Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have been wrestling with upgrading from an Xe-1 to the XT3 or Xt 4. Can't figure out which would best meet my needs/wants but this post is more about where you purchase gear.  I have used B&H, adorama for decades.  But in looking at current prices I can save alot of money on an XT 3 body at adorama, and use the extra towards purchasing a lens from Hong kong.  Do folks here feel comfortable buying grey market?  Lenses or bodies?  Both? Neither?  I am curious at peoples' experiences.    Thanks. Norm

Link to post
Share on other sites

I rolled the dice on such a deal about six months ago, and it turned out well in a spectacular way. I'm not sure how it would go in the post-COVID world.

When I buy from the major New York companies, delivery usually takes a week. I bought a certain Fujifilm lens from Kong Kong, and delivery took thirty six hours. The price was thirty six percent of retail in the US. The lens arrived in standard Fujifilm factory packaging, albeit without warranty papers, and it is clearly first quality. It is indeed my favorite lens.

At the price I paid, I would risk this again, but the closer the price gets to US retail, the more I would be inclined to buy in the US for the warranty. Since buying one lens from Hong Kong, I bought three in the US because there was simply no price advantage from overseas. However, if a substantial opportunity ever surfaces again, I would take advantage quickly. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't want to buy grey market lens or body. Because of no VAT included (illegal in my country, France). You can have problem when crossing borders and have to pay the VAT. And I think grey market product will not be repaired by Fujifilm in my country, I have to send it back to "exotic" seller I don't trust in.

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Pierre said:

I don't want to buy grey market lens or body. Because of no VAT included (illegal in my country, France). You can have problem when crossing borders and have to pay the VAT. And I think grey market product will not be repaired by Fujifilm in my country, I have to send it back to "exotic" seller I don't trust in.

For the first one; how are customs going to prove that you didn't pay VAT? Nobody (when I still travelled) ever asked me for an invoice of my camera. And especially when the camera looks used, I think it would be reasonable when you cannot produce a receipt anymore.

The second one; no Fujifilm service from Fuji Europe is more relevant for me. So far, I got good service from Kleve, but I don't think they would want to repair (for free) a camera or lens that is not covered by EU warranty. For out of warranty repairs, they probably don't care.

So it depends on the savings, and how much could go wrong. I bought my XF 27/2.8 as a grey market item, but I would not do that with e.g. a camera body.

Edited by johant
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 6/12/2020 at 11:48 AM, johant said:

For the first one; how are customs going to prove that you didn't pay VAT? Nobody (when I still travelled) ever asked me for an invoice of my camera. And especially when the camera looks used, I think it would be reasonable when you cannot produce a receipt anymore.

The second one; no Fujifilm service from Fuji Europe is more relevant for me. So far, I got good service from Kleve, but I don't think they would want to repair (for free) a camera or lens that is not covered by EU warranty. For out of warranty repairs, they probably don't care.

So it depends on the savings, and how much could go wrong. I bought my XF 27/2.8 as a grey market item, but I would not do that with e.g. a camera body.

To prove, you have to show your invoice. Below two examples, with VAT and without VAT (grey market from SG in this case). I already had to show my camera invoice when travelling.

Fujifilm Europe refuse to repair under warranty body and lenses bought outside Europe.

My choice is to never buy grey market.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello everyone.... newly registered member here.  I'm a very long time member of another (shall remain nameless) forum/site... and I'm a bit disillusioned with it so I'm going to see how things are over here...    🙂

Like a few of the posters above me, I've also ordered from E-Infinity.  I ordered both the 16mm 1.4, and the 56mm 1.2.  Both amazingly arrived in a couple days for me as well, in what seemed normal Fuji packaging.  Quality was perfect, and the price was amazing.  Something of note... E-Infinity, like some other known overseas grey market sellers, sells both on their own website, and on eBay as well.  It seems that they generally charge a slight premium to buy on eBay versus their own site... which likely is to account for the eBay seller fees they incur.  Additionally, you will be charged sales tax on eBay, and not through their site.  I do not say this to encourage tax avoidance... its of note if you happen to live in an area that does not have a sales tax, or if you qualify for tax-exempt purchase and don't want the hassle of submitting documentation to avoid it.  But there are some advantages to using eBay that may justify doing so.  First, eBay acts as the middleman... and if there is a problem that the seller is dragging their feet on addressing, you can seek recourse through eBay.  And it seems they tend to usually favor taking the side of the buyer.  Second, most legitimate sellers are going to care about their feedback rating/reviews.  Bad reviews can cost them sales, and if I'm not mistaken can affect they volume of listings they are allowed to put/sell.  

T.

 

Edited by Gavroche
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • The backslashes you are referring are just symbols denoting path.  Once you import into these LUTS into Davinci Resolve those backslashes are removed by default and you only see is the true file name which has no backslashes.  Convince yourself of this by opening the LUT folder from the Davinci Resolve Project Settings.  Do you see any backslashes in those LUT names? Of course not.  The only name you see is the one that has the underscores and the periods. These LUTS work as designed without having to change any path names.  However, they need to be set up properly through CSTs and by what is supported in Davinci Resolve.  Hence, the FLog2C film simulation LUTS cannot be used because Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut color space and the FLog2C gamut. Alternatively, Davinci Resolve does support Flog2 film simulation LUTS because the color space for FLog2 is Rec 2020 and there is an FLog2 gamut. If all you are doing is changing the path names then you are not getting the correct results.
    • I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
×
×
  • Create New...