Jump to content

gordonrussell76

Members
  • Content Count

    226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from ardenw in That 35mm f1.4 magic in other Fujinon lenses?   
    The 35mm F1.4 is the lens is my yardstick, its just magical and on the X-T2 with Acros the love affair has just been getting deeper for me.
     
    In terms of other lens in the system that have a similar rendering, for me the only one that comes close is the 90mm, the 56mm is more in the same camp as the 23mm a bit more clinical, its a lovely lens, but the 90 and 35 are nicer. I have not used the APD, my suspicion is that the APD might get closer to the 35mm magic. 
     
    At the wide end the 18mm is probably the closest match rendering wize, possibly the 16mm as well I have not had hands on experience of that lens.
     
    Fuji seems to have camps of lenses
     
    18/35/90 - Have that look, kind of creamy dreamy but with nice contrast and they do wonderful things with light and fall off, I think of this lot as the vintage crew.
     
    14/23/56 - All very sharp, contrasty, bit more clinical, a more modern look.
     
    10-24/18-55/16/55/55-200/50-140/100-400mm - The Zoom crew, all very similar in rendering, also quite clinical, bokeh can be a bit more harsh, although interestingly the 55-200 at around the 90mm -135mm mark is just delicious bokeh wize, harder to get but when you do nicer and more attractive than the 50-140.
     
    The odds and sods
     
    16mm (sort of between the vintage and modern primes, not enough hands on experience to decide which camp its in.
    60mm this has its very own rendering in my opinion, can be very crunchy contrast wize. Nice lens
    27mm again has its own rendering, probably closer to the 60mm than anythings else.
  2. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from dfaye in Fuji XF 35 1.4 AF speed   
    Old thread I know but something I have found with the 35mm F1.4 is more than any other Fuji lens it really rewards the mash the shutter button technique, (remember to set to focus priority in sub menu), if you half press it hunts and then by the time you have hit the shutter things have moved, If you just mash shutter in S_AF soon as it acquires focus it fires and I have found accuracy is actually better with this method. Interestingly as well on the X-H1 you get even more keepers with this method as the feather shutter introduces less of the jaring inherent in this technique and also has IBIS to further steady the ship. Oh and the 35mm is faster on the X-h1 anyway thanks to new AF algo's (coming to all the 3rd gen bodies in May.
     
    Its good times to be a Fuji user, especially when my first ever lens I bought in the system after the kit (5 Years ago), is still getting better thanks to firmware updates in the bodies.
  3. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from Mike G in Fuji XF 35 1.4 AF speed   
    Old thread I know but something I have found with the 35mm F1.4 is more than any other Fuji lens it really rewards the mash the shutter button technique, (remember to set to focus priority in sub menu), if you half press it hunts and then by the time you have hit the shutter things have moved, If you just mash shutter in S_AF soon as it acquires focus it fires and I have found accuracy is actually better with this method. Interestingly as well on the X-H1 you get even more keepers with this method as the feather shutter introduces less of the jaring inherent in this technique and also has IBIS to further steady the ship. Oh and the 35mm is faster on the X-h1 anyway thanks to new AF algo's (coming to all the 3rd gen bodies in May.
     
    Its good times to be a Fuji user, especially when my first ever lens I bought in the system after the kit (5 Years ago), is still getting better thanks to firmware updates in the bodies.
  4. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from HeyAndy in X-T2 Picture Review won't go away   
    Its an additional EVF/LCD mode, you can change back to the way you are used to.
     
    Interestingly as you get to know this new mode its actually quite cool.
     
    Basically teh way it works is turn camera on, LCD will be on and show you the live view. Bring camera to eye, remove camera from eye LCD still in live-view. All is good and as before. 
     
