Jump to content

56mm 1.2 for action shots


galestonerimages

Recommended Posts

Does the 56mm 1.2 have a fast enough AF to use for sports?  I shoot high school sports for a local school and the gym lighting is terrible.  I’ve been using the 35mm 2.0 for volleyball but I still have to go to 4000 iso.

 

Back in the days of Canon, I would use the 85mm 1.8 and it was the perfect focal length for volleyball and basketball with a little cropping and relatively low noise.  I know the 56mm focal length will work for the indoor sports just not sure if the AF is fast enough.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't.. It misses focus quite a bit and is painfully slow due to such a large heavy element and not having the linear motors found in most of Fuji's medium to telephoto lenses.

 

At f1.2 the DoF is so thin that I'm still struggling with this lens wide open a year later. It's something of a skill that needs fine refinement. You would need to stop it down somewhat to be able to get use it practically especially for moving subjects.

 

So you could do the 50-140, 100-400, or 55-200 but none of those are brighter than the F2 you're using now. The only other options would be to get the 1.4 version of the lens you have now (which is slower focusing) but you'll still have DoF issues depending on your distance to subject, or do the 90mm F2 which has the LM so it's fast focusing and the extra reach will help you with less cropping in post

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for your responses.  Sounds like the 56mm is not the answer.  I used my 50-140mm, but even wide open, I had to go to 6400 iso to get a fast enough shutter speed.  Needless to say, the gym where I shoot has very poor lighting.  At the last game, I ended up using my 35mm 2.0 at 4000 iso for most of the games.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • FYI Update - I just learned that the Zoom F6 & F3 recorder/mixers also synch to the UltraSynch Blue over bluetooth. I am planning to record 32bit float on the F6 and it will have frame accurate matching time-code with my two-XH2S' and one XH2.
    • Hopefully these will help some. For quite a while now Apple has put stuff into their operating system so that you cannot yourself open the connected camera’s card and see the images, you have to use their or third party software to do that.
    • Thanks for the instructions:  I was doing up to 3 successfully but can't wait to get home and try  4 and 5 and report back. Cheers, John
    • Okay, just for completeness sake: 1.     The camera’s menu connection setting is USB CARD READER. 2.    The computer is turned on, booted and nicely operational. 3..    With the camera turned off, connect the camera to the computer using a known-to-be-good USB C data plus power cable (a data only cable should work as well, a power only cable will not work). 3.   The camera’s charging light may turn on. Turn the camera on. The back screen probably will show the USB symbol as well as the USB letters. 4.    Start up the Image Capture app and see if the camera’s name appears in the devices list. 5.    In the Apple menu, select ‘About This Mac’, click on the ‘More Info…’ button, and on the right hand side of the window that opens, at its bottom is a button called ‘System Report…’, click on it. A new window should open, the left hand side has collapsible dropdown listings, the first is called “Hardware’, within it is the USB listing, select that. The right side pane should give you listings of all the USB devices connected at that moment, one of them should say something like USB PTP Camera. Does either 4. or 5. work?
    • Thanks, Yes I knew about the USB issue in newer Macs and macOS but that is why I tested it with High Sierra as well. Also the fact that every other camera easily connects via USB direct with the camera - definitely points out the fact that it is a FUJI specific problem.  Furthermore - I remember being able to direct connect early last year. I rarely take the Cards OUT of the camera  these days. The weird thing is I can connect my iPhone 15 via USB-C to 100s and pull files directly - puzzling. Problem is FUJI rarely listens to anyone.    
×
×
  • Create New...