How can you avoid banding using the mechanical shutter under fluorescent lights?

[HarrisDPI]

Hi all,

 

just wondering if anyone has the answer to this issue that has been plaguing me for months.

 

Under fluorescent lighting using the mechanical (as opposed to electronic) shutter I am experiencing really nasty banding.

 

I can lessen the effect by changing the shutter speed but this does not entirely solve the problem.  

 

Anyone out there have a workable solution for this?

 

(I am also wondering if my X-T1 could be faulty).

 

Be really grateful to hear from you.

 

Cheers,

 

Jason.

 

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[Trenton Talbot]

This is an inherent issue with some fluorescent and CFL fixtures that have a very short afterglow on their phosphorus. Also applies to LED lights on a dimmer (no afterglow at all).

 

Try slower shutter speeds – much slower, like 1/10 of a second. Unfortunately, there's nothing else you can do about it.

[JonasRask]

Flicker is following the electrical current fluctuations. So, when in europe use a shutter speed dividable in 60 Hz. eg. 1/30, 1/60, 1/120 etc.... In US.... dividable in 50 Hz, eg 1/25, 1/50, 1/100 etc.



"Flicker is usually a potential problem only with lighting that requires the use of ballasts, like fluorescent lights. Incandescent lights usually do not cause a flicker problem since the light filaments generally do not cool quickly enough (and make the light dimmer) during the "off" time as the voltage changes in the AC power line.

The type of ballast, which controls the electrical supply to fluorescent lights, affects the amount of flicker. Magnetic ballasts change the voltage supplied to the fluorescent lamps but do not alter the frequency - the power line frequency of 60 Hz. The ultraviolet (UV) light produced inside the fluorescent light tube also fluctuates 120 times per second. The phosphorescence (the fluorescent light) resulting from the UV shining on the phosphor coatings inside the light tube is sufficiently stable (i.e., lasts long enough) to even out the variations in the fluorescent light output."

[HarrisDPI]

Very grateful for the incredibly detailed replies chaps.

 

I figured there might only be a work around solution, so am certainly going to try the dividing/multiplying in 60's.

 

Unfrortunately it sounds as though this is something Fuji wouldn't even be able to address and resolve in a future firmware update.

 

Best wishes.

[jeremyclarke]

Flicker is following the electrical current fluctuations. So, when in europe use a shutter speed dividable in 60 Hz. eg. 1/30, 1/60, 1/120 etc.... In US.... dividable in 50 Hz, eg 1/25, 1/50, 1/100 etc.

 

Fascinating! I'll have to keep this in mind next time it comes up. 

 

Of course the other option: Get nicer lighting! Obviously not always a choice but in a room like your example you could probably get away with blasting a flash on the presumably-white walls and you'd get a much better look all around. 

[azmmount]

Flicker is following the electrical current fluctuations. So, when in europe use a shutter speed dividable in 60 Hz. eg. 1/30, 1/60, 1/120 etc.... In US.... dividable in 50 Hz, eg 1/25, 1/50, 1/100 etc.

 

Is this backwards? US is 60hz electric and Europe is 50hz.