pw-pix

My first Fuji was the X-E3, it was bad to hold and I was often accidentally actuating buttons and controls.
I purchased the Fuji metal handgrip for it and found it was significantly improved. Then I disabled the Q button as I was often accidentally pressing it, I also disabled the touch screen.
I still own and use the camera 8 years later and it's been a great photographic tool.
Maybe look into a handgrip and some adjustments to the controls before you jump ship.

Assuming still photography of a general nature;
Aperture priority, set aperture to F8 or F5.6
ISO set to Auto ISO, range base to 6400, minimum shutter speed 1/100 sec
Viewfinder screen set to show picture effect/exposure, histogram, blinking highlights and exposure information
Focus set to AF-S with single point or area with 9 points
Go out, make photos, see what's working and what's not, adjust to your own liking and use case.

When the scene is atypical, "larger areas of light gray/white, like cloudy sky" you need to use your exposure compensation dial to correct the camera's metering choices.
Even if you are shooting raw, you need to help the camera in situations where the calculated exposure isn't what you intend, and isn't correct (quite subjective) for the scene in front of you. Large areas of dark tones will make the camera overexpose as it tries to get the overall scene to a mid grey. Large areas of light tones will make the camera underexpose as tries to get the overall scene to a mid grey.
I turn on "exposure preview" or "picture effect" or whatever the camera model calls it so I can see in the EVF what is happening with exposure, and I also turn on highlight clipping indicators (blinkies/zebras) so that I can see if the highlights are blown out. Using these tools it fairly easy to judge exposure and adjust compensation appropriately.

That is typical for the X-T5, I was having a significantly worse hit rate before the last two firmware updates.
A non-moving scene with a clear, central subject, plenty of light and contrast, single point AF in S mode, completely out of focus (even though it gave focus confirmation in the viewfinder) . That was with modern lenses like the XF 18/1.4 and Viltrox AF 13/1.4. It was occurring more like one in 20 photos.
I still have wildly varaiable results with the XF 150-600 and C mode AF when shooting birds, sometimes it's better to have subject detection (bird) off, sometimes on. It's very frustrating out in the field and has lost me several lifetime opportunities.
I like the 40MP sensor and the results when it works well, but I contemplate selling the X-T5 and purchasing an X-H2S in it's place. That seems more economically sensible than a wholesale switch to another brand for bird photography.
Additionally, the recently publicised tech documents from Fuji about the AF and settings for various subjects and lens types seems to have made my X-T5 and XF 150-600mm slightly to moderately worse for bird photography.

Lens hood not mounted correctly?
Added screw in filters excessively thick?
Accidentally set your editing software to ignore or not apply lens correction settings?
It looks pretty severe, almost like an effect has been applied, like a Holga or toy camera simulation.

Since you noted that different lenses showed the same defect, I'll add another guess, failing shutter.

I went out to photograph birds on the weekend, at the location I'd chosen there was heavy fog.
Here is the sun, using the heavy fog as a solar filter. X-T5 and XF 150-600.

I went out to photograph birds on the weekend, at the location I'd chosen there was heavy fog.
Here is the sun, using the heavy fog as a solar filter. X-T5 and XF 150-600.

Excessive level of long exposure noise reduction? Might make images soft overall.
As Jerry stated above, we need to see sample images to understand if it's camera movement/shake or something else.

I also have a Fuji XT-5. Mine doesn't have these problems. You should send it in for servicing.

You may have to wait for next Easter and try again then.

You may have to wait for next Easter and try again then.

As BobJ notes, it probvably easier and better to stich multiple shots when you process the photos.
Lightroom is easy and provides very good results. I'm sure there are other photo editors that can do it too.
You'll get a bigger and better file from stitching multiple raw files.