    Put camera back to eye EVF switches on, take a shot, remove from eye, low and behold automatic picture review with option to click OK. However and this is where it get interesting, put camera back to ey and EVF turn on automatically and you can carry on taking pictures until you again remove the camera from you eye and it will automatically show you the last picture on the LCD again in preview mode. Its basically an auto-chimping mode. Basically with this mode you shoot with EVF until you think you have a keeper and when you remove camera from your eye it automatically presses the play button for you, if your keeper turns out not to be sharp, put camera back to eye and carry on shooting, rinse repeat. I like using this mode with preview turned off (0 Secs) as then I get uninterrupted shooting through EVF, but if I want to check I just pull camera away from my face.
     
    Its great though because the whole time the camera is at your eye you can shoot seamlessly it will not stop you taking a shot, which is what annoyed me at first because I kept hitting okay before putting it back to my eye because that is what the screen told me to do, but its unnecessary, you only need to hit okay if you want to go back to live view on the LCD.
  5. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from RickUrb in Lightroom for x-trans... seriously?   
    This old chesnut AGAIN.
     
    Just get Capture one and be done with it
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png"> Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1  
    1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot.
     
    2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful.
     
    3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow.
     
    4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days.
     
    G
  6. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from mqaa in Lightroom for x-trans... seriously?   
    This old chesnut AGAIN.
     
    Just get Capture one and be done with it
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png"> Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1  
    1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot.
     
    2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful.
     
    3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow.
     
    4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days.
     
    G
  7. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from wojconner in Lightroom for x-trans... seriously?   
    This old chesnut AGAIN.
     
    Just get Capture one and be done with it
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png"> Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1  
    1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot.
     
    2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful.
     
    3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow.
     
    4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days.
     
    G
  8. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from DennisXT2 in X-T2 Picture Review won't go away   
    Its an additional EVF/LCD mode, you can change back to the way you are used to.
     
    Interestingly as you get to know this new mode its actually quite cool.
     
    Basically teh way it works is turn camera on, LCD will be on and show you the live view. Bring camera to eye, remove camera from eye LCD still in live-view. All is good and as before. 
     
    Put camera back to eye EVF switches on, take a shot, remove from eye, low and behold automatic picture review with option to click OK. However and this is where it get interesting, put camera back to ey and EVF turn on automatically and you can carry on taking pictures until you again remove the camera from you eye and it will automatically show you the last picture on the LCD again in preview mode. Its basically an auto-chimping mode. Basically with this mode you shoot with EVF until you think you have a keeper and when you remove camera from your eye it automatically presses the play button for you, if your keeper turns out not to be sharp, put camera back to eye and carry on shooting, rinse repeat. I like using this mode with preview turned off (0 Secs) as then I get uninterrupted shooting through EVF, but if I want to check I just pull camera away from my face.
     
    Its great though because the whole time the camera is at your eye you can shoot seamlessly it will not stop you taking a shot, which is what annoyed me at first because I kept hitting okay before putting it back to my eye because that is what the screen told me to do, but its unnecessary, you only need to hit okay if you want to go back to live view on the LCD.
  9. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from dfaye in X-T2 Picture Review won't go away   
    Its an additional EVF/LCD mode, you can change back to the way you are used to.
     
    Interestingly as you get to know this new mode its actually quite cool.
     
    Basically teh way it works is turn camera on, LCD will be on and show you the live view. Bring camera to eye, remove camera from eye LCD still in live-view. All is good and as before. 
     
    Put camera back to eye EVF switches on, take a shot, remove from eye, low and behold automatic picture review with option to click OK. However and this is where it get interesting, put camera back to ey and EVF turn on automatically and you can carry on taking pictures until you again remove the camera from you eye and it will automatically show you the last picture on the LCD again in preview mode. Its basically an auto-chimping mode. Basically with this mode you shoot with EVF until you think you have a keeper and when you remove camera from your eye it automatically presses the play button for you, if your keeper turns out not to be sharp, put camera back to eye and carry on shooting, rinse repeat. I like using this mode with preview turned off (0 Secs) as then I get uninterrupted shooting through EVF, but if I want to check I just pull camera away from my face.
     
