Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

  Im new to the fuji world of cameras and have ordered my first Fuji camera, the X-T3.  In a previous life I was a press photographer and had all the lens that would came with it like the long sport lenes.  I want to hear if anyone has had experience using canon glass on the fuji camera, especially the 300mm f2.8.

 

  Does it work? what is the crop factor and what adaptor to use is the best?

 

Everything else I will use in terms of glass will be fuji glass. just l ike photographing the kids playing sports a few times a year to justify not selling the lens.

 

many thanks

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, it works. There is no change in the crop factor — it is still the.1.5 ratio of full frame to aps-c. That part is tougher to answer, it depends on whether you want to use the lens in fully manual mode, or you want to use things like af, having the lens’ exif data reported in the file, etc. There are are adapters that are essentially manual connectors that do no more than let you connect the lenses to the body with nothing else enabled and there are adapters than give you full electronic control — as long as the lens had it to begin with. There is a company called Fringer that you can look into, there are others you can find by using your favorite search engine to search for Canon ef to Fujifilm fx adapters (or any variations on that). 

Link to post
Share on other sites

No, it is "just as fast". I use a Canon 50mm f1.4 and a Canon mount long lens with an adapter and you would need decent electronic measuring equipment in a lab setting to detect any significant af speed difference between using the lenses on a Canon body instead of a Fujifilm body. If you look on other sites as that have Fujifilm forums, there are shooters that post images of birds in flight, landing and taking-off, dogs in motion, race cars, etc. all down with long lenses through an adapter.

Or, to put it another way, no noticeable delay. That said, it also depends on the body and the lens. Fujifilm's fastest body will not make a slow af lens auto focus any faster.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
18 minutes ago, ScottyfromOz said:

Thanks Jerryy, I have ordered my camera and adaptor and looking forward to trying it out myself

Let us know how you get on - I'm using a Canon 200/f2.8 with a Fringer adapter and it works well although there are times when some sort of image stability would be useful.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi mate,. I have the camera now and using the fringer pro and finding the focusing jumps all over the place.

It doesn't 'lock' on to anything.  When it's sharp it's great but it sounds some time trying to work it out.

 

I'm using the canon 16-35mm f2.8 and the 70-200mm with similar results.

The 300mm lens test was a bust but that was my fault as I was still in single focus mode and not continuous focus mode.  I won't make that mistake again.

 

What setting should I have the camera on?  So far I'm really disappointed with the focus of the camera.  I hope it's user error and a simple fix.

 

Any ideas would be much appreciated

Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the focus bounce around when you are looking through the viewfinder?

If so, it probably means that the menu setting for touchscreen focusing is turned on. Turn it to off in the menu settings and the focus point should only move when you use the joystick to move it around.

Turn that setting to on when you want to use the back lcd screen as the “viewfinder” and then touch the spot you want to use as focus point. This is the cellphone method for focusing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hi. I have a Fuji XT3 and Fringer Pro. I have tried using it with my Canon 300mm. f2.8 IS but the focus hunts all over the place. When it does get it right it is as sharp as I would expect using my Canon 7D II. Most of the long Canon lenses have now been added to the list of lenses having software optimisation. All the Series I and Series II IS models with the exception of the 300mm. F2.8 IS series I. I can't help wondering if they have experienced some problem with matching this lens with the Fringer mount.

It is quite some while since you first raised this question. How have you faired since with finding an answer. I would be very interested to hear of your success or failure to solve this problem as I would love to be able to move away from my Canon 7D II and use the XT3 with this lens.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Since my last post on April 1st I have been in touch with Fringer and explained my problem. I had a somewhat curt reply informing me that if the lens had not been optimised by them in an update, that was all I could expect. The reason they have not produced an optimisation for this model of lens, they tell me , is because they have been unable to find one to test! As this was one of Canons most popular long lenses I am surprised to say the least. They tell me that they may possibly make the optimisation some time in the future.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I was a Canon user for 42 years before I switched to Fujifilm. I have several Canon FD lenses that I use. 50 f1.4, 85 f1.2L, 200 f2.8 IF, 400 f4.5 IF, 500mm f8 mirror. Bought cheap adapters for all and they work swell. I personally have found using them without focusing aids works better for me. The X-Trans focus peaking is just weird. Used the 200 f2.8 last week to shoot through a door into a courtroom and used it today covering budget meetings at the Oklahoma Capitol to get close ups of people in the meetings. Really, really, really would like to get the 500 f4.5L as I had that back in the day and it was awesome glass. But, since Fujifilm is introducing a 150-600 lens May 31, I'll spend my money on that instead.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • The backslashes you are referring are just symbols denoting path.  Once you import into these LUTS into Davinci Resolve those backslashes are removed by default and you only see is the true file name which has no backslashes.  Convince yourself of this by opening the LUT folder from the Davinci Resolve Project Settings.  Do you see any backslashes in those LUT names? Of course not.  The only name you see is the one that has the underscores and the periods. These LUTS work as designed without having to change any path names.  However, they need to be set up properly through CSTs and by what is supported in Davinci Resolve.  Hence, the FLog2C film simulation LUTS cannot be used because Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut color space and the FLog2C gamut. Alternatively, Davinci Resolve does support Flog2 film simulation LUTS because the color space for FLog2 is Rec 2020 and there is an FLog2 gamut. If all you are doing is changing the path names then you are not getting the correct results.
    • I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
×
×
  • Create New...