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cug

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Everything posted by cug

  1. Inside will be a little bit of a problem. I really like the ThinkTank Perception Pro backpack, I haven't bought yet one though, only looked at them in the store as I mostly run around with my The North Face daypack with camera gear in separate pouches inside and my Gitzo tripod strapped to the outside. Here's a link to the ThinkTank: https://www.thinktankphoto.com/collections/perception-series-backpacks/products/perception-pro-backpack?variant=1235272703 They do have a cool system for carrying tripods on the outside. Carrying a larger tripod inside a bag will be a problem. You'd likely need a very compact travel tripod and a rather large backpack to carry camera gear AND tripod inside. There are quite some combinations that will fit, but I can only recommend going to a camera store and trying it out. The store here in the area has no problem with me trying out bags and seeing what fits as I sometimes buy gear from them. I buy about 30% of my photo gear locally, therefore I'm a known customer in that store. For me personally tripods are a logistics challenge as I want all my gear to be small and to fit in a small bag - doesn't work with a largish tripod, therefore my solution above.
  2. I don't disagree with you that every single lens (or at least, most of them) has its place. I disagree with the suggestion that a single focal length, whatever focal length that might be, is limiting. It might limit a specific person, while another person will feel liberated and creatively inspired by the "limitations". What I see in forums is often the "you will be limited" approach, instead of looking at it more openly. Not everybody's goal is to capture every single photo possible at a certain location. I've had fun with just the XF14 in Chicago although I have to admit, the first two hours were frustrating. But then I really got into it and I love some of the results. If I had another lens with me, I would not have "unlocked" this creativity, I would have switched lenses or zoomed far too often. My personal opinion: The only thing limited is the imagination when people say a single lens is limiting.
  3. If you feel limited by that, you are correct. I just plain don't feel limited by this. I'll take a different approach to photos. XF35 on X-T1: The Shard by Guido Neitzer, on Flickr
  4. They have different sharpness behavior, that's for certain. On the two I have here, the XF35/2 is sharper up to f/2.8, at f/4 they are roughly equal, from f/5.6 on the older f/1.4 lens is better across most of the frame up to f/11 (I don't go higher, so I didn't check). I have seen tests swaying both ways, but what I've seen in example photos from real people goes along with my own observations. I don't really prefer one over the other for optical reasons (except when I really want f/1.4), but more for the mechanical differences. I just like the quieter AF, more solid feeling, of the newer lens slightly better while still thinking that the old one is just ever so slightly better optically. But the differences in real life are small and don't matter much, therefore I mostly use the new one on the X-T1 for the WR qualities to not suck dust onto my sensor. There are crazy rumors that Fuji might, one day, maybe in 2017 build a super high end f/1.0 33 or 35mm lens – if it ever comes out, that'll be MY LENS. Until then I use whatever 35 is on the camera at that point in time without giving too much thought about the differences. That should tell you enough.
  5. Hard to say. I've done what you've mentioned with each of these lenses alone (no other lenses with me): 14, 23, 35, 50 (manual Rokkor-X lens on adapter). Most versatile single lens would be the 23 although I find that one to be a bit on the large side. If size is something that might be important for you, compare the lenses: http://camerasize.com/compact/#520.498,520.408,520.422,ha,t They don't have the 18 to attach, try the 27 and just think about it having an additional aperture ring. Remember that the pictures are without lens hood. 35 f/2 has the smallest lens hood, the 35 1.4 the crushed coke can hood and the XF23 a huge petal shaped hood. I use the XF23 with a vented aftermarket hood. Again, it's really up to you. Dark can mean that even one stop faster can make a difference for you. None of the lenses will be perfect, all of them will get the job done as soon as you adapt to the focal length. That's why I suggest getting a single one: get used to a focal length, get really comfortable with it. Then add another when you KNOW what you miss. That means you don't have to rely on people guessing here.