    Its great though because the whole time the camera is at your eye you can shoot seamlessly it will not stop you taking a shot, which is what annoyed me at first because I kept hitting okay before putting it back to my eye because that is what the screen told me to do, but its unnecessary, you only need to hit okay if you want to go back to live view on the LCD.
  10. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from pete1959 in X-T2 Picture Review won't go away   
    Its an additional EVF/LCD mode, you can change back to the way you are used to.
     
    Interestingly as you get to know this new mode its actually quite cool.
     
    Basically teh way it works is turn camera on, LCD will be on and show you the live view. Bring camera to eye, remove camera from eye LCD still in live-view. All is good and as before. 
     
    Put camera back to eye EVF switches on, take a shot, remove from eye, low and behold automatic picture review with option to click OK. However and this is where it get interesting, put camera back to ey and EVF turn on automatically and you can carry on taking pictures until you again remove the camera from you eye and it will automatically show you the last picture on the LCD again in preview mode. Its basically an auto-chimping mode. Basically with this mode you shoot with EVF until you think you have a keeper and when you remove camera from your eye it automatically presses the play button for you, if your keeper turns out not to be sharp, put camera back to eye and carry on shooting, rinse repeat. I like using this mode with preview turned off (0 Secs) as then I get uninterrupted shooting through EVF, but if I want to check I just pull camera away from my face.
     
    Its great though because the whole time the camera is at your eye you can shoot seamlessly it will not stop you taking a shot, which is what annoyed me at first because I kept hitting okay before putting it back to my eye because that is what the screen told me to do, but its unnecessary, you only need to hit okay if you want to go back to live view on the LCD.
  11. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from jlmphotos in Battery saving tips.   
    Yup shooting less is good. I came back from a 3 week trip in Canada 8 months ago with 10000 images and I am still whittling it down to a usable 200. The irony is that hte shots I really thought about were all keepers and I knew they were at the time. I could have probably written a list of 30 shots on paper and then just gone and looked for those.
     
    However their is an argument that those 30 are so good because I sure put in a lot of practice with the other 9970 shots
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">  
    G
  12. Like
    gordonrussell76 reacted to jlmphotos in Dear Fujifilm...   
    You sir, are a complete tool.   Not worth the seconds of my precious life.  
  13. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from TheWorldCan'tWait in I caved...   
    One thing to mention here and I see it time and time again people complaining about AF in video mode. I get that VLoggers and some types of videography need it, but in my opionion one of the best things you can do to make your video look smooth and as we see on TV is to turn AF off and shoot in manual mode.
     
    Unless you are deliberately going for bokeh effect, set you aperture for a deep depth of field, ideally F8 or so, set it so that the DOF scale is infinity and back to say 3ft ( i use the 10-24mm a lot as a wide angle is your friend with video) and keep it manual, your shot will be in focus, will tolerate movement of the subject, and won't have the horrible artifacts introduced by AF hunting, which even the best AF systems cannot totally eliminate.
     
    Its is no co-incidence that all the high end Cine lens are manual focus only, even Fuji's new releases, yes you can buy an add on that controls AF, but these often cost the same as the lens again for a reason.
     
    Try what I suggest above and you will see that 9 x out of 10 you will get more pleasing results, the other nice thing about this, is it works with vintage lenses and will work on any system you use in the future as it is a general no brand specfic technique.
    G
  14. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from ViewMode in Dear Fujifilm...   
    Hey Epscott just a few thoughts on your original post.
     
