FoToEdge

I am now even using my Peak Design V3 Anchors on my Sony RX100M6 using the Dental Floss again to pull it through. If I can do that, Fuji X Cameras are a Breeze!

Without Camera Eyelet Alteration, I am using the Anchor Connectors on my X-T1, X-T2, X30 and X-T20. I pull dental floss through the eyelet and thread it through the Anchor Loop and thread my dental floss back through the camera eyelet. I then hold both pieces of the dental floss and pull the Anchor Loop through the eyelet on the camera. I then loop the Anchor mount through it's on Loop and I am done. I have no idea why anyone can't do this. I do the same on my Panasonic Lumix cameras.

I have only used dental floss and I never have needed to remove the inner collars either.

I pulled my Peak Design Anchors through the eyelet on my X-T1 and X-T2 with a piece of clean dental floss. Once through, I looped the dental floss through the anchor cord and put it back through the eyelet. I then pulled the Anchor Cord Through with no problems. I can see not wear on the cords after 6 months of use.

I have used the 18-135mm on my 2 different X-T1 cameras and also on m X-T10. It was fast enough because of the stabilization and also because I shoot at 400 ISO and 1600 regularly. I think it is about the same quality as I have had experience with in the past with the Nikon 18-135mm and Canon 18-135mm. I would not buy a non-stabilized Fuji Lens, so I have no use for the 16-55mm. Also the 16-55 is very heavy. I think I will stick with the 18-55mm kit lens which is brighter and sharper than any of these 18-135mm zooms. I do not understand why Fujifilm is so deaf and blind to our needs for a mid-level walkaround lens in the range of 16-80mm F4 Stabilized Lens, which every other manufacturer has available at an affordable price. I am thinking of jumping back to the Olympus & Panasonic Systems because of the choice and affordability of lenses.

All I need is the new Sensor and Better AutoFocus, & a Flip Style LCD Screen.

You really have covered all my desires in the X100Z or whatever name, but I sure would love to have built in geotagging instead of having to connect to my phone. If you are concerned about battery life or privacy, just put a shut off switch on the Q-Menu.

Tilt Screen or Fully Articulating LCD. Built in Geo-tagging or an add on unit like the Pentax & Canon to slip in the hotshoe. Exposure Comp Dial to Remain on the top. Film Simulation Bracketing of 2,3,4,5,6,7 shots at once. As well as Exp Bracketing of 2,3,4,5,6,7. A better EVF. I do not need an iso separate dial. All FN buttons fully customizable. Weatherproofed.

I have been using the 18-135mm and do like the image quality, but the size and weight on my X-T1 is not much lighter than my APS Nikon. I am really sick that the 16-55 did not have stabilization. I would love anything with an F4 with an aperture ring and built in stabilization starting at 16mm and going as long as possible keeping the size at about that of the Fujifilm 18-55mm. I keep trying other people's micro 4/3rd's cameras and unless some reasonable, smaller and stabilized lens come out soon from Fujifilm I will make the jump to a smaller sensor. With the good high speed quality of Fuji's at ISO 800 or even 1600, I could live with slower lenses to keep the weight and size down. I do not like that Fujifilm has not upgraded the X-E2 for so long. I prefer a left eyed range finder without the useless "Mirror" Bump in the Middle. Why can't they just take some of the good stuff out of the X-T10 and incorporate it into a rangefinder for $799 to $899? In-Body Stabilization would be wonderful and can help keep the lens sizes smaller. I would like a fully articulating LCD Screen, so I can turn it towards the camera body most of the time to protect it from scrapping on coat buttons - zippers. Once and awhile I need that type of LCD to shoot over a fence or at "Doggy" Level. So there you go, with my 2 Cents Worth!

I would love to see Film Stimulation Bracketing of 2 styles, 3 styles, 4 styles, 5 styles, all at the same time that you can simultaneously shoot a RAW image. Bracketing of 2, 3,4,5,6,7,8 and 9 with all of the bracketing options from film simulation, exposure Compensation, white balance, sharpness, NR, Saturation, etc. After all, these cameras are really computers and nothing is impossible to add. And the 3 things I want for all the new Fujifilm camera bodies would be a fully articulating rear screen, in-body stabilization and built in GPS Geo-Tagging without need for a smartphone.

I have had 2 X-T1's I sold the kit one that came with the 18-55mm with very non-responsive four way buttons and bought another X-T1 with the 18-135mm lens. The buttons were a little more clicky and workable. For a Long Trip this is all I would take. If I want a small camera, I also have a X30 which is really remarkable and very familiar to me since it is a Fuji X camera. That's it for traveling. I have a 35mm 1.4, a 10-24mm and a 27mm, but I would leave them home, I only use them rarely and they are not worth the weight. Just add a nice iPad Air 2 and you should be ready for anything out there.

Since my Left eye is dominate, I will wait for a Rangefinder with the EVF only on the right side of the camera. Then my greasy face and nose will stay off the LCD and the viewfinder. I don't know why they can't build cameras with a choice of viewfinder positions. P.S. I want a mid priced Fuji Lens 16-80mm F/4 with a built-in stabilizer. Fuji ruined the new 16-55mm by leaving the stabilizer out of the lens.