  6. Yeah, the 18 sounds okay if you like that focal length. It's one of the more "under-rated" lenses in the Fuji line up, meaning it is "only very good", not excellent or outstanding like some of the others. I like the combination of 18 + 35 as a pairing of compact primes, although I actually prefer 14 + 35. Never really liked the 23 view all too much, I think it's a "jack of all trades, master of none" with less mastery in anything for me than the 35. But that's just me. In general regarding focal length recommendation: this is even more personal than cameras. I'd say start with one lens for a while. Be that 23 (excellent optics) or any of the 35s and add where you think it makes most sense. I went for a wide spread with my first three lenses (14 + 35 + a manual 90mm Leica mount lens). That was a great combination and I filled gaps a year later, but 14 + 35 is still one of my mostly used carry kits, simply because it's versatile up to environmental portrait (35) and wide fun (14). Buying two lenses right away might get you more choice in the beginning, but if you are still figuring out what you really like, I'd just get one and see whether you are missing a lens wider or one longer than the one you own. Just more money efficient that way.
  7. Both are very good lenses. Look at the physical (optical specs) and mechanical differences outlined in various reviews, don't get too hung up on sharpness comparisons, some of this is due to differences in individual lenses, others is due to testers having a different understanding of what "center", "edge/border" and "corner" actually means. I own both and have been happy with the 1.4 for two years and only added the 2.0 for WR and quieter AF and because I needed a second 35mm lens as my wife likes that focal length as well.
  8. Why do people always think that WR is about rain? I couldn't care less about rain. I care about dust. It's not that much of a problem with the 23 due to internal focusing, but for example the 18-55 sucks in more dust than a vacuum cleaner. This lens is on my X-E2 and my wife uses it a lot and I can't even count how often I had to clean out the camera and sensor from dust specs. Never ever had so much problems with it.
  9. Yeah, low NR, although I do use Long Exposure NR (black frame NR). Definitely go with raw+Fine. Fine so that you can gauge your shots in camera and raw to have all the latitude the raw file allows for later. Use low ISO (200) and small aperture (I prefer 11 +/1 one stop). Get a good tripod. Get a cheap cable remote release, you can't go beyond 30 seconds without one. Rest of the settings don't matter too much. Learn how to operate full manual to get the most out of it. It's really not hard, go out and shoot some, take a look at the results, go out again and repeat with the experience from last time. It takes a few times to get some nice shots, but it's a lot of fun.
  10. WTF do you want FF for? For street or for birding? For both, crop sensors are actually often better ... I'm sorry, but I still find you sound like a kid in a toy store, wanting everything he sees and if it can be only one it has to be the biggest baddest thing the other cool kids have as well. Why don't you REALLY think about what you want to shoot and you'll get a useful recommendation. If that recommendation is a Sony - sure, why not. If it's just for the sake of buying something to be able to say you have bought something, man up and buy a Leica and be done with the kids stuff from Fuji, Sony, Canon and Nikon.
  11. Before I'd try another raw converter, I'd first of all update the raw converter I already use to the current version and second use it with working values. Gets much more mileage out of the tools than blindly using the default conversions of other converters.
  12. I think it's actually very easy given that you have stated this: So, get the X100T for Street Photography, the X-T1 for nature with long lenses and the X-Pro2 for model photography. Okay, that aside, does it really matter? The cameras have massive differences between them and you should decide based on these differences, not based on what's new or not new. If you want to be flexible down the road, you invest in one or two lenses and any Fuji body that is still within your budget. Most of the "natural combinations" of lenses are already hitting your budget pretty hard or are well beyond it. Think 23 + 56 for serious quality shooting, or 35 + 90 if you like it a little longer. Or 16-55 + 50-140 f/2.8 zooms. Overall, I think you are all over the place with your requirements which range from street (light, small, probably a fast prime) to birds (you mentioned that, which to me means larger body + 100-400mm zoom lens). If you are really just getting back into photography, I'd suggest you get any body that you like from the layout, size and looks (check http://www.camerasize.com for size comparisons, including some lenses) and a single lens to start with. Why not an X-T1 with a kit zoom? The 18-55 is a great lens, not in the same league as the primes, but as zooms go, it's pretty darn good. I might sound a bit harsh, but you have an awful lot of "concerns" for just getting back into photography and not knowing how to decide between very different cameras and lenses. Like the whole thing about ISO dial - have you used that? Sure, it looks great. In real life the implementation Fuji has chosen is a pain in the ass to use. And of course is a single lens with 23mm on an APS-C sensor going to limit you when you include "bird photography" into your requirements. My suggestion right now is: make up your mind what you want to re-start your photography with, check the likelihood of all all the different genres against each other and buy a camera that will work nicely in the environment it's mostly likely used. I have an X100T, an X-T1, an X-E2 and a lot of Fuji lenses. If I only could have one camera and two lenses it would be the X-T1 + XF16 + XF90 (and I'd do my best to sneak in an XF35 f/2 as well). But, given that all I do is travel, people, portrait and a little bit of model photography, I could live with an X100T + TCL-X100 as well. I would just adjust my style to the tool. I wouldn't even attempt to do animal photography (or maybe just animals that don't run away from me) with this though. Now, think about your different requirements, go to Flickr and look at photos, check the ones that match the style you'd like to get into to see what focal length and sensor size they used. If you have a spread from wide angle to tele photo, you need a camera with interchangeable lenses. If you stay within the 28 to 50mm FF equivalent, you could make do with an X100T + WCL + TCL.
