Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I need a better lens for my surf photography job and Was wondering which of these two lenses is better for that. The goal is to shoot from the beach so I think what’s important is the image quality of higher ranges. Am I right? Considering they’re both 300mm and the same price range, is the Fuji a better choice?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

You are comparing a 4.3x zoom with a 16.5x. The 70-300 is a very sharp lens and considering how difficult it gets to make a zoom lens perform as the zoom ratio increases, I would be very surprised indeed if the Tamron can compete with the Fuji on sharpness 

.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I own a 70-300 Fuji and it has retired all my other lenses!!  I don't know anything about the Tamron, but they do make good lenses - the added range does make it sound like it would be less sharp.  But without a lens to lens comparison it would be hard to say what's best for what you want to do.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just had to make the same choice I went with the Fuji. Based I what I read and also watched on YouTube. The Fuji lens was a bit better and it was only $100 more. I haven’t received it yet supposedly it’s in the  mail but it’s a difficult lens to find in stock right now. I also picked up the 1.4 Fuji teleconverter 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...