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YOUTA

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Everything posted by YOUTA

  1. i have used that in my android phone to edit phone videos . does the windows version has the capabilities close to or similar to adobe premier pro ?, i haven't tried the windows version of the cyberlink power director , but the android version used to give less quality files compared to premier pro in my pc ,also didn't had many types of video exporting formats , still in android i always use it to do quick edit's for posting online etc.. but is the windows version good for professional work ? . please let me know , have a nice day ahead !
  2. i think imagining how the result should be before starting to edit ,will speed up the process !. it's like the choice theory "when we have lot of choices ,we will take lot of time to choose the perfect one and when trying to choose fast with lot's of choices we end up not satisfied. but when there is less choices we choose the perfect one quick and we will be fully satisfied" , it's a theory talked about in business classes often . similarly when you start editing without fixed imagination of the resulting image , you will automatically try different looks and edits to see which looks better etc... and since you can make a image to look in a thousand different ways, you are having lot of choices in your brain ,so that makes the entire process extremely slow and since you are a perfectionist ,it will take even more time to decide the way of edits to finally get the look you liked from the picture !😇. so my personal idea is imagine the resulting image before even opening the editing software , i imagine before taking the shot itself , actually due to that i take less shot's , because i think if it will look good before capturing ! ,also due to this thinking , i know what to do exactly while editing , since i don't have much to do tooo , since i was aiming for that look before taking the shot . besides you still have the raw files , to experiment with in your free time for different looks ! if you ever felt not satisfied later !. the longest time i spent editing an image is 30 minutes , also i don't edit often , i used to say myself that i am purist etc.. and use the jpeg from camera directly , until a few months ago , only recently i started tweaking the saturation in a image, even when i used to edit pictures for others since 2013. so i hope this helps ! have a nice day ahead ! and wish you good luck in speedy editing !
  3. i understood the count down you meant !. i checked and actually haven't found the setting to make the countdown disappear and reappear . it's the long exposure timer mode you were talking about "T" . a suggestion ! , have you tried resetting your camera setting's !. to see if the problem is fixed after that or not !. please let me know after trying that . have a nice day ahead !
  4. oh i see . let me check .i will let you know as soon as i find out !. meanwhile , can you quickly capture the screen where , the countdown is supposed to be seen , with your phone etc.. and post it so i can easily pinpoint where i am supposed to check . thank you !
  5. " menu>shooting settings>self-timer ". i hope this helps ! ,have a nice day ahead !
  6. https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/fujifilm-vs-fujifilm/x-t1-vs-x-t2/ if you are fixed on choosing between xt2 and xt1 only , then xt2 is the better choice , but if you have a bit more budget then xt3 is significantly better than xt2 and xt1 . also you could actually get better autofocus , faster operating speed etc... than xt2 and xt1 on xt30 and xs10. but with a slight reduction in recording time limit for in camera recording . since autofocus is really beneficial for video , i would pick up a xt 30 rather than xt1 or xt2 ,even for video and if i have a slightly higher budget , then absolutely xt-3 . i hope this helps !. but in the end , buy the one you feel more attracted to , the one you have a internal feeling about it . the gear which you love will let you shoot more regardless of the superiority in its specifications . but me personally would always go for the newest and better one's and if i have only the budget for xt-2 i would get a xt-30 for better autofocus . have a nice day ahead to you !
  7. are you using apple charger ? , a few chargers like apple charger's are not temporarily working after a firmware update to camera and a few of PD chipset in chargers .so try different USB c-pd charger's like the one's from motorola and samsung which is available in amazon for a very low price . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead ! aukrey 20w usb pd charger 12$ anker 32w 21$ anker 60w 34$ motorola 27w (i use this one) 24$
  8. just click on the "view mode" button near the evf , to toggle the lcd on and off . clicking on the button switches between "lcd only" , "evf only" , "evf+lcd" etc.. i hope this helps ! . have a nice day ahead !.
  9. i am glad you shared your experience ! thanks ,if the subject is in frame always , zone autofocus works better i guess, from my experience in shooting moving subjects, so test that mode too . i hope this helps ! . have a nice day ahead !
  10. i think it's better for you to consult the fujifilm service center ASAP . this is manufacturing defect mostly , in part of software mostly ! , but since it's a manufacturing defect , it will be fixed freely . so visit a authorized fujifilm service center soon . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead !
  11. if you don't need a evf then definitely go for xa-7 , it has sensor stabilization and newer features. so only advantage is evf in xt-100 ,in every other scenario xa-7 is better than xt-100 . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead !
  12. set evf brightness to +5 to increase the brightness of evf , thereby you can see more clearly in sunlight through evf. also set lcd brightness to +5 to get maximum brightness from lcd in sunlight . negative values means lower brightness thus darker image , so always go up the positive value's up to the max (+5) ,if you still have difficulty in seeing in sunlight . then jerryy's method will work . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead !
