Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I'm happy to hear that you got this in the end.

 

I am personally very happy with it especially for the reason that I can use it both for macro and to adapt lenses without any helicoid.

 

Lately I use it also on an Helios which had lost the last part of the focussing barrel (still has the internal helicoid) and in this way is adapted to Fuji and focusses very easily too.

 

Of course there are disadvantages in using an helicoidal extension macro tube since the light diminishes with the square of the distance you are pretty soon losing light like hell ( at the speed of light!) when you get very close.

 

Did you have to pay any tax?

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Of course there are disadvantages in using an helicoidal extension macro tube since the light diminishes with the square of the distance you are pretty soon losing light like hell ( at the speed of light!) when you get very close.

 

Did you have to pay any tax?

 

True ... but it beats using tubes. I found some beautiful Minolta Achromatic Close-up lenses (not those thin ones you see everywhere) for a few Euro so I'm probably going to alternate between that and the helicoid adapter for the coming time.

 

Nope, no taxes! The price was on the outside of the package. It said "Lens adapter. Value: 3.00". That is such a low value that Belgium customs probably let it slide.  :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, they do that often, of course being a very small item this helps.

 

Interesting the achromatic lenses. I have found one Sigma Achromatic macro lens too but it appears to be just a close up filter like many others there is no indication of its dioptric correction. Maybe I will find something better one day.

 

Macro photography is not something I practice a lot but it is nice to have some extra macro capability.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a list of currently available achromatic close-up lenses.The Minoltas don't really have high diopters but it's more than enough for me. I'm not really into super macro. It's just nice to get closer to a little flower with a Super Takumar 55mm 1.8 lens, for instance. The helicoid adapter is downright perfect for that.

 

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html

Edited by Alex Cremers
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

an enlarging lens would work well for macro ( better so on an helicoid than on a macro bellows which makes the ensemble rather more heavy and difficult to operate) because corrected for short distance, some would work better than others ( like old Leica and Agfa lenses and old Componons) because of their circular, sometimes stopless, aperture. Some lenses are also apochromatic.

 

The drawback is the aperture relatively slow of most enlarging lenses and the size of lenses longer than 150mm, but shorter lenses than that are very small and light.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...