Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I know this is an older post and it took me months to adopt the Peak Design system because I hated the thought either a split ring and a leather protective pad between the camera lug and the anchor or popping out the protective bushings.    Then I saw the small oblong split rings Peak supplied.   With a little tab of electric tape for extra scratch resistance (I will replace one day by sliding over a small piece of rubber hose) I am happier than direct connect.

I used the optech uni-loop for a long time and the only drawback (beside the huge plastic connectors) was that the system didn't quite flow so when you had no strap on the connectors stuck out.  With a split ring the PD move fluidly and I like that.

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

So glad you are happy with your transition to PD. Nice touch with the temporary electrical tape and final rubber hose. Electrical heat shrink tubing is another alternative to the rubber hose. You'll just have to shield the camera body when shrinking the tubing with heat.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello,

I bought today the Peak Design L-AS-3 and Peak Design CF-AS-3 from Amazon, I don't know if they are comming with V3 or V4 version.

I'm use Fuji X-T3 and I think that is not possible to use the anchors directly to eyelet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I bought the SLL-XX-3 sling to use with my XT-3.   I wish I found this forum earlier.  I did not thread the anchors thorough the camera, instead used the triangle metal clips that were there from original strap.  A few weeks ago was had the camera over my shoulders, and the anchor managed to thread its way out of the triangle clip and XT-3 fell onto concrete.  Now Camera and Lens are at Fuji for repair =(

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 11/8/2018 at 1:06 PM, FoToEdge said:

Without Camera Eyelet Alteration, I am using the Anchor Connectors on my X-T1, X-T2, X30 and X-T20.  I pull dental floss through the eyelet and thread it through the Anchor Loop and thread my dental floss back through the camera eyelet.  I then hold both pieces of the dental floss and pull the Anchor Loop through the eyelet on the camera.  I then loop the Anchor mount through it's on Loop and I am done. I have no idea why anyone can't do this.  I do the same on my Panasonic Lumix cameras. 

Greetings @FoToEdge. May I ask if your PD Anchor Links cord would be the thinner V3 version or the thicker V4 where people deem them as thicker rendering it impossible to pass through the XT3 eyelets? I have the V4 and I'm unsure whether to consider pushing that inner metal ring found within the eyelets (which may pose the risk of scratching the side of the camera should you commit an error) OR to just buy circular lugs just like what @TerryB did on his Fuji Cam unit?

Thank you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...