  13. actually most cameras in this class can only do the same time limit with 4k dci .but doesn't mean the shooting time can't be extended . people who used to have sony a6xxx series do that a lot , you can see lot of diy cooling option to extent the shooting time . same way when connected to a external monitor ,fujifilm xt-30 recording time restrictions are removed ,so as long as you can keep the camera cool you can keep shooting continuously. so discussing and sharing ways to prevent overheating can be extremely helpful for many who like to shoot for longer periods continuously ,without using a different camera for that purpose , when fujifilm xt 30 has 4k dci down sampled from 6k in f-log. the people who vlog or has to use the camera as a webcam for more time, that sort of people mainly . anyway thanks for sharing your opinions. and don't worry about the reviews ,there is only a few cameras which is small as this and has many features inside. have a nice day ahead !.
  14. as per my guess you have put photometry to "spot" ,so it changes whenever you move the focus point also when camera is moved (since the focus point is moved with it and it changes according to the lighting where the focus point is present). also in lenses with variable aperture , the light changes when zooming in and out .but if it happens with prime etc.. then you should reset your camera settings , to factory default and then check again without tweaking any settings ,at fixed iso, shutter speed, andaperture . only these 3 make it fixed using the dials , don't change anything else . and if you are still getting the same issue even then. then i advise you to take your lens and camera to a fujifilm service center and have them checked , soon (some products may have manufacturing defects, happens with all companies and brands , but if it's the cause , they will replace or repair it for free) .i hope this helps , have a nice day ahead !
  15. dear friend , it was a year ago ,he asked for suggestion's .so now this topic's relevance is only to share solutions to shoot extended periods or to cooldown very quickly . also have you noticed that he already mentioned about stopping and shooting etc.. and he was specifically mentioning that he was looking for a solution to overheating ,rather than how to plan shots . anyway ,i am sorry if you find my previous reply against your opinion . but if you notice , i requested you to share your knowledge too and never opposed your opinion . stay happy always . have a nice day !
  16. you could also get viltrox speedbooster version 2 and buy some canon ef mount lenses ,there are some cheap options in the non weather resistant series ,also you can get second hand , so by using fullframe lenses with a speed booster , you can get a extra stop of light , thereby get more bokeh and ability to shoot in lower light situations . you can easily find different options in the lenses which works with the viltrox "speedbooster" for the same price , maybe a slightly more . but you'll like the results you'll get !
  17. you're absolutely correct ! . for artifacts and worms etc.. there is a difference between lightroom and capture one . but sharpness is indeed based on hardware , even the comparison wasn't fair ,it was between aps-c and full frame sensor , that alone make a difference . also fujifilm aims for filmic looks which is softer and canon 5d is tuned for professional work ,so it will be tuned for sharpness , same with lenses . anyway you can just increase the "structure" slider in capture one , to make the pictures from fuji a bit sharp and crisp . but as herco said the two cameras are designed differently for different purpose and idea .besides fujifilm gfx system is the one designed for all sorts of professional works. i hope this helps. have a nice day .
  18. Dear friend , this post was about how to shoot continuously for a long time or to shoot repeatedly without much time between each shot to cooldown . i understand that you're able to shoot less than 10 minute and cover the whole event , but not everyone is skilled as you ,most need to shoot excess and later cut out the unwanted scenes , so they want ways to record as long as possible continuously, if possible without record time limits , so if you have any suggestions , please share , even the ways to plan the shot's , . have a nice day !
  19. use any fast chargers with "USB-PD" capabilities , the one's with usb-pd capabilities can output various voltage and ampere according to the device connected , so you can charge the camera without worrying about excess voltage and in the fastest time . there is lowest priced ones from Motorola 27w usbc-pd charger and for a bit more from other brands . but don't buy the ones with cheap build quality ,buy branded ,from any durable brands ,phone chargers etc.. like the one i mentioned . or you can even use powerbanks with usbc-pd capabilities and usb 3.1 cable. i will share a few links for lowest price options. motorola usb c-pd 27w charger samsung usb c-pd 25w charger i hope this helps , have a nice day ahead !
  20. i think you posted this in the wrong section , please post it in fujifilm xt-30 section . also many others reported the same issue with fujifilm xt-30 . not working as a webcam even after version 1.40 update , i haven't heard anyone found a solution yet ,or haven't heard from fujifilm team (like a tutorial video on how to use fujifilm xt-30 and other cameras which got similar firmware update recently as a webcam) . so if i found any solution or if i hear from any sources on possible way to make it work ,i'll surely let you know . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead to you !.
  21. i saw a guy using two raspberry pi fan , which has very less noise , placed in the gap between screen and body to cool the camera ! . you'll have to keep screen lifted from the body , but anyway while recording you'll do it often for viewing purpose !. i think that guy's method will buy you some extra recording time ,or quicker cooling time between recordings . also you can combine this with small cpu cooling techniques , like copper heatsink (tiny version usually used on raspberry pi ). or small water cooling block (you can see those in diy videos and can buy it from amazon etc) combination of these according to your creativity and use of external monitor together can let you take video for quite a long time in a single go ! . i hope this helps . have a nice day ahead to you !
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