Jump to content

Disappointed with the X-T10? Don't worry, Nikon made it even worse :)


Recommended Posts

That is just so ....... there just aren't any words. It's like Nikon looked at the GoPro harnesses and thought "Me too" then realised their batteries wouldn't last long enough.

 

Ah well, it will do wonders for the likes of Hoya. They can just rebadge all their UV filters as "New and Improved Drool Proof Lens Protection"

 

Also did anyone else think the dog in the video was AWFULLY CLEAN. I know enough about border collies to know they NEVER stay that clean for very long. First muddy puddle and that camera is done for.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the people hoping it would be a "cheaper" bargain X-T1, and can tell the difference, were disappointed. It's not. 

 

However, for those people, who don't value all the differences between the X-T1 and X-T10, then they will certainly be happy to have a cheaper option.

 

I'm kind of in the same situation as you. I have both an X-E1 and an X-T1.  I know they are not the same camera and I use them differently.  I got what I paid for in each.  X-T10 certainly makes a great upgrade for the X-E1 for me. Although, I am no rush as I already have an X-T1.

 

I am neither disappointed or surprised about the X-T10. I did not expect a "cheaper" X-T1.   I think people will buy and get exactly what they pay for and value.  If they don't value the differences between X-T1 and X-T10 then the X-T1 certainly looked overpriced and they will be happy with the X-T10 because it looks like a bargin.

 

If they need to ask what's the difference between X-T1 and X-T10, then I just tell people to go for the X-T10 as they likely will not need all the X-T1 offers over the X-10.  Ignorance is bliss, I figure. If I need to explain or point out the difference, they probably wouldn't appreciate it  or utilize the difference enough in the first place.  Know what I mean?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...