jerryy

Which software are you trying to use? Also, keep in mind that you can set the Menu >> Connection Setting >> PC Connection Mode >> USB Card Reader. Connect the camera to the mac mini using the usb-c cable, turn the camera on, open Image Capture (Mac HD >> Applications > Image Capture) select your camera, open the various folders to get to the one you want and then transfer the images over to your computer. No other software needed.

First; It is possible you have a bad copy of the lens. It looks like you posted a lot of information, but could you tell us some more? Which body are you using? Is the lens OIS turned on? CL or CH? What happens when you try fully manual as in set ISO, aperture and shutter speed? Do you get focus lock notification when doing so? It sounds like you are trying zone focus, but what are the rest of the zone focus parameter settings? What are your settings for face and eye focus? Are you also using touchscreen focusing? Here is a fast one I took just for example, in a very dark room. X-T30, 190mm, ISO 12800, ss 1/250, f4.8 no noise reduction or sharpening, etc. etc. using Morris' zone settings (written about elsewhere) on CH. Rescaled for internet, just minimal processing only. The subject refuses to stay still. The initial focus point was on the head. I use the regular top button for initial focus and then 'mash' it to get a burst of images. The example I am using is not the best of the burst, just an average shot, The reason to use such bad settings is that the results (focus etc.) are better in better lighting. The reason for the questions, is that the newer bodies have faster af for the same lens than do the older bodies. The zone focus setting also determine how fast the focus point moves, etc.

Your questions are not silly at all, very few of us are born already knowing how everything works. 😀 If you run into some setting combination that you cannot seem to undo using the menus and the ‘reset everything’ menu choice does not help, pull the battery and leave it out, set the camera on the shelf for a few days, all of the setting will go back to their initial, fresh from the factory settings, so that can help you keep your sanity during those times when you are certain your camera has a mind of its own. But do pull it from time to time and examine the contacts on the battery and in the body to make sure they do not get discolored, that would be a sign of a possible bad battery.

I shall try to do better in the future. 🙃

😇 No one told you when you logged in today there would be maths, physics and engineering involved? 😄 😊🙂

That one is more complicated, lots of devices share the 2.4 ghz spectrum, microwave ovens, wireless phones, cell phones, laptops, your neighbor’s devices, etc. Your router chats with the camera and decides the speed to use to balance how much data can be transferred in the available spectrum. You may be able to dedicate a little used channel to the transfer to get higher speeds, but you will have to much around with the router’s software.

If the camera had a fan, it probably would not be a problem to use the 5ghz speeds, but alas and alackaday the small bodies are not built for that. Heat building up on the inside must move across the air gaps to get to the exterior body to then dissipate. Newton’s Law of Heating and Cooling tells us that it will take some time to do that, which means the camera could cook itself to death, so thermal shutdown is used to save it.

Actually, heat is the culprit. Moving data at high speed comes at a price, the camera would go into thermal shutdown after moving one or two images. For me, time is more the issue, it takes a lot of time to move a bunch of raw files, so I put the sd card in a reader and copy them over. I would not mind using the tethered approach to check some test images, but probably would still use the card reader after a session.

One thing to add to what Herco and claude are saying, be careful about confusing correct focus with apparent bad sharpness from low contrast. Even the most well focused, sharp images can look soft if the contrast is low. Use the image processing software to boost the contrast a bit and see what a difference that makes. It used to be that folks would import images into PhotoShop and the first thing they would do is apply their secret sauce remedy of Unsharp Mask filter for all their images to make them look “sharper”. You can get the same effect by just using a bit of local contrast enhancement without needing to have the best focusing sharpest lens money can buy. Of course, good lens technique does help. If you put your camera on a tripod and the images are not much different than the handheld one, try the image processing approach.

p.p.s. Used Fujifilm lenses, Canon and Nikon and Tamron and Sigma and Konica-Minolta and etc. etc. with adapters. Samyang / Rokinon, etc. and other come in x-mounts. If you look, there are plenty of good - great lenses for all kinds of budgets, even mine! 😀

I am glad to hear things are working. Yup, even fast wifi is still slow for moving the large images, the newest latest, greatest version of wifi will eventually make its way into reasonably priced gear so that we can use it. I would dread trying to move the big GFX files from the camera to the computer using b/g/n even ac/ad wifi versions. Did you try using the cable? p.s. Please post more images!