    1) I think Fuji are aware of the dangers of becoming a Kodak given that usually Fuji are held up as the comparison of success vs failure in most case studies around Kodak, they diversified and saw the future earlier than Kodak and survived, not relevant to this discussion but interesting none the less
    2) I don't want Fuji or anyone to win. I want a healthy selections of camera manufacturers all pushing each other to innovate and give us the customer more and cheaper options. If Fuji win everyone, including Fuji users suffer.
    3) Re IBIS, I genuinely am happier without it. I personally believe that lens OIS is better for most applications apart from video. For video I think you are better off with external stabilization, tripod, booms, steadicams will all give better results than even the best IBIS. Not saying you can't ask for it, but if it added 300 dollars to the cost of hte camera, I would rather spend that money on my external stabilization of choice.
    4) Touchscreen for focus pulling, again a dedicated manual lens with a focus pull will get you better results, but if you really need this functionality you already have it via the remote app. You can use the touchscreen on your smart device to change focus point during video and it will pull focus. I know I know everyone says the app connection is flaky. I have no issue, I just turn off my home wifi when I am shooting at home as that is what causes 99% of problems as its interference, this is not a problem out and about.
    5) Voice controls, what a great idea, not just for those who have accessability needs, it would be great when shooting pictures with the photographer in them. I often get asked to do pics of my band, whcih invaraibaly have me in them holding my phone using the remote app to trigger the camera, voice activation would remove this. There would need to be an option to disable the delete image voice command for street photographers though as it would be no fun if people could just shout that at you and delete all your images
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">
  15. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from cswright81 in Dear Fujifilm...   
    Hey Epscott just a few thoughts on your original post.
     
    1) I think Fuji are aware of the dangers of becoming a Kodak given that usually Fuji are held up as the comparison of success vs failure in most case studies around Kodak, they diversified and saw the future earlier than Kodak and survived, not relevant to this discussion but interesting none the less
    2) I don't want Fuji or anyone to win. I want a healthy selections of camera manufacturers all pushing each other to innovate and give us the customer more and cheaper options. If Fuji win everyone, including Fuji users suffer.
    3) Re IBIS, I genuinely am happier without it. I personally believe that lens OIS is better for most applications apart from video. For video I think you are better off with external stabilization, tripod, booms, steadicams will all give better results than even the best IBIS. Not saying you can't ask for it, but if it added 300 dollars to the cost of hte camera, I would rather spend that money on my external stabilization of choice.
    4) Touchscreen for focus pulling, again a dedicated manual lens with a focus pull will get you better results, but if you really need this functionality you already have it via the remote app. You can use the touchscreen on your smart device to change focus point during video and it will pull focus. I know I know everyone says the app connection is flaky. I have no issue, I just turn off my home wifi when I am shooting at home as that is what causes 99% of problems as its interference, this is not a problem out and about.
    5) Voice controls, what a great idea, not just for those who have accessability needs, it would be great when shooting pictures with the photographer in them. I often get asked to do pics of my band, whcih invaraibaly have me in them holding my phone using the remote app to trigger the camera, voice activation would remove this. There would need to be an option to disable the delete image voice command for street photographers though as it would be no fun if people could just shout that at you and delete all your images
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">
  16. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from RM_Photog in Fujifilm Releases New Firmware for Fujifilm X-T2 DOWNLOAD NOW!   
    I think you can have the focus point stay the same size, under the same menu option that turns on AF point moves with orientation there are two options one is AF point only, the other is ALL AF setting, if you choose all AF settings then it remembers the last AF size you used in that orientation. For example if you were in landscape in Single Point AF with a very small Focus area and then moved to Portrait switched to Zone focus 5x5, when you went back to landscape it woudl switch back to Single point small, and then when you went back to portrait it would be back in zone.
     
    I think if you switch to AF point only or whatever the setting is called that is not ALL, then your point will move, but it won't reflect any size or type changes you have made. Hope that helps/works for you. I am still learning the new features myself.
  17. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from frankinfuji in Fujifilm Releases New Firmware for Fujifilm X-T2 DOWNLOAD NOW!   
    Installed.
     
    First impressions
     
    1. AF point moving when you switch between portrait and landscape in both EVF and LCD is worth the price of admission alone, well I say price of admission, the firmware was free.
     
