SGinNorcal

The newer version has WR, better stabilization, a numbered aperture ring (original had ring but you had to look at screen for f-stop), and a lock for the auto setting on the aperature.

I haven't shot with the 18-55 but my 16-80 is my most used Fuji lens due to the super versatile focal range. I don't find it heavy, its very similar in size to the 10-24 and uses the same filter size. The 18-55 is at f4 by around 42mm and the 16-80 is F4 constant throughout. I shoot quite a bit at 16mm and 80mm, I would hate to lose the extremes. But maybe looks at your own shots with the 18-55, are you often at the extremes wanting more?

I love the 16-80 lens. Its a super versatile range, has great build quality, weather sealing, great OIS, is reasonably compact, and has constant aperture. I have primes at 18f1.4, 23f2, 33f1.4, 50f2 and yes, I would agree that ultimate image quality on those prime lenses are better. If that wasn't the case, prime lenses would be pretty pointless. For outdoor, landscape shots in good light, when I'm not sure what focal length I'll need next, its hard to beat the 16-80mm and its my most used lens. Bad light, indoors, go to a f1.4 or f2 lens.

I don't know this camera specifically but most Fuji's set to AFC (auto focus continuous) make more noise. If you aren't shooting actively moving objects, you might switch to AFS (auto focus shutter).

Not sure I know how to describe it. To me, it has a familiar Fuji Gfx look in a wide angle if that means anything to you. It can capture a big wide view with great detail and also has pretty good detail used closer up. It even has pretty good bokeh for this type of lens. Sunstars are kind of ordinary but I haven't played with that too much. AF is a little faster than the 32-64 and seems accurate. I've not used the 23 but for me this lens is exceptional. I've never seen a zoom lens in this focal range anywhere close to this good and I think it would rival the primes in optical quality.

Any X mount should work with the XH2. What lens are you referring too?

You can pick up Fuji's F2 for very little on the used market. The 23, 35, and 50 F2's are great little lenses, have AF, weather sealing, and great optical quality. Typical used prices for any of them are $275-300 and they really aren't dropping anymore. So if you change paths later, they will be worth what you paid for them. Maybe try the MF Rokinon 12mm and the Fuji 35 or 50 to get started. Use the Fuji as your portrait lens where AF might be really useful.

The 70-300 is a great lens but there has to be some compromises made for the small size, weight, and cost. I would think max focal length, wide open, hand held, close object is going to show that. Back in 35mm film days, we used to have a simple rule that shutter speed has to be at least as high as the focal length. So a 70mm shot, 1/70 of a second and 300mm, 1/300 of a second. That "rule" doesn't apply anymore thanks to OIS but the ratio is still pretty valid. As mentioned, most lenses are better stopped down a couple stops, where at 300, you were wide open. Also, ISO 3200 is getting pretty high and you might be seeing noise in there. Its fine to shoot that high when you must have the shot and that's the only way. But I wouldn't want to evaluate clarity at that point. The 70-300 is pretty slow for using indoors. Try it outside in some good light and you might be more impressed.

I don't know why the purple stripe. When you have seen it before, was it on similar photos that have blown out highlights? It looks like high ISO, wide open aperture, just way too much light.

You realize M is manual focus mode? Also, the min focus distance has to be met or no focus. I believe the min focus is longer with the 1.4 attached.

I'm glad you like a 2x heavier, unstabilized lens, it must be challenging to carry and to hold steady. It does appear sharp but the colors look washed out. The 70-300 is really good for its size and weight.

For the OP, I would stop down a stop or two and drop the ISO down quite a bit. Like Dave C says, use a small focus zone.

I have the Gfx50S and XT5. Its surprising how close the XT5 can get to the Gfx. I just uploaded some shots from the North CA coast, I was shooting both. Capture One lists the shots by time of day so going through them alternates for each camera. At times it was easy when I had the 70-300 on the XT5. But when shooting with a shorter focal length on the XT5, its not as noticeable without zooming into the photo. The Gfx will hold much more detail once you punch into the shot. While the Gfx has higher IQ, if I had to own just one, it would be the XT5, its just much more versatile.

I have the GF20-35 and like it very much. I find it tough to shoot ultrawide primes without constantly changing lenses. The usual reduction on optical quality doesn't seem to apply to the 20-35. I'm kind of the opposite, use longer lenses on the XT5 since they are so much smaller.

