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Probably this: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx100s/menu_shooting/image_quality_setting/#clarity

Fixed. Thank you. The act of adding items to MY MENY activates it, then it is prioritised when you press the MENU button. I removed all the MY MENU items, which deactivated MY MENU, now the last Menu item is remembered.

So I ended up getting and X-H2 over the X-T5 because of a good deal that came up. Needing to buy a card, I needed to figure out, what is the real impact of a card's speed for photos? In particular, I'm going to test how shooting at 15 FPS will differ between: Angelbird - AV PRO CFexpress B SE - 512 GB and Angelbird AV PRO CFexpress SX - 160 GB. How many shots can I get off before buffer fills, and how long does it take for the buffer to clear? MOP: X-H2 Factory rest, card formated, no lens (body cap on), performance boost on, manual exposure, mechanical SS @ 1/8000, IS off, Shoting RAW Compressed Lossless with only one card in. Held shutter release till buffer filled, and used stop watch to see how long for buffer to clear. Subtracted two frames from total taken as that's how long it takes me to release the trigger once the buffer is full. Repeat 2x for sanity check. ***TEST RESULTS*** ~~~64GB Lexar Pro SD 150MB/s~~~ 75 shots to fill buffer, 36 Seconds to clear it ~~~Angelbird AV Pro SX 160GB~~~ 251 shots to fill buffer, 5 Seconds to clear it .~~~Angelbird AV Pro SE 512GB~~~ 232 shots to fill buffer, 4 Seconds to clear it ***Conculsion*** If burst shooting an X-H2 at 15 FPS is your thing, buy the Anglebird 512GB SE for the same price as the 160GB SX. Below is a shot on X-T2 w/ the Fuji 70-300. I manged to fluke it off with a dead battery by turning the camera off and on again, and squeezing three more shots out (this was the last shot). Ta for now!

It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.

Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

Hi everyone !!

Don't own and haven't used the 16mm. But I wouldn't take to much stock in "the list". The only two I have on it are the 33f1.4 and 23f2 and they do produce sharp images. I also have the 10-24, 16-80, 55-200 and they are excellent lens as well. Also, while the 18mm1.4 prime is on there, the 18-55 is not and most people find the 16-80 to have equal or better detail than the 18-55. Its usually safe to assume that a compact zoom is going to have slightly lower IQ at the same focal length as a prime. I haven't seen anything the disrupts that simplification. For me the bulky zooms, 16-55 and 50-140 don't fit the form factor I am after and I'm not going to lug them around so I don't have them. The compact zooms fulfill a need when you know you will be shooting with a variety of focal lengths or simply don't know what to prepare for and don't want to be constantly swapping lenses. In my case, the 10-24 is the most extreme example. If I pixel peep, its not that impressive. But shoot a beautiful wide scene at 10 to 12mm and it can provide an awesome shot you wouldn't get with a more general purpose lens. Maybe find a used f2 lens with the 18-55 range that suits you and play around with it. You will see what I am referring too. Picking a lens is always a compromise.

Taxi !!

Fuji xt2 and xf 18-55

Nope. I've tried all different ways and no joy. I tried putting a timecode on an audio track but couldn't get Tentacle Sync (Windows version) or LTC Convert to read it. (Tried this route as Premiere doesn't read timecode from the camera) The last two might be my fault though. I wonder if the new HS2 will accept it?