Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So, basically it seems like there are two explanations.

 

1. Fujifilm XT1 and XPro2 cameras are incapable of autofocusing correctly on the targets that you used, and therefore all of the other people getting fine autofocus results are crazy or dense. Or...

 

2. There was something about your test that was unique that you can't understand and that none of us can figure out, given nothing more than your subjective narrative.

 

 

It is very subjective, but still it's peculiar that both x100t and x70 nailed the test in the same environment. Ahh, well, will try again once the x-t2 arrives and I have to decide which of the 35mm's I will purchase with it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With all due respect, I grew up using the metric system also, and I doubt very much that I could ever accurately tell whether a subject was 35cm or 40cm away from the front of my camera.

 

This is almost certainly an innocent user error.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With all due respect, I grew up using the metric system also, and I doubt very much that I could ever accurately tell whether a subject was 35cm or 40cm away from the front of my camera.

 

This is almost certainly an innocent user error.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With all due respect, I grew up using the metric system also, and I doubt very much that I could ever accurately tell whether a subject was 35cm or 40cm away from the front of my camera.

 

This is almost certainly an innocent user error.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With all due respect, I grew up using the metric system also, and I doubt very much that I could ever accurately tell whether a subject was 35cm or 40cm away from the front of my camera.

 

This is almost certainly an innocent user error.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to assume that the viewfinder diopter adjustment was NOT set to your vision and that the images did not appear to be in focus. I have an X-T1 with the XF 35mm f2.0 and the XF 18-55mm f2.8-4.0 and the both lenses focus instantaneously and spot on in that circumstance - even if I step into a darker room. I find it amazing just how sharp the exact point of focus is when I shoot either lens wide open and inspect the images in Lightroom...every time!

 

Just a thought...    :)

Edited by snype719
Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember that you can set the camera up to take a photo even if lens has not achieved focus. I think there is a focus priority setting for taking pics, and an opposite setting (shutter priority of something like that).

 

I have my menu focus setting so that the camera will not take a picture unless the camera has focus lock.  This helps to prevent most (but not all) out of focus pic's (due to my errors).   Maybe the camera was set to allow pic's to be taken when focus had not yet been achieved?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter Gabriel, I use my X-Pro2 all day shooting stills on film sets, and the images from my 35mm f2 are tack sharp wide open, close focus distant focus and everything in between. Maybe trying a camera, with an unknown history of messing with the controls, at a camera store is not the best test.  I shoot 1200 to 1500 images a day on set, and when I chuck out stuff it's because the actors blinked, were doing strange things with their faces or they moved and are blurry; but rarely focus. The quality off the 24 meg chip is vastly superior to my 16meg X100T, which I haven't used at all on set since getting the X-Pro2. Lovely camera but simply not as good. But so darned cute I can't let go!

 

All my other Fuji lenses are equally excellent, especially the 18-55 OIS and the 50-140 OIS, and my 14mm f2. These are workhorses; I use them in stupidly low light conditions (typically ISO 1600  to ISO 3200, 1/60th wide open) and the focus success is far greater than I ever got with my Nikons. I have no hesitation about recommending the system, and look forward to adding the XT-2 when it arrives, which it surely will.

Edited by DeeDee Stills
Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not in most cases. It also depends on which lens you use it with.

 

One thing sorely missed is AF Servo and face tracking. Useful when photographing moving object.

 

So, with Pro1, one has to revert to pre focusing like on a manual lens sometimes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Human error or not, I have experienced that it seems if two object under the focus square is in different distances, the AF will always pick the object that is furthest from the camera, never the nearest one. In the enclosed pic of a rake, the central focus spot was on the rake, but the camera locked on the grass in the background as seen through the sprockets.  

 

 
I have seen this several times, and in such situations it seems like manual focus is the only option. My Canons behaved opposite as they always focused on the nearest object if in doubt, and I would say that Canon's solution is better than Fuji's. The issue is similar with all Fuji's I have owned, X-Pro1, X-T1 and X-Pro2.
 
;-D Hans
 
 
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Human error or not, I have experienced that it seems if two object under the focus square is in different distances, the AF will always pick the object that is furthest from the camera, never the nearest one. In the enclosed pic of a rake, the central focus spot was on the rake, but the camera locked on the grass in the background as seen through the sprockets.  

 

 
 
I have seen this several times, and in such situations it seems like manual focus is the only option. My Canons behaved opposite as they always focused on the nearest object if in doubt, and I would say that Canon's solution is better than Fuji's. The issue is similar with all Fuji's I have owned, X-Pro1, X-T1 and X-Pro2.
 
;-D Hans
 
This happens frequently for me as well. Been taking lots of flowers, and getting the background in focus. My X-E2 never does this. Hopefully a firmware update can fix this. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Human error or not, I have experienced that it seems if two object under the focus square is in different distances, the AF will always pick the object that is furthest from the camera, never the nearest one. In the enclosed pic of a rake, the central focus spot was on the rake, but the camera locked on the grass in the background as seen through the sprockets.

 

 

 

I have seen this several times, and in such situations it seems like manual focus is the only option. My Canons behaved opposite as they always focused on the nearest object if in doubt, and I would say that Canon's solution is better than Fuji's. The issue is similar with all Fuji's I have owned, X-Pro1, X-T1 and X-Pro2.

 

;-D Hans

That is exactly what happens, but not with the x-pro 1, x100t and x70. They all chose the nearest object, my hand. Edited by petergabriel
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Human error or not, I have experienced that it seems if two object under the focus square is in different distances, the AF will always pick the object that is furthest from the camera, never the nearest one. In the enclosed pic of a rake, the central focus spot was on the rake, but the camera locked on the grass in the background as seen through the sprockets.  

 

 
 
I have seen this several times, and in such situations it seems like manual focus is the only option. My Canons behaved opposite as they always focused on the nearest object if in doubt, and I would say that Canon's solution is better than Fuji's. The issue is similar with all Fuji's I have owned, X-Pro1, X-T1 and X-Pro2.
 
;-D Hans

 

 

It would seem so on several occasions. I can say it happens a lot with the xf60 macro! :lol: even though it is for close objects! I notice it happens more if we use a wider focusing square.

 

And I can say for sure it happens to the Nikon D7000.

Link to post
Share on other sites

did you shoot in continuous mode - CH or CL? If yes, here are a 2 suggestions

 

1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).

2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.

 

Hi just wondering what you're source is that says PDAF is of when face detect is on as I can't find anything about this in the online manual. Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...