Leaderboard

Two days old.

X-T4; Fujinon XF150-600mmF5.6-8 R LM OIS WR; 1/2000; f7.1; ISO640; 500mm; hand held...

Sorry, fat finger. Meant AF-C - auto focus continuous

I use a Fujifilm 16mm i.e. a 24mm equivalent lens. I can do a whole car meeting with just that lens and the Fujifilm 33mm lens. In the past I have used 35mm/28mm on Leica cameras. At the next car meeting I will go to it will be the Fuji XF16mm and the GF 30 on a GFX. Have a look here: US Cars with XF16mm all shots with the 16mm and for a fun test, all videos with the GFX and GF 50.

Here's another Robin.

Here are a couple taken with my new X-T5 (new body) and 100-400 (used lens!). I'm still getting used to the camera, but so far so good. Thanks.

You have all done a great job keeping this thread dignified and manageable. I was afraid it would become a crazy free-for-all but everybody has exceeded expectations. I have an unfair advantage now, because I have just received the following information from B&H Photo: Shipped! ETA: Thursday, Jun 29 Shipping Method: Fdx Home Delivery

1) The subject detection options will attempt to detect the shape of the subject (such as bird) - it doesn't matter what the bird is doing - although it finds it easier if there is good light and it can see an obvious bird head or eye. It will fallback to your AF Mode if it doesn't detect the subject. You can't select a Photometry option when Subject Detection is set. 2) Some of these are switches (like Subject Detection) which applies the action immediately and some take you to menu (like AF Mode) 3) I tend to leave OIS on in Shooting Only mode all the time but some think you should turn it off for high shutter speeds

1) I'm no expert at the focus modes but I believe "bird" is just a fine tune to help it track birds. I would still expect you would need ASPC to track a moving bird. 3) Keep in mind that Image Stabilization is for camera movement only, not subject movement. I would use to help steady your motions but you still need the appropriate shutter speed to get the motion blur or not that you want.

Ok, I freely admit my sense of humor stop developing at 12 y/o so I found this funny as hell, even if it was just and accidental mis-spell.

thanks a lot! 3 days ago I found the 23mm F1.4 R which must be the equivalent of 35mm on Sony, I'm going to try it tomorrow Looks like 50mm F1.0 must be used for half car or details to ensure "correct" looking imagines Maybe I must buy Fuji 35mm F1.4 to have the most flexible lens for car photography?

The types of distortions that would appear are barrel or pin-cushion distortions, but this shot does not seem to have any. The 35mm is in the “wide-angle” lens group and the 50mm is in the “normal” lens group. Going from the wider to the narrower will give you some lens compression effect, where things look a little more smushed together. That effect is more pronounced going from wide angle to telephoto, i.e. lenses 70mm or longer. Looking correct is subjective, if you were used to the 50mm - 70mm range, you would probably not have noticed this effect when you changed from the Sony world.

You don't have distortions. Look at the ends of the exhaust pipes, and the wheels on the blue contraptions. They look perfectly circular to me. If you want the perspective to seem right, you have to view your image from different distances depending on the lens focal length. You want the angle your eye sees between edges of the photo to match the real life angle between edges of the scene. If you do that, even the famous giant nose effect from close up wide angle portraits goes away.

X-H2S, XF100-400+TC1.4x - Reed Warbler

I wonder how many former members of the Leica forum are here... my old spiritual home... no longer since I left Leica and went Fuji. biglouis

Female Belted Kingfisher Waldport, OR. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600.

Welcome Louis! You are aware that it's the same management as in the Leica Forum? Andreas