    2. SS Auto, very useful feature and quite interesting to see what Fuji considers as SS for each lens. They go by the FF equivalence as far as I can tell from my limited experimentation. IE the 56mm it picks 1/85 rather than 1/56, which is what I had been doing when manually choosing a SS. I think it would be nice if you could (for primes) at least set your prefered SS for each lens in the auto mode. As I often would set it higher than 1/85 to be sure. I suppose though that is what full manual mode is for
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">  
    3) The AUTO ISO COmmand function is great, not only can you scroll continuously through all ISO values, when you get to the end of the scroll and are at the highest ISO value you then go into Auto 1, 2 and 3 of your iso menus, so it can still work as the old auto ISO function, but is even easier as you can now switch between your pre-programmed Auto Iso presets with the front wheel (you have to press it first) which is very useful and has just free'd up a custom button I had programmed to that function for something else now
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">  
    These 3 are the most obvious from the first 10 minutes of having a play. I have yet to test Face and Eye detect as I am home alone
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png"> WIll update if I have time later.  
    G
  18. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from dyrmaker83 in That 35mm f1.4 magic in other Fujinon lenses?   
    The 35mm F1.4 is the lens is my yardstick, its just magical and on the X-T2 with Acros the love affair has just been getting deeper for me.
     
    In terms of other lens in the system that have a similar rendering, for me the only one that comes close is the 90mm, the 56mm is more in the same camp as the 23mm a bit more clinical, its a lovely lens, but the 90 and 35 are nicer. I have not used the APD, my suspicion is that the APD might get closer to the 35mm magic. 
     
    At the wide end the 18mm is probably the closest match rendering wize, possibly the 16mm as well I have not had hands on experience of that lens.
     
    Fuji seems to have camps of lenses
     
    18/35/90 - Have that look, kind of creamy dreamy but with nice contrast and they do wonderful things with light and fall off, I think of this lot as the vintage crew.
     
    14/23/56 - All very sharp, contrasty, bit more clinical, a more modern look.
     
    10-24/18-55/16/55/55-200/50-140/100-400mm - The Zoom crew, all very similar in rendering, also quite clinical, bokeh can be a bit more harsh, although interestingly the 55-200 at around the 90mm -135mm mark is just delicious bokeh wize, harder to get but when you do nicer and more attractive than the 50-140.
     
    The odds and sods
     
    16mm (sort of between the vintage and modern primes, not enough hands on experience to decide which camp its in.
    60mm this has its very own rendering in my opinion, can be very crunchy contrast wize. Nice lens
    27mm again has its own rendering, probably closer to the 60mm than anythings else.
  19. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from frod in That 35mm f1.4 magic in other Fujinon lenses?   
    The 35mm F1.4 is the lens is my yardstick, its just magical and on the X-T2 with Acros the love affair has just been getting deeper for me.
     
    In terms of other lens in the system that have a similar rendering, for me the only one that comes close is the 90mm, the 56mm is more in the same camp as the 23mm a bit more clinical, its a lovely lens, but the 90 and 35 are nicer. I have not used the APD, my suspicion is that the APD might get closer to the 35mm magic. 
     
    At the wide end the 18mm is probably the closest match rendering wize, possibly the 16mm as well I have not had hands on experience of that lens.
     
    Fuji seems to have camps of lenses
     
    18/35/90 - Have that look, kind of creamy dreamy but with nice contrast and they do wonderful things with light and fall off, I think of this lot as the vintage crew.
     
    14/23/56 - All very sharp, contrasty, bit more clinical, a more modern look.
     
    10-24/18-55/16/55/55-200/50-140/100-400mm - The Zoom crew, all very similar in rendering, also quite clinical, bokeh can be a bit more harsh, although interestingly the 55-200 at around the 90mm -135mm mark is just delicious bokeh wize, harder to get but when you do nicer and more attractive than the 50-140.
     
