Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I traded my 3-year-old X-T1, battery grip and plate towards a new X-T2. Holy smokes. There is a steep learning curve, no doubt. I thought I knew my old camera, but this is a whole new different beast. I am struggling mostly with the video function. I believe the lenses I tried so far are too old, but the AF in video is painfully slow and often non-existent... But then again, I doubt I will do much filming anyway.

 

If you have any suggestions for a new X-T2 owner, please let me know. A new camera is always nice, but there are growing pains for sure until everything is set up just right... 

Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing to mention here and I see it time and time again people complaining about AF in video mode. I get that VLoggers and some types of videography need it, but in my opionion one of the best things you can do to make your video look smooth and as we see on TV is to turn AF off and shoot in manual mode.

 

Unless you are deliberately going for bokeh effect, set you aperture for a deep depth of field, ideally F8 or so, set it so that the DOF scale is infinity and back to say 3ft ( i use the 10-24mm a lot as a wide angle is your friend with video) and keep it manual, your shot will be in focus, will tolerate movement of the subject, and won't have the horrible artifacts introduced by AF hunting, which even the best AF systems cannot totally eliminate.

 

Its is no co-incidence that all the high end Cine lens are manual focus only, even Fuji's new releases, yes you can buy an add on that controls AF, but these often cost the same as the lens again for a reason.

 

Try what I suggest above and you will see that 9 x out of 10 you will get more pleasing results, the other nice thing about this, is it works with vintage lenses and will work on any system you use in the future as it is a general no brand specfic technique.

G

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, turns out I had not updated my lens firmware in a while. After doing that, everything works as it should. :) I will keep the manual focus in mind for filming. I think I just need practice. Just as a side note, if I want f8, I can as well film with my iPhone. The only reason to film with the X-T2 is to get better bokeh. But time will tell how much I will actually film. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The X_T2 will be superior to you iPhone for video for many other reasons than Bokeh, Higher bitrate video files, bigger sensor, so that F8 will give you a much much shallower depth of field relatively than the F8 on the iPhone. I don't think anyone has ever bothered doing equivalence as its so huge a difference. Oh and the sensor is twice the resolution at 24mp although the Iphone 7 at 12Mp probably has greater pixel density. Oh and the colours will probably be better.

 

Bottom line bokeh does not maketh the shot in video apart of in some very specific applications. Its just another tool in the paint box. I used to think the same bokeh bokeh, I remember when I got my first GH1 and a 25mm F1.4 it was all bokeh here we come. The reality is that the lens hunted a lot and it was very distracting. Over time and real world use I have found that F4-F8 is a very good place to be for a lot of shooting situations. 

 

But enjoy experimenting and who knows your bokeh tastic productions may make me eat my words :)

 

Have fun

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • More testing of lenses today.  Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 IF ED VR (same applies to VR II) - dreadful. Heavy vignette at all focal lengths and apertures. Obvioulsy fine in 35mm mode.  Nikon 70-200 f/4 - some vignetting at full frame (similar to 24mm f/1.8 and Sigma 105 f/2.8 so probably correctable or slight crop to 80-90MP). Perfect in 35mm mode.  If weight is an issue for you the kit 35-70 Fuji GFX lens is lightweight and better than you might expect but isn't a fast lens at f/4.5-5.6 
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
×
×
  • Create New...