Do we have to promise to like what you write? I'm kidding. Sounds potentially interesting. Some of us shoot Gfx and APSC.

Fx and x mount seemed to be used interchangeably so yes, they will work. Along with those suggested, the Fuji 23mm F2 is great and cheap on the used market. But if you will have just one for some time, the 18-55 is probably the most versatile for the price.

So you can buy new cameras but can't send them back? Could you be mistaking motion blur for out of focus? If you have situations where you can't manual focus then something must be wrong with your camera. I've been using my XT5 for 10 months and I've never once accidently changed to video.

I does seem like Fuji could have easily made the function a choice to accommodate users like you as well others that prefer how it is now. Its possible that it was changed due to people complaining about the other way around. I Googled and found a couple complaints about the XH-1 and people who wanted Peaking Highlights to stay on that camera when shutter half pushed. Something to do with macro shooting. I have large hands and with my index finger on the shutter, my middle finger is next to the Fn2 button. I find it easy to push without looking. But again, I had no history with the function like you do. I kind of reminds me of driving a new rental car last week and trying to adjust the radio. All the controls are tied into the Infotainment now and all I wanted was some stinking music but the controls were buried in a pile of useless options. And that is only getting worse.

I am not acting as an apologist, I was trying to help you out. But once I set up for myself, I think its better the way it is now with a cleaner work flow even if it is another button to push. It seems like a super small detail to get shook up about. I get that we get used to things a certain way and change is hard to adjust to but why not give it a try? I think that is a quicker fix than waiting for Fuji to change it but suit yourself.

I get that you don't like the change but you can complain, or use this simple fix and move on. I suspect you will adapt to this in a couple of days of shooting. What you are missing here is that you need to assign the MF Assist function to a custom function. Then assign the custom function to function button. In fact this two step method will allow you to assign any menu function available to the camera to a function button, not just limited quick list they give you. In the example I gave, create Custom 1 to turn MF Assist to Off. Then assign C1 to Fn2 button. Maybe its easier for me, not having the muscle memory from the old camera. But I really like this setup with Focus Peak Highlighting on as a default then when I don't want it, hitting the Fn2 button. I like it when shooting landscape and focused to infinity. Focus highlighting isnt much use in that scenario and I want to tweak exposure settings without highlighting on. Doing a shutter half press would be strange when still working out exposure.

I have the XT-5 and I can assure you the menu system has a MF Assist with an option to turn it off. When you go to the Menu, are you first going to the AF/MF category and scrolling down to the second page, you will see MF Assist. Go into that and one of the options is OFF. This is the same menu where you change the color for Focus Peaking. You seem determined to not see this and complain about Fuji. The functionality hasn't changed just the default setting. With this tiny bit of customization, you can control it yourself rather than it automatically shutting off. I think this is inline with the nature of the camera, program what you want and don't have things fixed a certain way that can't be changed.

I think of those sample photos where it shows the different focal lengths and the field of view of each. It seems like nothing. Yet in use, it seems a much bigger difference. For me, I haven't found the need to try a FL between 23 and 33, but those two seem like distinctly different choices. I think you have to get a feel for the difference. If you want more background info go wide, more detail close up go tighter.

Push the rear command dial and scroll through the AF modes.

What I'm suggesting is a button to turn off MF Peak highlighting when you are already in Manual focus mode. I abbreviated the instructions, should be: IQ menu, scroll to Edit/Save Custom Setting, select the number you want, C1, C2, whatever, then pick MF Asist, then Off. Then go back to the Custom Button menu, hold down Disp/Back until it comes up. You can now assign your custom setting C1 or C whatever to button Fn2 (or another button you aren't using) Now when you are shooting in MF mode, you compose and if you want to see it without highlighting, just hit the button you program and it turns highlighting off. Hit it again, back on. I used the Fn2 button because for me, that button is easily reached while you are looking thought the View finder. But you might find another button easier. The only difference for you is pushing the custom button rather than half pushing the shutter. The camera doesn't automatically do it for you, you control the timing.

The Fuji XF23mmF2 is not a pancake but it is very small and would be a nice fit on the XS-20. And its an excellent lens that is sharp and fun to use. Its not great at close focusing but otherwise very good. If you will consider a used one, you should be able to pick one up for $300.