    The odds and sods
     
    16mm (sort of between the vintage and modern primes, not enough hands on experience to decide which camp its in.
    60mm this has its very own rendering in my opinion, can be very crunchy contrast wize. Nice lens
    27mm again has its own rendering, probably closer to the 60mm than anythings else.
  20. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from Ms_Tex in UK Newbie, with questions re Downloading images & RAW processing   
    You don't need software to download the images, you can just put the SD card in a USB SD card reader and transfer them to your computer.
     
    In terms of processing the Fuji provided software (in the box with the camera or download from there website) is Sikypix I have never used it and the general consensus is that the image quality and colour profiles/film simulations are well done but that the software is clunky and the UI is terrible. Still its free so probably a good place to start.
     
    The alternatives are
     
    Lightroom - Built in film simulations and lens correction, some issues with sharpening, a lot better with the latest generation sensor. I am still not convinced, but I need to work more on the input settings
    Capture One - Great software, no lens corrections although on most Fuji lenses they are not neccessary as they are optically corrected. Very good home brewed film simulations availalble in a thread in this very forum. Sharpening is great.
    Iridient - Supposedly the best of the bunch for sharpening, but no cateloguing features.
     
    There are others such as photo ninja, but the above are the main 3 really. Iridient is MAC only the others are system agnostic.
     
    I use Capture One by preference, although right now for X-T2 I am experimenting with LR again as Capture one doesnot recognize X-T2 yet.
     
    G
  21. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from frankinfuji in 35mm f2 vs. 35mm f1.4 after firmware   
    Its all subjective.
     
    I love the rendering of the 35 F1.4, its my favourite lens in the system, its on my camera about 90% of the time. The AF improved massively on X-E2/X-T1 after Firmware 4 and it improved again with X-T2. Basically you will have to pry that lens from my cold dead hands unless they release a Mkii that is WR, and slightly better build quality int eh saeme vein as the 90mm.
     
    It just does nice stuff I think it renders and has bokeh on a par with the 90mm, only its more practical as you can use it in a wider range of scenarios.
     
     
     
     
    G
  22. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from frankinfuji in Autofocus with 35mm f/1.4   
    Sorry don't believe the hype, the 35mm F2 is not as well optically corrected as the F1.4 and relies on more in camera or in processor correction which means Jpegs workflow is great, RAW is down to your converter. Good luck with capture one. 
     
    F1.4 renders better in my opinion
     
    F1.4 now focus's very fast on X-T2, is it as fast as the F2 no, but its fast enough that the difference no longer matters ie you won't be missing any shots.
     
    Its not that noisy apart from when you turn it on and the lens racks out to its starting position.
     
    Give it a couple of years and the newness has worn off on the F2 and people will be coming back to the F1.4. Still my favourite lens in the line up, and has produced most of my favorite shots in the system. Now I grant you I love that focal length but still in terms of IQ the only other lens that has the same vibe is the 90mm, Those two lens are just stellar and while the 56mm is a great lens and useful focal length every time I shoot I am always thinking why can't you be more like the 35 and the 90
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /emoticons/default_smile.png"> Its going to need councilling soon
  23. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from synthesaur in Autofocus with 35mm f/1.4   
    Sorry don't believe the hype, the 35mm F2 is not as well optically corrected as the F1.4 and relies on more in camera or in processor correction which means Jpegs workflow is great, RAW is down to your converter. Good luck with capture one. 
     
    F1.4 renders better in my opinion
     
    F1.4 now focus's very fast on X-T2, is it as fast as the F2 no, but its fast enough that the difference no longer matters ie you won't be missing any shots.
     
    Its not that noisy apart from when you turn it on and the lens racks out to its starting position.
     
    Give it a couple of years and the newness has worn off on the F2 and people will be coming back to the F1.4. Still my favourite lens in the line up, and has produced most of my favorite shots in the system. Now I grant you I love that focal length but still in terms of IQ the only other lens that has the same vibe is the 90mm, Those two lens are just stellar and while the 56mm is a great lens and useful focal length every time I shoot I am always thinking why can't you be more like the 35 and the 90
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /emoticons/default_smile.png"> Its going to need councilling soon
  24. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from Ms_Tex in XF23mm vs XF27mm for Street Photography   
    Quick update to this thread, I was going to edit my original post, but decided it was best left this way to show the progression for me.
     