  13. You know, that's better than most Americans which don't speak English at all ... ;-)
  14. For the raw conversion in Lightroom: if you don't sharpen, you are leaving yourself at the mercy of some stupid defaults that Adobe has set for sharpening that often do not work for the xtrans sensor. The in-camera conversion does way more than just sharpening, it also adds clarity. Try this for a test on your raw in Lightroom: Sharpening: Amount: pick a value between 25 and 45 Radius: 1 Detail: 100 Mask: 10 Then set clarity to about +10 You should get a result much closer to the out of camera JPEG.
  15. The newest for the X-T1 is 4.21 which reverts the 4.20 changes due to bugs in 4.20. It'll get re-released hopefully soon. This has not made it to other cameras as far as I'm aware.
  16. I went to London three times last year, X-T1 with XF35mm on two occasions (plus XF23 and XF56 which I only needed for a model shoot during one of the trips), X100T with TCL for the other. I'm flying again in Feb to London, Frankfurt and Cologne (Germany), will either take X100T + TCL or just the X-T1 with XF35/2. If you are a worrier about "missed shots" (I'm not, I've never "missed" a shot) I'd take the X-T1 with 16-55 and be done with it.
  17. Regarding Gorilla Pod: I have a GorillaPod Hybrid here and as a tripod it's he biggest piece of shit I have in my photography equipment. And I have quite some bad stuff from old days ... As a "thingie to mount a flash in whacky places" it's actually quite nice. To make it short: I would NEVER EVER (anymore) consider a GorillaPod for the camera. Get something with stiff legs and a ballhead, you're much better off in most situations.
  18. Fuji has sales going about twice a year. The last ended on 12/26 in the US. Wait for the next or buy when you need it.
  19. I like the long eye cup better than the standard. With our without glasses. With glasses the difference isn't really worth it, without (contacts) it is very worth it.
  20. Haven't had that problem yet. I have used the 56 mostly indoors in a badly lit living room (just before the flash fired). I find the 56 a nice compromise between the 35 and the 90. I have all of them now, will see how the 90 turns out once I get to use it a bit more.
  21. I don't think this part is correct. It is only correct for sensors of same MP count, because there you have much larger photo cells on the larger sensor. If you compare a 16MP APS-C with a 36MP FF sensor, the photo cells are roughly the same. The noise might be finer when you frame the same photo, but it then depends on a lot of other factors which one is actually better. And for this: Explain where he is wrong. I know one point, but he is actually mostly right, just from a logical and physical perspective.
  22. Which probably, if I understand that correctly, means that if you strip the thread, you're done. Whole body repair.
  23. It is. I can only think that other manufacturers do use some Loctite or have stronger base plates / longer screws, some other way of affixing them more permanently. Don't know. I leave my Really Right Stuff Plate on all the time. The other cams I have have either permanent base plate / grips attached or aren't used on tripods. I also always check that all the screws are still there when take off the base plate (rarely).
  24. Okay, I'm not surprised then. If you often add and remove plates or the Peak Design ring, you will have put regular tension on the for little screws, basically wiggling them loose over time while not recognizing that they fell out, probably one by one over time. I'm not saying it's your fault, it's just a combination of things happening. These little screws should have some kind of Loctite on them, but that would make it harder to take the body apart. If you use a tripod or one of these slings more often, I can only recommend getting a full ArcaSwiss base plate that stays attached all of the time.
  25. Do you use a BlackRapid (or similar) strap?
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