I find that I can get it right with a little practice. However, you wil get a superior and more reliable result using stitching

More modern phones with USB-C seem to be able to do backups from camera/card reader to external USB drive with no need for a computer. I haven't tried this personally.
https://petapixel.com/2025/05/11/no-laptop-no-problem-how-to-back-up-photos-in-the-field-with-your-smartphone/

The burst speed of the shutter is set by the CL and CH control on top of the camera, it is unrelated to the focus mode setting on the S C M control. The focus speed is not related to the burst speed setting.
You might have been joking, but your post adds confusion.

Check for dust at the viewfinder‘s sensor and for a misaligned eyepiece. 

Its a bit difficult to answer without seeing the original image file.
Where did you focus? Is that point sharp? Or is the entire image (including the point of focus) soft?
 

Assuming still photography of a general nature;
Aperture priority, set aperture to F8 or F5.6
ISO set to Auto ISO, range base to 6400, minimum shutter speed 1/100 sec
Viewfinder screen set to show picture effect/exposure, histogram, blinking highlights and exposure information
Focus set to AF-S with single point or area with 9 points
Go out, make photos, see what's working and what's not, adjust to your own liking and use case.

None of the XF lenses I own have depth of field scales (so no hyperfocal marking).
The X-T5 is weather-sealed and big enough (mine has the accessory MHG-XT% grip fitted) to use the longer telephoto zooms. I have the XF 70-300 and XF 150-600. I would say it is useful for wildlife photography (I mainly do birds), and roughly equivalent to the Nikon D500 in most situations. AF will be different and possibly inferior in some situations.
The X-T5 will work well for street/landscape/everything that comes up. Fitted with the compact primes it's light enough and compact enough. XF 16/2.8, 18/2, 23/2, 27/2.8, 35/1.4 or 35/2, 50/2 are all compact and light and match well with the X-T5. XF 16/2.8, 23/2, 35/2 are all weather sealed too (as is the later version of the 27/2.8).
I'm unsure about mount adapters and which adapted lenses give AF, EXIF, etc. I have a mechanical only Nikon F to Fuji X adapter, but it's only for an older AF 200/4 micro nikkor so I don't need AF/EXIF, etc.

People looking to get away from Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop subscriptions have been praising Affinity Photo as a viable replacement for Photoshop. It's a perpetual licence instead of a subscription and is affordably priced. Available for Windows and Mac computers (and iPad).
I've not used it, but I have used their Publisher DTP software and it's very good.
 

Here it is translated.
"Hi to everyone,
I'm contacting you to find out if anyone else has a similar problem.
I have a Fujifilm X-S20 and recently updated the software to version 3.10, which includes changes to the AF algorithm. Since the update, I have serious autofocus problems in my Tamron 18-300 mm lens – the camera often has problems with focusing, even on stationary objects.
The strange thing is that the same lens works perfectly on my older X-S10, which has not received any similar AF updates (X-Processor 4). So this apparently seems to be a compliance problem introduced with the latest changes to the AF algorithm in X-Processor 5 cameras.
I have confirmed this in many bodies:
    X-S20 – firmware 3.10 – autofocus problems
    X-T5 – firmware 4.10 – same problem
    X-H2 – firmware 5.10 – includes the same AF update
    X-H2S – firmware 7.10 – also mentions the revision of AF
    X-T50 – software 1.10 – same story
    X-M5 – most likely supplied with the pre-installed new AF system
Cameras with the X-Processor 4 processor (like the X-S10 and X-T4) still work flawlessly with the same lens. This basically confirms that the problem lies in the updated AF logic, not in the hardware itself.
My partner has an X-H2 and now hesitancyly whether to update the firmware because my X-S20 is working so bad now. We have contacted Tamron and Fujifilm technical support, but so far we have not received any real solution.
Does anyone else have to do this? Have you found a bypass or received a response from any of the companies?
If Tamron doesn’t release a software update for this lens, it could become useless on Fuji’s newest body — which is extremely frustrating.
Thank you in advance!"

I didn't notice that on my X-T5.
Have you checked the display/viewfinder settings?
Maybe something was reset by the update. Check what film simulation/profile is used, check brightness, etc.

Those coloured streaks appear to be some sort of lens flare.

Those coloured streaks appear to be some sort of lens flare.