    So firstly I have swapped out my X-E2 for an X-T1, I miss the X-E2, I still stand by the fact that I prefer it as a camera to the X-T1, interesting note as well I honestly believe that it will last longer than X-T1 as well, its a good build and there are less knobs and doors to break off go wrong. Its a little tank.,
     
    However it was a simple situtaion I wanted the 18-135mm and I got a phenominal deal on the X-T1 kit, so good that basically for the 2nd hand price of the 18-135mm (£400 based on my estimation and study of Ebay auctions) I was able to get the  X-T1 as a freebie. The upgrade to the X-T1 after I sold the X-E2 was cost neutral compared to me keeping it and buying a 18-135mm seperately. I could not ignore that deal.
     
    So I have been using X-t1 for street, observations so far.
     
    1) I use it exactly the same way as I used X-E2, the zone focus is occasionally nice, but general Single Point AF or manual zone pre-focus is still the best method. So no advantage here over X-E2
    2) Its not that noticable with 35mm and 27mm its fine, and its actually less wide than X-E2 so although my right eye is now in the middle of the camera, I can still see past the edge of the camera and see overal scene and make eye contact with people, so actually here X-T1 is totally fine. I also find I aquire target more quicly as the lens is below the EVF so when I bring camera to eye I see what I am pointing at without having to make minor correction (in all fairness, this correction became second nature with X-E2 so i am mentioning this mainly out of completeness).
    3) EVF - okay before I owned an X-T1 I thought this was the only thing that it really had over the X-E2, and I was right, what I was not prepared for was how right I was going to be. The EVF on this thing is just extrordinary and has ruined me for anything else unless its better
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. 4) I HATE the doors on the X-T1, they are awful and Fuji could really do with sorting them out for the X-T2.
     
    In terms of 27mm I am still loving that lens.
     
    Now for a curve ball. I also recently bought the 10-24mm for my wide angle needs, it was a toss up between that and th 14mm and I bought the 10-24mm as I got a steal on ebay, and my logic is might as well try this first as I can sell for a profit and easily fund the cheaper 14mm down the line if it does not work out. As it is, this is my new favourite lens for street.
     
    My street kit is now
     
    10-24mm
    27mm
    35mm
     
    I am loving the 10-24mm when I first got it I was not that impressed with it at 24mm like a lot of reviewers I felt that the sharpness had something to be desired.
     
    However I recently realized that the original owner had not updated it to the latest firmware. i took some before and after shots with it at 24mm and the difference in sharpness is night and day with stabilization on.
    This means it ends up overall sharper as I can often use it at a lower SS and therefore lower ISO which is sharper as well. I have just added my flickr feed to my signature, look at the picture entitled 'Tribute to Kai' to see my favourite street shot with the 10-24mm. I need to process more, but thats the first one thats made it to my flickr
     
    The lovely thing about this lens is I can walk around with it in 24mm shooting street shots very happily, and then if I see somethign I need a wider angle for, its there under my fingers. Will it replace my 27mm, NO, but it a lovely additional colour on my palette and I have to say I honestly love this lens at 24mm (well actually 22.9, I set marker to line up with the 4 of 24 and this gives 22.9 which is closer to true 35mm)
     
    So I guess the moral is that I have found that an X-T1 with a 10-24mm zoom works quite well for street, so maybe size of camera and lens is not that important.
  25. Like
    gordonrussell76 got a reaction from George_P in Owning both 18-55 and 35 f/2   
    George P
    You got there first no questions. Length is no substitute for brevity, sadly a lesson I never seem to learn
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. /uploads/emoticons/default_smile.png">
×
×
  • Create New...