Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Does the 56mm 1.2 have a fast enough AF to use for sports?  I shoot high school sports for a local school and the gym lighting is terrible.  I’ve been using the 35mm 2.0 for volleyball but I still have to go to 4000 iso.

 

Back in the days of Canon, I would use the 85mm 1.8 and it was the perfect focal length for volleyball and basketball with a little cropping and relatively low noise.  I know the 56mm focal length will work for the indoor sports just not sure if the AF is fast enough.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't.. It misses focus quite a bit and is painfully slow due to such a large heavy element and not having the linear motors found in most of Fuji's medium to telephoto lenses.

 

At f1.2 the DoF is so thin that I'm still struggling with this lens wide open a year later. It's something of a skill that needs fine refinement. You would need to stop it down somewhat to be able to get use it practically especially for moving subjects.

 

So you could do the 50-140, 100-400, or 55-200 but none of those are brighter than the F2 you're using now. The only other options would be to get the 1.4 version of the lens you have now (which is slower focusing) but you'll still have DoF issues depending on your distance to subject, or do the 90mm F2 which has the LM so it's fast focusing and the extra reach will help you with less cropping in post

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for your responses.  Sounds like the 56mm is not the answer.  I used my 50-140mm, but even wide open, I had to go to 6400 iso to get a fast enough shutter speed.  Needless to say, the gym where I shoot has very poor lighting.  At the last game, I ended up using my 35mm 2.0 at 4000 iso for most of the games.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...