Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I bought the pair listed below.

Both are made by Godox but are rebranded house brands from Adorama.

B&H also has Godox rebranded house brands though I don’t know their name for it.

The reason I went with Godox is they are inexpensive and rated very high on multiple websites. 

I first bought the pair as Godox branded but the warranty was a joke. The flash and off camera support both had a card insert explaining the warranty. (Nothing on the Godox box’s or Godox website say anything about a warranty.) The warranty card stipulated that the seller must include signed documentation with the claim and all that is covered is the electrical board, so I returned both.

B&H and Adorama have warranties that stand behind the house brand (Godox) flashes and support with language that is “normal” and both in my experience (and reviews) are honest upstanding sellers.

Got the pair for $124.95 delivered from Adorama and am very happy with them.

The off camera support R2 Pro (XPro-F) was well with the $30 so the flash can be moved away from the lens. 

I prefer using power (AA batteries) over rechargeable that’s easily available/replaceable but to each their own.

happy shooting!

ps. I forgot to say the one downside to Godox is their antiquated firmware update. Their new flashes now support Apples OS (check their website for models) but last I looked all the older flashes can only be firmware updated with a PC and the process is very 1990’s. My flashes came updated from Adorama with the newer firmware so for the moment, it’s not a problem.

Flashpoint Zoom TTL R2 Flash With Integrated R2 Radio Transceiver - Fuji (TT685F)

Flashpoint R2 Pro 2.4GHz Transmitter for Fuji (XPro-F)

Edited by Robr
Add content
Link to post
Share on other sites

The Godox V350F and V860II are versatile on-camera flashes when you need occasionally extra light. For macro I believe Godox has a ring flash too. For more serious work (portrait, events et cetera) the Godox V1 is certainly great. My best experience however is with the Profoto A1X. It's more expensive, but has softer, more even light than the V1 and it doesn't run overheated every now and then. Furthermore the A1 works great in a studio setup with e.g. the small B10 or B10plus.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • All three of my bodies (X-E2, X-T4, GFX100S II) have shoot without lenses enabled and they have all had it set since I bought them.  No harm in it at all. Just remember to set the focal length when you fit a manual lens with no electronics otherwise the IBIS (if you have it) goes nuts. I regularly use vintage film lenses from Minolta, Zeiss, Mamiya, Rollei and others on my X mounts along with more modern manual focus stuff from TTArtisans. I also use Nikon AF-S lenses with a Fringer so the world is your oyster! Vintage lenses can be an absolute bargain too - For example the Zeiss 135 f/35 in M42 is as cheap as chips and very sharp as is the excellent Minolta 35-70 Macro (which is also rebadged Leica). 
    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
×
×
  • Create New...