Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My post is not about Fuji but about photography in general.

 

I was wonderling if someone could explain to me why the guy's face is so grainy:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/streetfusion/28827239815/in/pool-2924826@N25/

 

The picture is shot in broad daylight but at ISO 1250. Even so, there shouldn't be such an excessive amount of grain as far as the guy's face is concerned.

 

Does someone here know for certain what causes this? 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that yes, it is, noise, but , as far as noise goes , in my judgement, it is not excessive under the circumstances.

 

If that bothers you however there are softwares which act as reducing noise, although possibly your settings could be adjusted ( but I am not sure that a much better results would be obtainable) to influence that outcome somewhat.

 

Patrick FR regularly posts on his blog things like these

 

http://www.fujirumors.com/expires-soon-save-72-on-denoise-pro-and-remove-all-forms-of-image-noise/

Link to post
Share on other sites

Micro 4/3 sensor and ISO 1250, I would expect this level of noise. I limit iso to 800 with my Lumix if I want to retain fine detail.

With Fuji perhaps iso 3200 can be ok, unless you have the new medium format Fuji.

With Fuji I can extend the ISO to 6400 and still avoid this kind of noise. The GX80 is a superb camera in terms of specifications, so I was somewhat surprised at the level of 'blotchiness' merely at ISO 1250. There are people who have been telling me that m-4/3 sensors now deliver clean images at ISO 6400.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard the same claims, particularly from Olympus OMD users, but I changed from my Lumix GX to Fuji for the bigger sensor (less noise and better control over DOF).

 

Even just looking at the test shots on Dpreview shows noise issues over ISO 800 with micro 4/3. I'm sure one day micro 4/3 will have good high iso performance, but for now size matters.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard the same claims, particularly from Olympus OMD users, but I changed from my Lumix GX to Fuji for the bigger sensor (less noise and better control over DOF).

 

Even just looking at the test shots on Dpreview shows noise issues over ISO 800 with micro 4/3. I'm sure one day micro 4/3 will have good high iso performance, but for now size matters.

 

I'm relieved I'm not the only one who finds micro 4/3rd noisy past iso800.

 

Do you think the OMD-EM1 mk2 is any better? Loved everything about the mk1 except the noise.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

With Fuji I can extend the ISO to 6400 and still avoid this kind of noise. The GX80 is a superb camera in terms of specifications, so I was somewhat surprised at the level of 'blotchiness' merely at ISO 1250. There are people who have been telling me that m-4/3 sensors now deliver clean images at ISO 6400.

"With Fuji I can extend the ISO to 6400 and still avoid this kind of noise."

Then your Fuji is magic, because I absolutely can't with any of the 4 that I've used (Including the XPro2 and the X-T2)

 

"There are people who have been telling me that m-4/3 sensors now deliver clean images at ISO 6400."

They lied to you. The smaller your sensor and the higher your resolution, the more prevalent your noise will be at lower ISOs. Always. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...