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X-T1 LCD Fails when articulated

Amer Kapetanović

By Amer Kapetanović
in Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10

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Amer Kapetanović Rookie

Amer Kapetanović

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Hi folks,

 

after updating X-T1 FW to 4.20 I noticed something odd. LCD is grey (not completely without power) if I turn camera on with LCD articulated. If I just bring the top of LCD to the back of the camera, or I bring entire LCD to the camera back it works again. Very strange thing is that once I see the picture I can again move it in any position and it will work without any issue. 
If the camera is powered on with LCD closed I can see the picture on the screen and again, LCD works in any position. No glitches, works perfectly. If I cycle between EVF and LCD, LCD will work ONLY if its top touching the camera.

There is simply no logic to it. I will try to record a video of it next morning so you can see. I "updated" FW t0 4.21 and same thing happens.

Anyone experienced the same?

The eye proximity sensor works as supposed, no problem there. EVF works as it should, no problem there either. It it was faulty flat cable then it would not work in some position but it does. Only not on power-up or EVF/LCD cycle.
There are some images so you can understand what the heck I just wrote ;)

Thanks!
Amer

 

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JRphoto Enthusiast

JRphoto

Posted
Posted

Hi folks,

 

after updating X-T1 FW to 4.20 I noticed something odd. LCD is grey (not completely without power) if I turn camera on with LCD articulated. If I just bring the top of LCD to the back of the camera, or I bring entire LCD to the camera back it works again. Very strange thing is that once I see the picture I can again move it in any position and it will work without any issue...

 

Hi Amer,

 

That's weird! I just test my machine and it works as it should. It does not show the described behavior. I doubt this has something to do with the firmware version. Despite your considerations, I think a hardware glitch is more probable.

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yukosteel Rising Star

yukosteel

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Very strange bug. I'd recommend to remove eyefinder ring, and wipe the viewfinder sensor.

Just few weeks back I had strange behavior of auto switching from LCD to EVF - when I looked into EVF it was frequently turning ON/OFF.

 

Not sure it will help in your case but worths trying.

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Amer Kapetanović Rookie

Amer Kapetanović

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Hi Amer,

 

That's weird! I just test my machine and it works as it should. It does not show the described behavior. I doubt this has something to do with the firmware version. Despite your considerations, I think a hardware glitch is more probable.

Thanks JRphoto,

 

Yes, I'd attribute this behaviour to hardware but something just makes no sense there. It may seem stupid but I feel like there is some sort of magnet or something on top ob LCD that activates something when close or touching the top LCD slot at the back of the camera. Very very strange.

Thanks for your reply!

Cheers!

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Amer Kapetanović Rookie

Amer Kapetanović

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Very strange bug. I'd recommend to remove eyefinder ring, and wipe the viewfinder sensor.

Just few weeks back I had strange behavior of auto switching from LCD to EVF - when I looked into EVF it was frequently turning ON/OFF.

 

Not sure it will help in your case but worths trying.

Thanks Yukosteel, I did that as well. And speaking of proximity sensor, same thing happens. If screen is articulated and I activate the sensor either by bringing camera to my eye or by passing my finger in front of it it changes to EVF as it is supposed to. When I take the camera away LCD goes gray. Unless it is closed or articulated in a way that top of LCD touches the camera back on top. Go figure ;)

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Amer Kapetanović Rookie

Amer Kapetanović

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I think it's partially related to screen cable. So one of required signal does not pass in that position, but not needed later. The only assumption that comes into mind so far.

Yep, just discovered that it is definitely related to screen cable, at the point where it enters the back of LCD. It will have to be replaced probably ;(

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yukosteel Rising Star

yukosteel

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Sounds like a warranty case.

 

I've quickly checked if that "LCD-to-Camera" cable is available on eBay, but found there only LCD screen part (costs like half price of XF 27mm ! ).

Good thing I see there is that X-T1 LCD part has very short cable, which means it connects inside of screen box to some bridge.

So it seems that the "LCD-to-Camera" ribbon cable is a separate part and should cost relatively low (like for Fujifilm Finepix HS28EXR).

The main cost will probably take the replacement procedure.

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Amer Kapetanović Rookie

Amer Kapetanović

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Sounds like a warranty case.

 

I've quickly checked if that "LCD-to-Camera" cable is available on eBay, but found there only LCD screen part (costs like half price of XF 27mm ! ).

Good thing I see there is that X-T1 LCD part has very short cable, which means it connects inside of screen box to some bridge.

So it seems that the "LCD-to-Camera" ribbon cable is a separate part and should cost relatively low (like for Fujifilm Finepix HS28EXR).

The main cost will probably take the replacement procedure.

Oh, thanks a lot! I've been searching myself but there is no cable-only option. I was inspecting mine - the problem is at the point where it enters the back of LCD. I can see some dirt/dust just there and it is not as sealed ad we might think. It can be moved left and right for good 3-4 millimetres. It may be that connection is dirty because LCD works when I push it gently in for, say, 2mm. I will try and dust it and see if that helps. 

I also discovered that I need #00 JIS type screwdriver to disassemble LCD but it is very hard to find. Phillips #00 type might damage the screws. 

The battle goes on ;) 

Thank you for putting your time in this, I appreciate it!

Cheers!

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yukosteel Rising Star

yukosteel

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Good to hear it works when ribbon cable is shifted. One day similar problem could appear in any X-T1 body including mine, with just extensive use of flipping mechanism.

Yes it worths looking for the proper screwdriver, but I usually just gently use smaller size phillips. I add high torque moment for first 10 dergrees to untighten screw, then rotate it slowly.

You can practice first on the screw inside of SD Card door, just don't unscrew both there.

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