Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Cpl of questions

1. As it does not have any electronic connection with the camera, does it mean I won't be able to see the aperture number on the display?
2. Is it a bad choice for street photography as it's a manual lens? You can see what kind of shots I take https://500px.com/filiphermelin 
3. Is it near impossible to nail focus on moving subjects? What's the technique you would use?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Not sure about Mitakon, but any adapted lens reads F1 and as all MF lenses have marked Aperture ring you always know your settings.
2. For decades, decades and decades MF lenses were the only option for all types of photography. I shoot film a lot, so I shoot MF and have no problem with street photo.
3. The only condition you may have issues with nailing focus on moving subjects is darkness, when the SS falls lower then 1/60 or 1/250 depends on moving speed.

That technique called Zone focusing (a lot of explanations and youtube videos). You need DOF calculator ( https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof ) and to remember how far is 5 and 10 meters away is.
Let's say you are shootig during the day and going to capture some scene at least 10 meters away (everything closer then 5 meters with 35mm lense I would consider "street portraiture"). Usually street photography assumes planty of DOF so it's F8 and more. Thus our calculator said that everything from 4.34m to infinity we would have in focus.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

So you select 10m and F8 on your lens and don't bother about AF any longer, just correctly estimate 10m distance - plus/minus 3m. Do some practice. )

Another scenario is the low light conditions when you need to open your lens. But even with F2.8 you will have almost 12m of DOF.
 

Edited by mdm
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 7/1/2019 at 3:34 PM, mdm said:

1. Not sure about Mitakon, but any adapted lens reads F1 and as all MF lenses have marked Aperture ring you always know your settings.
2. For decades, decades and decades MF lenses were the only option for all types of photography. I shoot film a lot, so I shoot MF and have no problem with street photo.
3. The only condition you may have issues with nailing focus on moving subjects is darkness, when the SS falls lower then 1/60 or 1/250 depends on moving speed.

That technique called Zone focusing (a lot of explanations and youtube videos). You need DOF calculator ( https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof ) and to remember how far is 5 and 10 meters away is.
Let's say you are shootig during the day and going to capture some scene at least 10 meters away (everything closer then 5 meters with 35mm lense I would consider "street portraiture"). Usually street photography assumes planty of DOF so it's F8 and more. Thus our calculator said that everything from 4.34m to infinity we would have in focus.

 

So you select 10m and F8 on your lens and don't bother about AF any longer, just correctly estimate 10m distance - plus/minus 3m. Do some practice. )

Another scenario is the low light conditions when you need to open your lens. But even with F2.8 you will have almost 12m of DOF.
 

Thank you for reply!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II

  • Aperture ring is step-less, and it has same texture as focus ring and similar rotation effort.
  • It's just named 35mm, but actually it is wider 33mm lens.
  • Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy.
  • Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid.
  • I'd recommend to check other pictures taken with this lens.
  • Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure.
  • When aperture is wide open and you shake the lens - it is producing moving noise inside - that are aperture blades, and it is normal.
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 7/4/2019 at 10:57 PM, yukosteel said:

Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II

 

  • Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy.
  • Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid.
  • Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure

UGH, sounds like a a lot of work

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

Just considering getting this lens too - have found one for sale secondhand.

Is the version sold compatible with the XT3 without adaption ? ie there is isn't a specific X mount version, Sony version, etc, etc ?

The seller hasn't been very specific in the description.

Nick

Edited by NSK_AUDIO
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Just received my 0.95 MK II, I’m surprise to find out that the focus ring doesn’t have the same resistance thoughout all the focal distance. Bellow 0,50m focus ring turns with a bit more resistance. Just curious to know if this is a normal behaviour in this lens.

How hard it is to relub the helicoid of this lens?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 9/18/2019 at 7:29 AM, Cokas said:

Just received my 0.95 MK II, I’m surprise to find out that the focus ring doesn’t have the same resistance thoughout all the focal distance. Bellow 0,50m focus ring turns with a bit more resistance. Just curious to know if this is a normal behaviour in this lens.

How hard it is to relub the helicoid of this lens?

Here's article on disassembly related to your question:

https://yukosteel.wordpress.com/2019/08/19/mitakon-zhongyi-35mm-f0-95-mark-ii-part-3/

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
×
×
  • Create New...