr. Kemble and the name "stuck". NGC 1501 is the Oyster Nebula. A longer focal length telescope is needed to bring this one into good viewing range, but it is well worth the effort. NGC 1502: https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ngc-1502/ Camelopardalis Constellation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelopardalis Kemble's Cascade (and NGC 1501: The Oyster Nebula): https://www.constellation-guide.com/kembles-cascade/ Arrrrrr Matey.

love herons!

cool photo

playing around with ND filters, Indian River, DE

eagle was backlit with intense sunlight, waited a bit for him to take off

I own the Fuji X-T1 and X-H1. I own several Fuji lenses but I tend to use 3rd party vintage manual glass which I find quite enjoyable to use. I'm testing a photo here taken from my Flickr account that showcases the Tokina 100-300mm Zoom lens with 1.4 extender. [url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678730517_54489efae3_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr]300mm 1.4 blue jay[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/92395202@N07/]frankweiser[/url], on Flickr

I have the same issue on my X-Pro 1 and can no longer use lenses with no aperture ring. I contacted Fuji Tech several years ago and was told the camera would have to be disassembled and the mother board replaced at a couple hundred dollars. I was also told Fuji would no longer be repairing X-P1 as they stopped making parts for them. I did not check to see if any third party repair shops could fix it. Everything else on the camera works fine.

Switch the shutter to ES to prevent any possibility of the mechanical shutter going off while cleaning. Turn on the camera and leave it on Set IS mode to off. Clean.

Tulips

Hi. I'm from Spain. I jumped from film to digital with a Fuji S3 Pro many years ago (I still have it), then I've been using several Nikon bodies and way more lenses than I need 🤷‍♂️. I wanted a smaller, lighter and sexy body for traveling and casual use so I ended up with a XT30 II, a 35mm f2, a 16mm f2.8, a Godox TT350F and a X2T trigger. Now I'm extremely happy with my very small, very light and very powerful bag.

Hello, If you look in the top right-hand corner of each posting, there should be three dots in a row, like this —> … <—, click on them and after a moment or twelve, a small menu should drop down from the dots, the last entry in the menu is ‘Edit’. Choose that and after a moment or three you should be in edit mode for that entry. Note: Only you can edit your entries.

Jerry I found out it's a Cherry Blossom but I can't figure out how to edit it.

I understand the site has a need to bring in revenue but the "Advertisement" and "Ad" replies to every forum post are useless and annoying - seeing a possible response to your post and instead being sent to Amazon is just irritating - perhaps the site could switch back to normal ads.

Still goin' strong !!! Manual focus was a dream to use.

Caspian Tern, X-H2s, Fuji 150-600.

Cherry Blossom. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600.

Hi All, My name is Seppe and I'm in love with photography! Don't know how most of you guys take these beautiful shots, but I just love watching them. I'm thankful for the views of the world they give ma and the cultures I can explore. In times of trouble, these images can give people hope and show that there is still beauty on this blue marble. I've been trying for some time now to reproduce what I see from others and have come to the conclusion that that is impossible. I'll have to find my own style and for that, I wanted to join this Forum. I'm hoping that through the stories and topics on this forum, I can find the info needed to continue my photographic journey. Wishing you all a great day and weekend! Seppe

I tried a series of photos to show how vignetting works as the lens aperture is varied, for the Laowa fisheye. I took outdoor shots low to the ground on a tripod, as I adjusted the aperture ring through each labeled f/ stop detent. Shutter speed was automatic. I pasted a middle slice through the circular image for each aperture into a single slide, then labeled and marked that to post here. The aperture is indicated off the right end of each slice. A red line marks the horizontal center. The slices all contain the same pixel locations from the photos and were treated identically. The photos themselves were all done identically except for the manual aperture settings and the automatic shutter speeds compensating for them. You can see the ends of the slices are darkened for larger apertures but it improves as aperture is reduced. I kind of figure that at f/8 and narrower I'm unlikely to notice the vignetting in most pictures. Of course, fisheyes are easy to get enough light into, even handheld in dim conditions.

It sounds like you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction turned on in your menu settings. LENR is a way of removing hot pixels and some other types of noise that can creep into the images when you are taking long exposures. You can turn it off in the menu and leave it off and get twice as many exposures than you were getting. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Based on your earlier comment, I dusted off the Fuji X App that I had on my iPhone — uploaded a fresh version, and figured out backup/restore with the Fuji X App. And, as you say, IT WORKS. I’m sure that I’ll keep several flavors of settings handy as you have done. But the reason that I really wanted to make backup/restore work is because I have, and shoot with, two X-T4s. And it is very handy to have the same settings on both cameras. Thanks to your emails, I have purged Fujifilm X Acquire from all my systems and now climbed in bed with Fuji X App. Many thanks for your help. And if sometime you find yourself resting, have a look at WWW.TOMCARROLLPHOTOGRAPHY.COM Thanks again TC

Perhaps you’re using the electronic shutter. Try the mechanical one for flashing.