Hello again, I believe that you are correct, now that the hardware is chatting with each other, next up is getting the software talking as well: http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/pc_autosave/appendix.html#a02 What you said earlier made me think of that old saying about treasure maps, ‘it would be nice if they would just say go here, collect the treasure, spend wisely and live happily ever after, but where is the fun in that’? according to the instructions, you are at the stage where you register the software on your computer to the software on the camera.

Give entering the password a try. If your router has any kind of protection turned on WPA2, etc. then trying to connect will seem to work, but ultimately go nowhere. The password part is what stops random passerby folks from joining your networks.

Do you have firewalls turned on in your pc networks? Entering the router’s name and password manually will get the first half going as you have seen, but the computers also have constraints to keep theirselves “safe”. One way to investigate is to turn off the connection to the internet, then lower all of the firewalls, etc. until you are able to connect, then turn the protections back on until you find the problem section, fix it, then turn all of the protections back on and finally reconnect to the internet. p.s. ‘Connect via wps button’ is one of those things that is a good idea, but in practice is dicey.

Bluetooth was used to set up the connection, and wifi was used to then do the heavy lifting. I will try this week to see how it goes for my setup and let you know, but it will be the middle or so of the week.

I am hoping they will update X-Acquire to give the X-T30 the same abilities the X-T3 has.

The (announced) upcoming firmware version 1.40 will let you use the X-T30 as a web cam, so that may also allow at some point, single frame tethering.

You should be able to connect the computer to the camera using the USB cable and pull the images onto the computer: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/connections/computer/index.html http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/menu_setup/connection_setting/index.html the connection mode in the menu settings must be set to USB CARD READER for this to work. That also allows your computer’s os to make copies if you want.

George!!! I will be able to take a look later this week, it is one of those recreational impossibilities I attempt now and then. p.s. Welcome Louise!

George said ...”For transferring pictures from the camera to the computer, I would say the best thing to do is to use a card reader, that is the fastest and most reliable way of doing it.” PC Auto Save worked okay when folks connected their camera to their computer using a cable, but things got weird when the technology moved over to wifi and bluetooth. What George is saying is good advice as far as getting your photos onto your computer in the fastest, least aggravating way possible, while saving the wifi for later this week.

The external one that came with the camera. Leave that one in as much as possible. If you can, get an extra battery or two and keep them all charged. Then when you are out shooting and the battery you are using gets low, swap it with another and continue shooting. The internal battery will keep your settings from disappearing while you swap the batteries, but it is not made for holding those settings long term, for that you need to keep the big battery in the camera. The X-T30 allows you to charge the external batteries while they are in the camera, but it usually faster to use an external charger. You might be able to find a X-T10 (new or used) charger for not much money and use it — the batteries are the same and will work in the same charger. As far as extra batteries goes, lot of folks have their favorites regarding price and capacity, you should be able to find ones from Wasabi Power for reasonable prices — they also sell chargers.

Actually, you need to pretty much leave the big battery in the camera as much as possible. If you leave it out, the internal battery will lose its charge after a while and all of your settings will go back to the fresh from the factory setup. Leaving the big battery out for a while is an alternative way to do a full reset in case things go very wrong. The internal small battery is there to keep the settings while you do battery swaps, etc.

Oh sure. (I put 'open thread' in the first image, usually that means the thread is open to anyone that wants to add to it.) Welcome to the forums, I am looking forward to seeing your images!