Mitakon 35 f/0.95 MKII

[Hermelin]

Cpl of questions

1. As it does not have any electronic connection with the camera, does it mean I won't be able to see the aperture number on the display?
2. Is it a bad choice for street photography as it's a manual lens? You can see what kind of shots I take https://500px.com/filiphermelin 
3. Is it near impossible to nail focus on moving subjects? What's the technique you would use?

 

[mdm]

1. Not sure about Mitakon, but any adapted lens reads F1 and as all MF lenses have marked Aperture ring you always know your settings.
2. For decades, decades and decades MF lenses were the only option for all types of photography. I shoot film a lot, so I shoot MF and have no problem with street photo.
3. The only condition you may have issues with nailing focus on moving subjects is darkness, when the SS falls lower then 1/60 or 1/250 depends on moving speed.

That technique called Zone focusing (a lot of explanations and youtube videos). You need DOF calculator ( https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof ) and to remember how far is 5 and 10 meters away is.
Let's say you are shootig during the day and going to capture some scene at least 10 meters away (everything closer then 5 meters with 35mm lense I would consider "street portraiture"). Usually street photography assumes planty of DOF so it's F8 and more. Thus our calculator said that everything from 4.34m to infinity we would have in focus.

 

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So you select 10m and F8 on your lens and don't bother about AF any longer, just correctly estimate 10m distance - plus/minus 3m. Do some practice. )

Another scenario is the low light conditions when you need to open your lens. But even with F2.8 you will have almost 12m of DOF.
 

Edited July 1, 2019 by mdm

[Hermelin]

On 7/1/2019 at 3:34 PM, mdm said:

1. Not sure about Mitakon, but any adapted lens reads F1 and as all MF lenses have marked Aperture ring you always know your settings.
2. For decades, decades and decades MF lenses were the only option for all types of photography. I shoot film a lot, so I shoot MF and have no problem with street photo.
3. The only condition you may have issues with nailing focus on moving subjects is darkness, when the SS falls lower then 1/60 or 1/250 depends on moving speed.

That technique called Zone focusing (a lot of explanations and youtube videos). You need DOF calculator ( https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof ) and to remember how far is 5 and 10 meters away is.
Let's say you are shootig during the day and going to capture some scene at least 10 meters away (everything closer then 5 meters with 35mm lense I would consider "street portraiture"). Usually street photography assumes planty of DOF so it's F8 and more. Thus our calculator said that everything from 4.34m to infinity we would have in focus.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

So you select 10m and F8 on your lens and don't bother about AF any longer, just correctly estimate 10m distance - plus/minus 3m. Do some practice. )

Another scenario is the low light conditions when you need to open your lens. But even with F2.8 you will have almost 12m of DOF.
 

Thank you for reply!

[yukosteel]

Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II

• Aperture ring is step-less, and it has same texture as focus ring and similar rotation effort.
• It's just named 35mm, but actually it is wider 33mm lens.
• Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy.
• Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid.
• I'd recommend to check other pictures taken with this lens.
• Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure.
• When aperture is wide open and you shake the lens - it is producing moving noise inside - that are aperture blades, and it is normal.

[Hermelin]

On 7/4/2019 at 10:57 PM, yukosteel said:

Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II

 

• Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy.
• Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid.
• Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure

UGH, sounds like a a lot of work

[yukosteel]

That's not always required : ) Most samples work great out of the box.

[NSK_AUDIO]

Hi,

Just considering getting this lens too - have found one for sale secondhand.

Is the version sold compatible with the XT3 without adaption ? ie there is isn't a specific X mount version, Sony version, etc, etc ?

The seller hasn't been very specific in the description.

Nick

Edited July 28, 2019 by NSK_AUDIO

[Hermelin]

I also wonder if it's a better idea to use a camera with a big EVF such as the X-T2 as manual focus must be easier when you have a big VF compared to a smaller like the X-Pro2

[Cokas]

Just received my 0.95 MK II, I’m surprise to find out that the focus ring doesn’t have the same resistance thoughout all the focal distance. Bellow 0,50m focus ring turns with a bit more resistance. Just curious to know if this is a normal behaviour in this lens.

How hard it is to relub the helicoid of this lens?

[yukosteel]

On 9/18/2019 at 7:29 AM, Cokas said:

Just received my 0.95 MK II, I’m surprise to find out that the focus ring doesn’t have the same resistance thoughout all the focal distance. Bellow 0,50m focus ring turns with a bit more resistance. Just curious to know if this is a normal behaviour in this lens.

How hard it is to relub the helicoid of this lens?

Here's article on disassembly related to your question:

https://yukosteel.wordpress.com/2019/08/19/mitakon-zhongyi-35mm-f0-95-mark-ii-part-3/