Many thanks for your reply. I do use a. MacBookPro with FUJIFILM X ACQUIRE. And as you suggest, I have made sure that X ACQUIRE has access to all PHOTOS and FILES AND FOLDERS. Also, all of my X-T4 and X100V and ACQUIRE software and firmware is up to date. NO JOY. All I see is BACKUP DATA LOAD ERROR. I have not tried iPhone backup — I’ll give that a try. Fuji makes such beautiful cameras and such God-awful software. Such a pity. Thanks for your input. TC

It usually takes about a week or a few days longer. After taking the battery out, turning the power switch to ‘On’ has been mentioned as helping speed things up, I do not know one way or another about that, but I should mention it.

Yup, catadioptric lenses wipe out CA from your images, they have a few drawbacks; the design means they start off at telephoto focal lengths with fixed apertures and there is a teeny tiny “hole” in the image middle (this is not a big issue, it is usually never noticeable, but it is there). They also tend to be a little heavy and occasionally need adjusting to keep the mirror part collimated. They give you pretty good images. As I recall, Minolta made a catadioptric lens that could auto focus, this was taken over by Sony who still makes the lens for one of their bodies, but no one else makes one. There are several manual focus ones for Fujilfilm’s X-mount bodies. Achromatic lenses do remove red-blue fringing, you can often find these types in those screw on macro-diopter lenses or in old box landscape cameras. But they have a problem with green fringing as it is not corrected at all. To get all three fringings, red-blue-green, folks have shifted over to Apochromatic designs. These are found in high end telephoto camera lenses and more often in refractor telescopes — the triplet design. They currently tend to be expensive.

Hi I have tried to make Northern lights photos the first time in my life. I used 2000 ASA, f2.8 and 2 seconds. The aurora borealis was moving around quite fast and with more than 2 seconds the pictures came out like fuzzy mush. To find infinity on the fully manual Laowa lens has to be done in advance, I marked it on the body of the lens. What do you think about the result? Kind regards, Hannes

I didn't introduce myself on my first post .. I do it now .. happy to be here .. I own a X-70, bought new many years ago. Ciao! ☺️

I'm personally not a fan of Fujinon lenses in general, zoom lenses in particular although there are a few good (expensive) ones out there and this image does not look sharp to me. .No offence intended - just my opinion. Any teleconverter will also degrade sharpness and your image is a good example of this. I use a Canon EF400 f5.6 (on my X-T4) with the K&F EF-FX adapter at a total combined cost of approximately £600 GBP and obtain results better than this..pse see attached.

can't remember if I shared here, was playing with settings in the XT5, always loved this scene on the NCR trail. XT5, 16-80, 16mm, I think.

Probably no worries, but don't use those adhesive things on a stick. In my opinion they are a flawed idea.

In all frankness I find the camera rather more complicated that it needs to be ( for me that is) and in some cases downright awkward with functions that are there but only work , for example, in MS or with more than one setting to be switched in or out. My answer to it is to use the camera with the functions that I need and keep the other functions in mind (and that’s why I wanted a NEW small portable manual, like the one I have from when the camera was new, with all the new functions in it and with simple instructions as in: if you want to do this, do 1, 2, 3... Some members told me to buy a book that another member wrote (which is definitely too big to take with me and wouldn’t be as coincise as I had in mind because you can’t charge good money for what I had in mind). Yes.......as they say, keep it simple. If Fuji can’t , we can.

Your pictures are simply stunning. Just beautiful work. I very recently took many photos at my daughter's wedding, exclusively using my X-T1 (with v3.1 FW). I was extremely happy with the results (as was the bride) and I was able to provide her with an early look exclusively with SOOC JPGs, which gave me more time to do some extra work in Lightroom on the RAWs. The images required very little or sometimes no PP work and the camera did a fantastic job. To be fair, the entire event was shot in a brightly lit room (natural light through windows), so flash was basically unnecessary. Fuji's one weakness is in the area of flash support, and I might have been a little less enthusiastic about the results if the wedding had taken place in a poorly lit venue. Either way, I fully agree with your comment about the future of DSLRs. There certainly are none in my future for sure. Thanks so much for sharing.