X-Pro 1 Optical Viewfinder Noise
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I hope you are able to get out and see the many wonderful sights!!! Locally, weeellll, mostly we have had this during the days and something similar during the nights. Arrgh!!!😃 For completenesses sake, clouds did clear away in time for the Strawberry Full Moon and the smoke from the wildfires... The clouds are back. -
By caliwinter · Posted
Peak Design slings worked pretty well for me - 6L should be pretty comfortable for body+lens and some accessories, would bring 10L if I wanted an extra lens in there and still have some space available. -
Eight bit or 16 bit? It depends. If your image has tonal changes or gradients. then go with 16 bit. If the image has more solid shapes, eight bit printing may be okay in that the eye may not notice any problems in transition changes. Banding in the images is far more possible using those 8 bit TIFFs than the 14 or 16 bit files. The world has been moving towards the 16 bit world for a while now, albeit in a sort of two steps forward, one step sideways and one step backwards kind of jerky motion by way of color spaces equipment use and support. As generic monitors (screens, tv, cellphones, game consoles, etc.) support more “realism”, demand for better quality based images follows. Which approach is better for you (single shot vs multi-shot) is going to depend on your work flow. What sharpening techniques are you using? Have you tried things like high pass filters, etc. Here is a quick mention of up-scaling: https://affinity.help/photo2ipad/en-US.lproj/contents.xml?page=pages/SizeTransform/imageSize.html&title=Changing image size Lanczos 3 non-separable is supposed to give you the best results. The Lanczos 4 algorithm is better and is out there, but I am not aware of any current commercial photo image processors that offer it — that just means I do not know of any at this moment. p.s. Welcome the forum.
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Hi Everyone, I have a question about processing Fuji Pixelshift multishot, in this case the 16 shot version. I was able to shoot a series of these and combine them in the fuji software successfully (no defect detected). It leaves you with a gigantic shot (1.5-1.6gb), which my client had requested. I also shot regular versions of this with the Fuji 100sii which turns out to be 580+mb's at 16bit and about half that at 8bit (does anyone have any use for 16bit?? do people use these to print ever?). My main question is in processing the multishot. It seems WAY softer and less detailed than the regular shot. It looks a little better with some aggressive sharpening, but the regular shot always looks better. I'm not sure if there is something else I should be doing to process the combined multishot (which is a DNG after combining in Fuji software.) Is it better to just upres the regular shot? Does anyone have any experience with these? I haven't upres'd an image in ages. Do you still do it slowly at 120% with bicubic smoother? I really appreciate any help you all can provide. Thanks! Mac Sequoia 15.5 LR 14.3.1 PS 26.7.0 -
I know this is highly subjective. but -- I have the GFX 50s ii plus the kit lens. This is my start up. Given the larger size relative to the Fuji X line up, I am having a bit of problem figuring out what camera bag to get. I was hoping for something I could carry with me day to day that is not too cumbersome but, can hold the camera with lens attached and some accessories or with an additional lens. I am trying to keep bulk down but wish to avoid overly snug cases. Any help would be appreciated on what to investigate *and* what to avoid. Much thanks in advance.
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